" Was the guy at the shop incorrect saying if i didn't loosen that screw the timing would not change???"
If you did not tell him you replaced & regapped the points, then he was correct. But, once you change the point gap, you have changed the timing. That's why you always set the point gap BEFORE you set the timing.
Gap, dwell & timing are all directly related. If you have less gap, you get more dwell. As the gap decreases, timing retards.
If you set the points correctly, and the timing is correct, then spark will occur when # 1 is at TDC on the frontmount.
First, check your firing order. It's 1-2-4-3, CCW. It's very easy to cross 2 & 3 at the cap & 3 & 4 on the head.
Yes, it has a governor & no, that's not your problem.
But, if you want to check it, see tip # 14.
Pull the distributor, recheck the gap & set the timing.
There is no donut gasket at between the manifold and exhaust pipe. That's not your problem.
But, if you want to fix it........
This method of attaching the exhaust pipe to the manifold was developed for the Model A Ford in 1927. If you pay attention to what you are doing, it will not leak. You do not need tinfoil or gasket sealer to prevent leaks. Use the correct parts & install them correctly & it will not leak.
Make sure you are using the correct clamp. An automotive muffler c-clamp will not work. You need a clamp made for the N. If you have the correct clamp, it has a top & bottom. Make sure you have the clamp on correctly; check out tip # 8, below. All clamps are not created equally; the correct clamp should have 9/16 brass nuts.
Slide the tail pipe into the hanger clamp & then place the end of the exhaust pipe against the manifold. Look at it! Remember, the pipe will most always fit snugly to the OEM manifold w/o any problem, but a replacement manifold will likely not be the exact same size as the OEM manifold, so you will have some work to do. If it does not mate all the way around, put a broomstick down the pipe & into the manifold & gently bend the pipe until both surfaces mate snugly & squarely. If the exhaust pipe flange is bent, you will never get a good seal; check it out. The clamp is not a gasket; if the pipe & manifold do not mate tightly, it will leak. Do not try & hold the exhaust pipe against the manifold w/ your hand & while you tighten the clamp. Get out your floor jack & a block of wood; put the jack under the pipe to hold it tightly against the manifold. Confirm that the pipe is mated squarely to the manifold; if it is crooked, it will not seat. With the pipe jacked snugly and squarely to the manifold use your ? lb ball peen hammer and tap the pipe tight to the manifold flange all the way around. Its soft metal and this will only take about a minute. Tighten the clamp. (Don't get carried away w/ the jack or you will bend the pipe. Or, overtighten the clamp & snap it in two. BTDT). Put equal pressure on the clamp by tightening one side a few turns then a few turns on the other. Do not expect the clamp sides to touch; about 1/8? gap is normal.
When the clamp is tightened equally on both sides, remove the jack. If the pipe flops around, start over because you put the clamp on upside down. (Remember tip # 8)
Post back w/ results or more questions.
75 Tips