replacing load shaft bushings.

[mb58]

Load shaft bushings on a JD 4020. It's been a long time since I changed them out and I'm having trouble remembering what it entailed. Seems like I had to drive the bushings out. Stick some kinda rod through from one side and drive to opposite side out. Is that right? Or are they sitting in a recessed hole like the seals are?

 

[tim s]

Drain the oil, remove the lower 3pt arms pull the draw bar almost out (I use it to kinda balance things for a bit)remove the end caps, push the shaft out, now pull the draw bar on out letting the A frame swing down,be ready for it,,it can put a dent in your head, then pry the seals out, then drive the bushings out from the other side of each one, I use a nice squared off 1" rod, I like to use the new style bushings with the o-ring in them,Plus the original seal, be sure to shim the A frame to keep the side to side movement to a minimum...

 

[Tx Jim]

I'll add to what Tim stated be sure to put the L/D control lever in "D" before removing the shaft

 

[JDBert]

I'll add that I always put in a new shaft to, but like tim said to- the side to side motion is pretty critical, I got to do my 4620 twice because I didnt do the side to side shiming the first time and it ripped the seals out after 1 fall of use.

 

[Jim Knapp]

I use a floor jack to lower and raise the "A-frame" or "wishbone".

Drive the old bushings out from the opposite side. A old loadshaft with the end cut or ground to a 90 degree edge is what I use.

Check the bushings in the wishbone. If the tractor has seen a lot of use, they may be worn.

Replace the bushings in the housing and the seals.

Last time I replaced them, a local Deere mechanic recommended coating the seals with black Permatex. Sometime in the past 40 years someone may have damaged the seat with a chisel when removing the seals.

When you swing the wishbone back in place, shim it so there is no side to side movement.

Jim