Replacing radiator core - any tips?

[Kurt_JDB]

I am planning to replace the radiator core of my 1938 unstyled B. This will be my first time doing this. I would appreciate any tips or ideas to make the job go easier.

1. I received the new core in the mail today. One thing I noticed right off is that the flanges are not perfectly flat. I assume they will flatten out as the radiator is bolted together, but laying a straight edge on the flange, it is curved maybe 1/8 inch. Any comments?

2. Another thing I noticed is that there are some globs of solder on the flanges that in my opinion would keep the assembly from sealing. I am thinking of filing it flat. Is this typical of a new core these days?

3. The gaskets that came with the core are a thick paper material. I have read some folks use cork gaskets. Any opinions?

4. What would be the best sealant to use?

Thanks for any advice.

Kurt

 

[1949ABG]

I haven't bought a core lately, so I can't comment on the condition of the one you got.

I personally don't like cork gaskets. Too loose they leak, too tight, they're ruined. Paper ones are a lot less prone to disaster.

Just make sure you have a good high temperature gasket sealer that is antifreeze resistant.

 

[Mark-Ia]

A lot of the guys restoring the big gas prairie breaking tractors use grease on the gaskets for sealer..

 

[F-I-T]

>>>1. I received the new core in the mail today. One thing I noticed right off is that the flanges are not perfectly flat. I assume they will flatten out as the radiator is bolted together, but laying a straight edge on the flange, it is curved maybe 1/8 inch. Any comments?

It will get flat as you draw down the flanges and bars.

>>>2. Another thing I noticed is that there are some globs of solder on the flanges that in my opinion would keep the assembly from sealing. I am thinking of filing it flat. Is this typical of a new core these days?

Have not seen that myself. Get them as flat as you can with a file should do the trick.

>>>3. The gaskets that came with the core are a thick paper material. I have read some folks use cork gaskets. Any opinions?

I have used the neoprene as well as the paper. Both worked well for me. Getting the large pits filled that are probably present in the top and bottom tank surfaces is the trick. I fill with JB weld if nasty, and sit weighted on wax paper on a nice flat Formica counter top, then dress them flat with a file. Or...lap them on a nice flat piece of concrete. It gets them amazingly flat and clean.

>>>4. What would be the best sealant to use?

Permatex #3. You can clean up any equeeze out wiht lacquer thinner.

 

[jdal]

Kurt,I've done a GP and a H, not too bad a job. The paper works fine, had to make my own for GP. I used permatex RV sealent. The straps pull the flanges flat. Yes, I'd file down the solder globs, and of course tighten from center out. Good luck.

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Thanks for all the good comments. FIT, I like your idea for filling the pits with JB Weld, now I just have to arrange to have the wife out of the house for a few hours so I can use those nice big flat granite countertops.....

Kurt

 

[MBdeere]

The hardest thing about about doing a radiator is getting all the old bolts and studs out. It will make you an expert quickly. On that job heat is your best friend. Take it slow. Use PB Blaster. Tell us how many bolts broke off. Lots of good post on this site on how to remove broken bolts. Good Luck, Have Fun.

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Will do, I'll keep a count. Any recommendations on bolt kits? LOL.

How 'bout getting the pipes out of the top and bottom tank? I've made new pipes to replace the corroded ones. Thought I would try a little heat, candle wax and a pipe wrench.

Kurt

 

[FactoryFarmer]

Don't even use gaskets they don't seal worth a darn with them. The last couple I've done I just used the good blue silicone and have had no problems.

 

[elkcagg]

I agree with factoryfarmer.....don"t use the gaskets. Last radiator I did I used this foam that comes on a roll and peel off a sticky paper like a band-aid. Cut to length plus some extra, apply and trim off excess with a utility knife on the edges. I got mine from a radiator shop in Pine City Minn. and I"m sure others use it too. It works awesome.

 

[lockrotor]

The last one I did I had to re-drills the holes on the flanges of the radiator. They where off by as much as 1/2 hole on one of the holes. So pre fit will make it alot easier. As for the pipe to be replaced, cut it off next to the radiator casting then take a saw all and cut toward the threads on opposite side to each other. just enough to cut the pipe. if you go into the threads a little it will not make a difference. Then take a hammer and cold chisel and it will come out real easy in two pieces.

 

[Sidekick]

I used NAPA aircraft sealer on mine. Seems to work pretty well. Getting the old one apart will be your biggest problem. If you don't have a bolt kit already, get one. I would spray it with PB blaster once or twice a day for a few days before I even tried taking it apart. I was lucky in that I only had to drill out three bolts on mine. Those old radiators are heavy and awkward and I rigged up a sling to use with my cherry picker which made handling it a whole lot easier.

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Sidekick,

Yeah, I"ve been spraying her down with Blaster off and on for a month now.

Do you have a place in mind to get a bolt kit? Pat Browning used to sell what he described as a kit with all the right length bolts, but they are not on his web site any more since he passed away. I see that Davenport tractor has a kit for sale.

I thought I might try to take it apart in place. I don"t have a cherry picker, but I do have a hydraulic lift table. to help me out.

Thanks for the advice.

Kurt

 

[Sam Vastano]

I used a torch on the bolts before I tried to take them out. Little bit of candle wax next to them as they cool and they come right out. Candle melt and get sucked into the threads and acts like a lubricant. As for gaskets I used them but I also used permatex Ultra Copper on my 37 B.

 

[Kris A NC]

Kurt
Never used their Kit, but I have done a lot of business with Sharps. Melanie is great. You might give them a try...

Kris A NC
Bolt Kit

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Thanks, Kris.

I"ll check "em out

Kurt

 

[sgtbull]

sandblast the tanks, inside and out. Then get a can of REDCOAT gas tank sealer and paint the entire inside of the top and bottom tanks. The top tank can be hard to get completely, due to the baffle, but you can seal it off and then slosh the sealant around inside, then drain the rest out. It will kill the rusting of the inside of the tanks so you don't end up w/ flaking rust blocking your tubes, and the tank won't rust through.
I've done several tractors that way with long lasting good results. I have an unstyled b I did that to over 10 yrs ago, and its still perfect inside.

 

[Kurt_JDB]

sgtbull, thanks for the tip.
I was thinking of trying FIT's electrolysis on the tanks. I am planning to put some electrodes in the tanks. What do you think?

Kurt

 

[Sidekick]

I don't really see how you're going to take it apart in place. You'll pretty much [i:abbb61a958]have[/i:abbb61a958] to pull it all the way out and lay it on a table or something. It'll be a lot easier to contend with anyway. The bolt kit at Davenport will work. There's lot's of them out there. Changing the radiator core is pretty straightforward but it is an awkward and heavy hassle.

 

[F-I-T]

(quoted from post at 06:05:00 07/25/12) sgtbull, thanks for the tip.
I was thinking of trying FIT's electrolysis on the tanks. I am planning to put some electrodes in the tanks. What do you think?

Kurt

Kurt, an e-tank will work, but it works better if you make electrodes that "fit" down into the recessed area. You can put some nylon screen around the electrode if you can't get to isolated properly. Now, that said, I grit blast mine since the material is so bulky and there is little concern of excessive erosion.

 

[Mike Aylward]

Mark, I have used paper gaskets and sealed them with gun grease for years. Never had one leak yet. Many times the paper gasket gets dried out and needs the grease to soften it a little and seal. Also, if a paper gasket has shrank (which they can do) I soak them in gasoline for a little while. Water will work, too, but a water soaked gasket will not allow sealer to work well. So I use gas which won't affect the grease I put on them (or other sealer such as #3 Permatex). If you use silicone use it SPARINGLY. Mike

 

[IowaJohn]

Kurt, I used anti-sieze on the bolts when reinstalling, probably never take it apart again but who knows. Correct Connection could be a place for your bolt kit. I did a 50 and the " 37 B" I used paper on 1 and the other cork, paper is easier,I let the cork set awhile before putting together so the permatex would hold it in place. Both got No. 3 permatex because my tanks were pitted. To get them apart use alot of patience, Blaster and if you"ve got heat it sure helps.

 

[Pete76NY]

We have used the paper gaskets with no issue, but we always coat them with NAPA airplane gasket sealer that you brush on, never had a problem. Yes I would smooth out any solder globs that look like they might affect sealing.
If you get lucky enough to get all the bolts out without breaking them, which you probabaly will if you have been hitting them with PB Blaster or the like, then you have 1/3 of the battle won. Every one we have replaced has required elongating the holes in the flanges to slots to match the bolt pattern on the tank...like alot of aftermarket stuff they ALMOST line up! The correct police can KMA, but I replace every darned square nut I find with a good ol' hex head...save alot of wrenchin' time using a socket!
The BIG thing we have found is that the tubes in MOST after market radiators are significantly smaller than the originals...with coolant all is not equal, you really do get what you pay for even though it's all green...with Thermo Siphon systems we have found that discount coolant just doesn't flow well in the smaller tubes...Prestone makes a BIG difference, well worth the extra few bucks!

 

[Kurt_JDB]

Thanks Pete.
I assumed that all coolants were pretty much the same except for the anti-corrosion package. Does the Prestone contain something other than Ethylene Glycol with better heat transfer characteristics?

I hope to get started this weekend. I"ll post pictures.

Kurt

 

[Pete76NY]

I don"t know the reason: 1st one we ever did was our "48 A. When we started her up she got real warm, we called the guy in our club who now has a small aftermarket and used parts and used parts biz who sold us the radiator. He was a service tech/Mgr at a JD dealership for years. He told us to use Prestone in anything that doesn"t have a pressure system. Out came the WalMart brand and in went the Prestone...cool as a cucumber ever since. Other stuff works fine in all our water pump tractors!

 

[Jndrgreen]

I recently overhauled the radiator on my B. It was trying to say the least. After getting all the rusted bolts out and several trips to the machine shop, it leaked.

My core edges were bent also, but I don"t think that will be a problem as mine were too. It straightens out when you tighten it all up.

Use antiseize on all the bolts, make sure all bolts fit tight and run a tap into everything before you put it all together. Make sure you can turn every bolt by hand all the way down.

I used Gasket shellac on my paper gaskets and once I got all the bolts to hold, it doesn"t leak a drop.

Good Luck and have patience....

 

[IowaJohn]

Kurt, Something that hasn't been mentioned is that there is front and back to a core. The fins are sloped. Not that it"s a big deal on a restoration but the fins need to be lower on the fan side so that the dust will get sucked thru and not get hung up in the radiator. John

 

[Kurt_JDB]

John,

Thanks for that tip. I was wondering if the radiator core had a front and a back. I"ll look for that.

Kurt