Ridgid TP1300LS planer

[cityboy]

I have this 2 blade model....

Planing hickory boards, 5", 8" in width. Removing 1/32" on a pass. By the time a 3rd board is fed into the machine, no material is removed from the board. I've adjusted the lock to where it's tight, waxed the bed, in/out feed tables, replaced the 2 cutters, tore apart and cleaned anything to do w/the lock. I still get cutter head movement after the 1st board, maybe 1/64", for each board I put thru the machine.

Any ideas?
Thanks much, Don.

 

[Loosehandle]

Are the blades super sharp? Being new
doesn't mean much these days. Hickory is a
real test for my DeWalt like that.

 

[Stephen Newell]

The problem has to be with the locking mechanism. I know you worked on it but somehow it's slipping. From what I read it's a common problem
with that planer. You may have to jury rig something.

Something I stole from another website: If you are referring to the anti snipe lock, there is a remedy in the owners manual. It involves
removing the height adjustment crank and advancing it on the cogged shaft a few notches. Replace the crank wheel and try it out. I had to
advance mine several times to get a good lock effect. If you don't have the manual, check out the Ridgid site for a download or PM me and
I'll send you more detailed info. Definitely a do-it-yo

 

[Janicholson]

The pinch rollers apply enough force on the material to flex the mechanism. A pure cast iron (old) planer can be far more rigid. If you have made the fixes discussed below, and still get deflection, learning to compensate for the inaccuracy may be the only solution. An old Powermatic machine, though noisy as a freight train, does not exhibit that error. Jim

 

[Russ from MN]

About 20 years ago when living in St Cloud I was planning on buying a planer, and one of my friends was looking at them too. He commented about a particular inexpensive brand, It's a lunchbox with a cutter head in it! I bought a DeWalt and have been very happy with it, but I did replace the feed roll bearings once.

 

[cityboy]

Neighbor came by to help me this morning. Tore it apart again. On the left side, locking mechanism shaft, is a set screw for that side. The hole is stripped. Removed the shaft. Will need to disassemble it. Drill/tap for a new screw. Fingers crossed I can find a similar style screw at my local Ace hardware but aint holding my breath.

Thanks all, much appreciated...Don.

 

[cityboy]

(quoted from post at 07:04:48 02/09/23)
Something I stole from another website: If you are referring to the anti snipe lock, there is a remedy in the owners manual. It involves
removing the height adjustment crank and advancing it on the cogged shaft a few notches. Replace the crank wheel and try it out. I had to
advance mine several times to get a good lock effect. If you don't have the manual, check out the Ridgid site for a download or PM me and
I'll send you more detailed info. Definitely a do-it-yo

I tried to PM you but all I get is a blank screen.

I have drilled/tapped a new screw for the left side of the lock. It did little to help.

I have a manual but it has virtually nothing about adjustments. Any manual I find, all have 24 pages, which is what I downloaded. Downloaded the schematics for the machine. Lock is adjusted to where I have a problem unlocking it.

While machine is running, if I hold the handle, cutter head does not lower.

I go to ridgid.com, do a search. TP1300LS not found...not surprised w/the age of this machine.

Your reference to the crank wheel. Mine has a D shape for the end of the shaft. It only goes on the shaft 1 way. I don't see a cogged shaft. I have a threaded, which is bolted to the base. Turn the wheel, cutter head moves up/down. I will assume I need to loosen this shaft from the base. Do I adjust the threaded shaft on the handle side, opposite side or both?

Thank you for any help you can provide,
Don.

This post was edited by cityboy on 02/14/2023 at 07:51 am.