Rosa Master injection pump

[tallman]

Is the input drive shaft one solid shaft, and if not, where can I get one

 

[Scott 730]

Need more info if you want the correct answer. Start with the basics................... what tractor, truck, or piece of equipment do you have??

 

[TractorTech]

Welcome to the forum. Agreed, more information needed. How about a picture of the pump ID plate too

 

[tallman]

1960’s ford diesel wheel tractor. It wouldn’t start and the filter was plugged up with brownish goo. So I took the pump off and was going to clean it out and reseal it. When I spun the input shaft cow or center it spun very freely. I’m want to know did something break inside or is there a clutch pack inside the pump. I’m at a loss and on a limited budget

 

[Texasmark]

Diesel Tech posts on here and does helpful information/overhaul/repairs. Ping him.

 

[TractorTech]

From Ford parts book on a Roosa Master on a pre 65 Ford. The shaft is solid, but has a thinner spot that will break if the pump locks

 

[moresmoke]

The pump doesn't turn that hard when there is no fuel in it. The transfer pump has to make pressure to push the pistons out against the cam to make it pump.

 

[rustred]

1960’s ford diesel wheel tractor. It wouldn’t start and the filter was plugged up with brownish goo. So I took the pump off and was going to clean it out and reseal it. When I spun the input shaft cow or center it spun very freely. I’m want to know did something break inside or is there a clutch pack inside the pump. I’m at a loss and on a limited budget

they turn pretty easy with a big screwdriver. the shaft has a cut out on it where they break, at least on the ih tractors. if you taking it apart to clean it them filters not doing their job. i would have replaced the filters and of course cleaned everything from the tank forward and see if the pump would pump. was this a running tractor or a sitting tractor ?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Take the cover off the transfer pump. If that is turning, nothing is broken, although you still may have to break it down to un-stick the plungers.

 

[used red MN]

Take the cover off the transfer pump.

Hello Tallman welcome to YT! My guess is you’re long past this, but removing the timing window #74 in diagram attached to reply 6 will give you the same information.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Hello Tallman welcome to YT! My guess is you’re long past this, but removing the timing window #74 in diagram attached to reply 6 will give you the same information.

I just mentioned that because I had a MF 231 shear off halfway thru the head and the plungers were still turning but not the transfer.

 

[Dieseltech]

I just mentioned that because I had a MF 231 shear off halfway thru the head and the plungers were still turning but not the transfer.

The CAV DPA head shears in a different location, the Stanadyne/Roosa DB pumps will shear at the drive shaft when the head/rotor assembly is seized. If the timing line plate IS moving on the DB pump when engine is turned, head is NOT seized.

 

[tallman]

Ok , thank you for all the info. The shaft was broken at the head. The customer said he had a bit of water in his fuel before I started working on it and I’m guessing that’s how the shaft snapped.

 

[tallman]

Onto a new post. I own a 1964 International 806 diesel. It’s been parked for a couple years and I’m trying to get it going. I cleaned the tank out due to black sludge buildup. Now after priming it all out, it won’t start. What did I do incorrectly?

 

[used red MN]

Onto a new post. I own a 1964 International 806 diesel. It’s been parked for a couple years and I’m trying to get it going. I cleaned the tank out due to black sludge buildup. Now after priming it all out, it won’t start. What did I do incorrectly?

“Priming it all out” Does this mean that it is pumping fuel to the injectors? Is it smoking while cranking? That is what we need to know. Did you try any either on it? Those engines need some juice to start them to just pick a number say below 50F. If the pump was pulled there is always a possibility of it being timed incorrectly.

 

[john in la]

Two tractors and both have a brown or black goo in the fuel tank and/or the filter.
Sounds like first thing you need to do is get some biocide.
Second thing you need to do is get a better fuel supplier.

 

[used red MN]

Two tractors and both have a brown or black goo in the fuel tank and/or the filter.
Sounds like first thing you need to do is get some biocide.
Second thing you need to do is get a better fuel supplier.

Ready, don’t aim, but fire! In reply 13 he said the Ford tractor belongs to a customer who admitted he had a bit of water in his fuel. In reply 14 he said the 806 had sat a couple of years. Hard to blame the problems on a single fuel supplier?

 

[Dieseltech]

Setting unused that long I'll bet the rotor plungers and other internal parts are stuck on the 806 pump. I see pumps in that shape in for repair a lot lately. ANY traces of water in fuel, OR Bio diesel is a SURE way to cause pump trouble when it sets unused awhile. I HOPE it's NOT the IH RD pump, those were a joke when they were new and most didn't last long.

 

[tallman]

“Priming it all out” Does this mean that it is pumping fuel to the injectors? Is it smoking while cranking? That is what we need to know. Did you try any either on it? Those engines need some juice to start them to just pick a number say below 50F. If the pump was pulled there is always a possibility of it being timed incorrectly.

I don’t have fuel going to the injectors. I tried either and it won’t keep running. Without taking the pump completely apart, is there anything I can clean out to get the fuel to flow through the pump?

Setting unused that long I'll bet the rotor plungers and other internal parts are stuck on the 806 pump. I see pumps in that shape in for repair a lot lately. ANY traces of water in fuel, OR Bio diesel is a SURE way to cause pump trouble when it sets unused awhile. I HOPE it's NOT the IH RD pump, those were a joke when they were new and most didn't last long.

Ilive in Calif and most of our diesel has that bio crap in it. That’s why I had to remove the fuel tank in order to clean that sticky, gooey reddish brown crap out of it. Then I flushed all the lines out and ran a speedometer cable through them to clean them. And replaced the filters also. Plus I cleaned the intake fuel screen on the pump. I’m at wits end.

 

[used red MN]

Without taking the pump completely apart, is there anything I can clean out to get the fuel to flow through the pump?

No
Unless the meeting valve under the top cover is stuck. Chances are if that is stuck so are the plungers that deliver the high pressure fuel to the distributor head. Transfer pump pressure is the only thing that pushes the plungers back for the fuel to be forced out again for the next injection cycle.