Rotating Back of Alternator

[stevenpituch]

Hi All,
I am replacing an alternator on a Ford late 8n.
The charging system has not worked since I purchased the tractor and I thought it would be best to order the entire kit (1244A) just in case I needed extra parts.
I have taken the old alternator out. It has the R1R2 port with the two wire lugs pointing straight up.
On the new alternator, the R1R2 port is facing right, which puts it very close to the hot engine block.
I am wondering if it is possible and easy to just rotate the back of the alternator, by removing the 4 case screws and just rotating the back 90 degrees counter-clockwise. I don't want to damage the unit, and am afraid I might snap some internal wiring.

Thanks,
Steve Pituch

 

[teddy52food]

Do you know how to put the brushes back in if you get it apart too far?

 

[714_run]

yes you can no problem

 

[deanostoybox]

Yes you can "re-clock" the alternator by removing the four screws, separating the two halves just a little bit (1/8" is plenty) and rotating the back to the desired position. If you pull the back too far off of the front you will lose the brushes. You will then have to completely remove the back, reinstall the brushes in their holder, and insert a toothpick or piece of wire to hold them in place for reassembly. Remove the toothpick or wire after securing the two halves of the alternator together in order to release the brushes.

That said, I clocked mine so the plug is toward the block on purpose. less chance of the wires hanging on brush etc.. After about 500 hours of use all is well.

I like to clock the plug either toward the engine or down rather than up or to the outside. If the plug is up it is more likely to get dirt, water, etc. in it and cause premature corrosion, and the wires are more vulnerable to getting hung up on something if they are sticking out the side😁

 

[Bob]

Remove the 4 frame screws, carefully pry the sections apart JUST ENOUGH and ONLY ENOUGH so the housings can be "reclocked".

The iron stator laminations MUST slightly pull out of the front aluminum casting and rotate WITH the back aluminum casting, or you will tear the stator connections. DO NTO pry the laminations free of the rear casting!

If you pull it apart ANY more than is needed to make the "lumps" on the front and rear castings clear each other for "reclocking", you will need to pull it all the way apart and 9as "Teddy" wrote, learn to "pin the brushes" fro reassembly, IF you don't break a brush in the process!

(Just for the record, for our purposes, the terminals are #1 and #2. The "R" and "F" markings are used when set up as an older/more rare/odd version of the this series that DOES NOT have an internal regulator installed and DO NOT APPLY to this internally-regulated version.)

 

[stevenpituch]

Thanks all for the very concise information. I ended up popping the brushes on the old unit. I can see how to reseat them with a toothpick. I have decided to leave the new unit as is. Installing it now.

Steve

 

[Hobo,NC]

I pull the alt apart broke to many brush holders trying to get away with it... Use a drill bit are paper clip to retain the brushes use a tooth pick to pick your teeth... My luck the tooth pick would break off...

Its not that hard to do...