Rope seal replacement tips??

[Gantt]

I am trying to reseal my oil pan after checking the clearance in the main and rod bearings. I am having a hard time getting the rear upper seal out. I have tried loosening the main caps and using a screwdriver to push the seal around the crank and out of its housing. Even tried to rotate the crack while pushing the seal. All I have accomplished is pushing the seal further in and compacting it.
Any ideas? Don t tell me I have to pull the crank just to change this seal?!

 

[showcrop]

Rope seals are difficult with the block on a stand. Sorry. Before doing it watch a U tube video titled "rear seal replacement Holden V-8" it is very comprehensive. I just did one on a car and it came with some side seals which were much better than others that I have used.

 

[HCooke]

I have never done an inframe rebuild so bear with me. If you have already dropped the pan, I assume you have moved the front axle and the
radiator. Correct? If so just go ahead and remove the rest of the block and put it on a stand.

 

[tractorguy2]

Dad use to change rope seals all the time back when all Ford engines (Car, truck, pickup, tractor, power unit) used them. He had a tool that looked like a small cork screw. he would screw it into the seal on one side and pull on while using a screwdriver on the other end to push. Sometimes they came out in one piece and sometimes in many pieces. But they always came out. I think the tool came from NAPA.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I want tell ya then : (...

The replacement seals are extremely stiff I doubt you would ever get it in without removing the crank...

The seal sets in a carrier it needs to come out and be re-sealed...

I have searched for a limp rope seal none I have came across have I had the balls to try I did not like the sloppy fit... Fel-pro list nice limp rope seals for a N it will come with two sets one set to big and one set to small... Don't go there...

The seal on a N is a strange animal the ends of the oil pan gasket overlap between the seals DO NOT LEAVE THE ENDS PROUD OF THE BLOCK cut as close as you can a tad will be proud that's ok but don't intentionally do it like in the Holden video posted...

I do not soak the seal in oil it does no good, put assembly lube on the seal where it mates to the crank leave the ends dry add a little sealant to the ends... This is not a Holden V-8...

If you are a gambling man you could leave the top seal in install a lower then cut the lower proud seal it and cross your fingers... Put sealer where the camp mates to the block...

Zane said you could pack the uppers with the cotton rope seals for a Ferguson it cost me to take chances I taint going there...

 

[rustred]

yes you do need to pull the crank. a rope seal fits into the groove then you work it in with a hammer handle. you cannot pull it around the groove with the crank in. if you can it will leak anyhow. so keep the top half in there and replace the bottom . leave it slightly longer at the ends so it will push into the top half.

 

[showcrop]

It occurred to me just before reading Hobo's post that there must have been a different rope seal that was much smaller and more "limp" than the ones currently available. The ones that I have gotten for Fords and Olivers and my Datsun are all approximately five times as large as the available space, so it takes a lot of work to get them into the space.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" He had a tool that looked like a small cork screw. "

It was called a " Sneaky Pete".

IIRC, it also had a wire on it for pulling the new seal around the crank.

Had one around here for years.
75 Tips

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 04:24:04 04/11/20) " He had a tool that looked like a small cork screw. "

It was called a " Sneaky Pete".

IIRC, it also had a wire on it for pulling the new seal around the crank.

Had one around here for years.
75 Tips

Bruce, I have had one around here for years too. I know exactly where it is, still in the original packing. I realized after buying it that it was only a wish.

 

[SteveB(OH)]

When I first bought my 8N I dropped the pan to check the bearing clearances. To reassemble I did the following:

Used a punch to lightly tap the ends of the rope seal into the block and tighten it up a little.

Put a new rope seal in the pan leaving the ends of the rope seal proud equal to the distance the rope was recessed into the block plus 1/16" on each side.

That was 20 years ago and I haven't had any problems.

If I remember correctly that process was recommended by Dell way back in the day.

 

[SteveB(OH)]

When I first bought my 8N I dropped the pan to check the bearing clearances. To reassemble I did the following:

Used a punch to lightly tap the ends of the rope seal into the block and tighten it up a little.

Put a new rope seal in the pan leaving the ends of the rope seal proud equal to the distance the rope was recessed into the block plus 1/16" on each side.

That was 20 years ago and I haven't had any problems.

If I remember correctly that process was recommended by Dell way back in the day.

 

[jimtrs]

(quoted from post at 19:01:37 04/10/20)
Don t tell me I have to pull the crank just to change this seal

OK, I won't tell you, I'll let others, but looking for shortcuts here, hmm....

My advice, as Iv'e done at least a couple dozen N engine rebuilds....

Listen to Hobo

The replacement seals are extremely stiff I doubt you would ever get it in without removing the crank...

The seal sets in a carrier it needs to come out and be re-sealed...

The seal on a N is a strange animal the ends of the oil pan gasket overlap between the seals DO NOT LEAVE THE ENDS PROUD OF THE BLOCK cut as close as you can a tad will be proud that's ok but don't intentionally do it like in the Holden video posted...

I do not soak the seal in oil it does no good, put assembly lube on the seal where it mates to the crank leave the ends dry add a little sealant to the ends... This is not a Holden V-8...

If you are a gambling man you could leave the top seal in install a lower then cut the lower proud seal it and cross your fingers... Put sealer where the camp mates to the block...

Best of luck

 

[Gantt]

i was able to finally get it. the housing rotated out with it, i cleaned it, installed the rope and tapped the entire assembly back in. after running it about 6 hours i see a drip in my shop at the rear main area. as long as it doesn't get real bad i will leave it as is. this engine is not the freshest in town anyway. for now, she works!!!

i can appreciate modern oil seals much more now.