Replacing PTO shaft

[jmeyert4a]

Hi again.

The old PTO output shaft is pretty worn as is the old over-run clutch that came with the tractor so
I've ordered new ones (upgraded to the 1 3/8 shaft). It LOOKS to be a pretty straight forward R&R
project, but I thought I'd write and ask if there might be any surprises in store?

Thanks in advance...

Jim

 

[Den N Ms]

Jmeyert4a ,I just hope for your sake that the PTO shaft comes right out when you unbolt it.Hope that the shaft splines inside are not twisted at the pump and it slides right out.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Dump the nose in the ditch, about a 24/30 drop and you should not loose any fluid.

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 20:38:33 09/27/21) Dump the nose in the ditch, about a 24/30 drop and you should not loose any fluid.

nless the front trany seal is bad and then the oil may end up in clutch housing! fluid is probably due replacement anyway! good time to get new fresh oil in it! hOW'S LIFE UP IN THE HIGH COUNTRY?

 

[kossuth]

(quoted from post at 16:55:23 09/27/21) Jmeyert4a ,I just hope for your sake that the PTO shaft comes right out when you unbolt it.Hope that the shaft splines inside are not twisted at the pump and it slides right out.

hats about the biggest possibility which isnt super common but happens time to time. Tractors that have lived on a bushhog much of their lives seem to be the most prone to this.

 

[jmeyert4a]

Thanks, I'LL hope so too!

 

[jmeyert4a]

Thank you for that tip! I JUST changed out all of the gear oil a couple months back, I'd hate to lose it!

I don't have a good ditch handy, but could I back it up onto a couple of six-bys, or would it need to be higher?

 

[Den N Ms]

Jmeyert4a, Just drain the small drain plug under the rear end in to a clean drain pan so you can save the new oil and put it back in.You won't have to drain it all just the rear end to change the PTO.As a note some of the after market PTOs had a over sized bearing retainer that would not fit into the rear end housing as the retainer was to large in diameter.(just be aware of that so you don;t force and break things) Hopefully all of them are corrected by now.

 

[Smokeonthewater]

After you back up onto those 6x6's, take the front wheels off and set the hubs on the ground..

Plan to work reasonably fast so as little oil as possible runs past your transmission input seal

 

[Den N Ms]

Smokeonthewater,Why would you do all of that Blocks,removing wheels ,and chance of oiling the clutch? When you could just drain a gallon or so of oil from the small rear end drain plug.Don't make much sense to me.

 

[Smokeonthewater]

I wouldn't, I would use my forklift to pick the back of the tractor up enough to do the job and then block it there with the wood cribbing I keep on hand. Every time I drive down the hill to my backyard I'm tilting further than that, for longer than it takes to swap shafts assuming it isn't stuck...

 

[Krosati]

I just did this about a month ago. I didn't want to run adapters with the ORC.
I just backed it onto my trailer and left the front wheels on the ground.
Breaking the seal and getting the bearing housing to pop loose was the hardest but once that was loose and i was able to get a screw driver behind it, the rest was easy.

 

[jmeyert4a]

THANK YOU... (Sorry, I just saw your post ;-)

I took the advice of the guy(s) who said, just drop the front wheels in the ditch. (We have a perfect
one, right in front of our house along the road.) It turned out to be a really simple job.

Thanks to ALL who replied.

Jim