Rotary Mower Question

RUSTY - That mower looks like the 6 ft Brillion We and half our neighbor's had, it even had the same terribly 2 u-joint PTO shaft, a universal right next to the gearbox and the other right by the coupler yoke that attached to the tractor pto shaft. The hitch pin is just a few inches behind the frt universal and the rear universal is several FEET, like about 4 to 5 feet behind the hitch pin. The frt u-joint bends at a great angle, the rear u-joint barely bends, and that causes the pto shaft to oscillate forward and backwards trying to maintain a steady speed of the mower blades. A bearing about 2 ft behind the frt universal and two yokes and a universal joint installed in that drive shaft would stop ALL that hammering. I ran our Brillion over around 200 acres a year pulling it with my Farmall Super H, normally ran 3rd gear, 5 mph. Mowed hay, chopped corn stalks, and sometimes clipped hog pastures. I've just recently seen a couple Brillion cutters with the 3rd universal in the driveshaft. All IH rotary cutters had 3 universals, they run nice and quiet on tight turns. Our Deere #25 & #30 pull type combines had two universals up front and they both ran smooth and quiet when turning as short as you could without a rear tractor tire getting back into the hitch of the combine.
I Don't know how much more that 3rd u-joint cost but I know it was only a small fraction of what replacing a bunch of rearend parts would have cost.
 
Extra u joint might make a difference on this one but I've had square balers with both types pto shaft and can't say that one was any better or worse than the other between the two and three joint shafts. My 7721 JD combine has the third u joint but I have to take it easy on left turns or it will rattle at 1000 rpm.
 
(quoted from post at 15:13:10 04/30/23) Extra u joint might make a difference on this one but I've had square balers with both types pto shaft and can't say that one was any better or worse than the other between the two and three joint shafts. My 7721 JD combine has the third u joint but I have to take it easy on left turns or it will rattle at 1000 rpm.
wo is only fine if the hitch pin pivot point is located half way between the 2 u-joints.
 
But the dual spindle /two gear box mower is almost twice the price , that is why you do not see as
many and 8 ft is too much for is tractor on the 3 point hitch , might could handel it in a pull type
but way over 4 thousand closer to 5 grand
 
Thanks, obviously your opinion carries some weight when it comes to a Kubota tractors capabilities. I'm still thinking I might pass on the woods mower, I just to don't want to gamble with that amount of money. I'm really thinking about looking at a new Titan/Ironcraft 6' mower this upcoming weekend. Dealer is only 15 minutes away and is actually the guy I bought my M4800 from. If you have any insight on Ironcraft mowers please feel free to share it. I know they are made in Tennessee so I thought maybe you've come across them over the last few years.
 
(quoted from post at 15:21:11 04/30/23) But the dual spindle /two gear box mower is almost twice the price , that is why you do not see as
many and 8 ft is too much for is tractor on the 3 point hitch , might could handel it in a pull type
but way over 4 thousand closer to 5 grand

Don t know where he s located but internet search brought up several used pull type dual spindle machines under his $3500 budget
I just picked up a Rhino TW120 10 footer that needs a little deck repair for less than $1000
 
I think 6ft is prolly closer to the right size for the tractor. We have 2 7ft mowers, one 2 tail wheels one with 1. The one with a single tail wheel is the far better built mower and it floats with the ground contours better
 
Nor would I......a 6' but not a 7' especially if its a single gear box for 2 reasons: Length of the deck and area increase.

The weight in the transport position would probably lift the front wheels off the ground or light steering at least and in hilly, uneven terrain, you could/would have (depending how high your 3 pt could lift that much weight foot-pounds thing)

Even though the diameter only increased by a foot, the blade area increased by 36%. 6' is a good match for that as it is for my Ford 3000.

Just thought of a third reason and that is on non-flat ground, the larger the single deck cutter, the more scalping and missed areas exist. Since I have that kind of black clay that just loves sink holes, the 6' is a good combination to get some cutting efficiency and get the job done and not have too many of the above mentioned issues.
 

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