Replacing Oil??

[DonTheNewby]

Hello Gentlemen,

I have 51 Ford 8n and needed to take the Hub Bolt and Assembly apart as the seal was cracked and leaking and the Oil? inside was really thick.

What type of oil goes back in there??

I also removed the Steering Gear Housing Assembly to clean it and replace gaskets.... same thing... really thick oil.

Same oil as above or something different??

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Any UTF that meets the Ford spec M2C41D will work fine in the rear end/pump/trans your N tractor. Just read the label on the container.

I use the UTF from TSC year around here in VA.

You will find the UTF to work a lot better below 32* F than 80/90 w oil.


See tips 3 & 4

Do NOT overfill it. If you overfill it, the excess will leak past the wheel seals and get on your brakes.

Unless the sump is totally clean, a dry sump will only take about 4.5 gallons. Remove the lower bolt on the inspection plate, add 4.5 gallons and come back the
next day to see if it is dripping. Remember, it takes a long time for that oil to get back there.

Use 90w gear oil in the steering box. Not grease. Those gears do not like grease. If the oil leaks out, replace the seals.
75 Tips

 

[DonTheNewby]

(quoted from post at 16:07:56 06/08/21) Any UTF that meets the Ford spec M2C41D will work fine in the rear end/pump/trans your N tractor. Just read the label on the container.

I use the UTF from TSC year around here in VA.

You will find the UTF to work a lot better below 32* F than 80/90 w oil.


See tips 3 & 4

Do NOT overfill it. If you overfill it, the excess will leak past the wheel seals and get on your brakes.

Unless the sump is totally clean, a dry sump will only take about 4.5 gallons. Remove the lower bolt on the inspection plate, add 4.5 gallons and come back the
next day to see if it is dripping. Remember, it takes a long time for that oil to get back there.

Use 90w gear oil in the steering box. Not grease. Those gears do not like grease. If the oil leaks out, replace the seals.
75 Tips

Thank you! I'll pull up tips.

 

[Abbby]

Hate to stir the pot but if you have older seals and older pump you may not be happy with the thin UTF that meets the Ford spec M2C41D. potential leaks and knocking pump. I use the 80/90w in -20F without issue. Just need to let it warm up a little which is good at that temp anyways. My 2 cents worth

 

[DonTheNewby]

(quoted from post at 19:17:22 06/08/21) Hate to stir the pot but if you have older seals and older pump you may not be happy with the thin UTF that meets the Ford spec M2C41D. potential leaks and knocking pump. I use the 80/90w in -20F without issue. Just need to let it warm up a little which is good at that temp anyways. My 2 cents worth

I'm replacing as many seals/gaskets as I can but the older pump... didn't think about that.

The original plan to clean it up and put some paint on it to stop it if from rusting more - went out the door when I realized it had too many leaks to paint, so now... it's become a restoration.

And I really have no idea what I'm doing BUT its coming along nicely with everyone's help. Thank you.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 06:59:47 06/09/21)

(quoted from post at 19:17:22 06/08/21) Hate to stir the pot but if you have older seals and older pump you may not be happy with the thin UTF that meets the Ford spec M2C41D. potential leaks and knocking pump. I use the 80/90w in -20F without issue. Just need to let it warm up a little which is good at that temp anyways. My 2 cents worth

I'm replacing as many seals/gaskets as I can but the older pump... didn't think about that.

The original plan to clean it up and put some paint on it to stop it if from rusting more - went out the door when I realized it had too many leaks to paint, so now... it's become a restoration.

And I really have no idea what I'm doing BUT its coming along nicely with everyone's help. Thank you.

Think about this.

• [*:39a19db33a]Both of the Ford oil references mebntioned in this thread are incorrect and should be M2C-134D.[*:39a19db33a]The Ford M4864A gear oil originally specified in the Ford 8N owners manual, the superseding Ford M2C-134D oil, and the generic UTF equivalents are ALL grade 80 gear oils. They ALL have the same viscosity when warm and working in the tractor.[/list:39a19db33a] The difference is that thanks to improvements in refining and blending technologies the M2C-134D and equivalents have a much higher viscosity index meaning they don't get overly thick when they cool down. They flow and pump better at ambient and low winter temperatures but maintain their viscosity better than conventional gear oil which thins out much more at operating temperatures.
  
  TOH

 

[DonTheNewby]

(quoted from post at 06:39:34 06/09/21)

(quoted from post at 06:59:47 06/09/21)

(quoted from post at 19:17:22 06/08/21) Hate to stir the pot but if you have older seals and older pump you may not be happy with the thin UTF that meets the Ford spec M2C41D. potential leaks and knocking pump. I use the 80/90w in -20F without issue. Just need to let it warm up a little which is good at that temp anyways. My 2 cents worth

I'm replacing as many seals/gaskets as I can but the older pump... didn't think about that.

The original plan to clean it up and put some paint on it to stop it if from rusting more - went out the door when I realized it had too many leaks to paint, so now... it's become a restoration.

And I really have no idea what I'm doing BUT its coming along nicely with everyone's help. Thank you.

Think about this.

• [*:f1033c843e]Both of the Ford oil references mebntioned in this thread are incorrect and should be M2C-134D.[*:f1033c843e]The Ford M4864A gear oil originally specified in the Ford 8N owners manual, the superseding Ford M2C-134D oil, and the generic UTF equivalents are ALL grade 80 gear oils. They ALL have the same viscosity when warm and working in the tractor.[/list:f1033c843e] The difference is that thanks to improvements in refining and blending technologies the M2C-134D and equivalents have a much higher viscosity index meaning they don't get overly thick when they cool down. They flow and pump better at ambient and low winter temperatures but maintain their viscosity better than conventional gear oil which thins out much more at operating temperatures.
  
  TOH

• 
  
  Just realized I didn't respond to this, sorry. Thanks for the information!