Rewiring '46 2N

[JohnnyHville]

Existing 12V conversion, with EI. Question is, with the EI coil, do I still need the resistor block (under left dash plate)?


I am adding a fuse box because of some other "accessories" & implements. Would be a convenient place for it if the block is not needed.

 

[R Geiger]

Short answer, Yes it is still needed.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Front distributor, right?

What is an "EI coil"?
75 Tips

 

[scopecat1]

according Pertronix you don't need a resistor I have ask them.

 

[Royse]

"What is an "EI coil"?"

That was my question too. If it's a square can coil, then the ballast
resistor is still needed. If it has a round can coil conversion along
with the EI and it's a true 12V coil, then no, not needed.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Pertronix said no resistor needed with a front coil? EI didn't change the internal resistance of that coil.
75 Tips

 

[scopecat1]

I presume the EI coil would be the automotive type, I used Pertronix 91247xt ignitor II the # 6 instruction sentence says remove all external resistors to achieve optimum performance.

 

[Farmer Dan]

(quoted from post at 14:53:09 01/02/19) Existing 12V conversion, with EI. Question is, with the EI coil, do I still need the resistor block (under left dash plate)?


I am adding a fuse box because of some other "accessories" & implements. Would be a convenient place for it if the block is not needed.

The resistor's sole purpose in life is to protect the coil. Unless you change to a round can coil you will need the resistor. When I rewired my 9N I added a fuse block directly below where the resistor mounts. Had to drill and tap a new hole for it. Easy to do since it was aluminum.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" I presume ??"

It could be.

but sometimes precision in the English language is needed.


Round coil, side coil or as you said, even automotive coil would have precisely communicated that he no longer had the front coil.


So rather than presume, I asked for clarification.
75 Tips

 

[scopecat1]

I read some literature saying farmers would remove the resistor in a effort to get more power to the coil for starting but the point life was quit short if I was going to remove the resistor after running the engine awhile I would check the coil for over heating if it over heated I'd reinstall the resistor.

 

[Farmer Dan]

(quoted from post at 07:08:48 01/03/19) I read some literature saying farmers would remove the resistor in a effort to get more power to the coil for starting but the point life was quit short if I was going to remove the resistor after running the engine awhile I would check the coil for over heating if it over heated I'd reinstall the resistor.

The points really do not care if they are supplied with 6 volts, 12 volts or 110 volts. (example well pumps have points in them) The square coil does care. The way it was explained to me is the wire used in the square coil will not hold up to a lot of amperage. Therefor a resistor is needed to step it down and keep the wiring from over heating or burning up. Hope some one corrects me if I'm wrong but I do not believe I am. The newer round coils are built with heavier gauge wire or an internal resistor.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" but the point life was quit short "

That's not correct. The resistor has nothing to do with point life. Points and condensers in these tractors operate just fine on 6 or 12 volts. If they did not, there would be separate part numbers for points and condensers based upon ignition voltage.


" I would check the coil for over heating"


Really, there is no need to check it. If it is a front coil, it WILL overheat w/o the oem ballast resistor. It's not guess work. It's science.
75 Tips

 

[JohnnyHville]

Thank you all, gentlemen. Sorry on the wording confusion.

Yes, EI coil means the round can coil that is used with the EI conversion. Converted this years ago because I got sick of removing a front distributor for simple points adjustment, sacrilege, I know . Unlike most others, mine was requiring adjustment pretty frequently. Seemed like the best thing to do at the time (probably a naive assumption, but it's done now).

Kind of a pain in the @$$ when I got too much to do and too little time to do it. Plus, screaming cows wondering why that old tractor with the hay buggy is still sitting in the lean-to with Daddy messing around on it.

 

[scopecat1]

You definitely do not need that resistor , I figured you meant the coil that came with the EI kit.

 

[JMOR]

What we have here is a boat load of speculation, opinion, and guesses. Measure steady state (100% on time) coil current & if above 4 1/2 amperes, add resistor. Then you will know. Otherwise, you either guess, or if you bought both EI & coil from Pertronix, as them.. It appears that it has been working fine for 10 years, so unless I misunderstood that, then why on earth would any sane person jack with such success??? :?: