Rotating Exhaust Valves

[Btzj02]

In the near future I plan to investigate whether I have a problem with exhaust valve(s). The tractor runs good but my neighbor is a Farm All mechanic from way back and he says it sounds like I have an exhaust valve "issue". I also would like to install adjustable tappets if my 8N51 doesn't already have them. I have been doing quit a bit of research on this Forum, The original shop manual and u-tube. I won't order any parts until I figure out what I have, and my neighbor takes a look, but I have run into information on the rotating Exhaust Valves that needs clarification.

My shop manual has a very involved process to set the rotating valves correctly and the two videos on u-tube that I have found seem to imply the new rotating exhaust valves just pop right in and only the tappets need to be adjusted. I do use this tractor at least twice a week in the summer and some of those times are a full days work!
Question 1: If I decide to replace the exhaust valves are the rotating valves preferred?
Question 2: Are the new rotating exhaust valves manufactured today such that they are as easy to adjust as u-tube implies?

Thanks for any info that will help me plan this project. JB

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Yes and yes.
Here is the most important thing:
If you want to do things right, do things that will perform and last a long time, you need to cut the valve seats to specification.
"Lapping" the valves is half a$$, short term, marginal work that will not last.
Last winter, I removed the entire valve train and threw it all in recycling.
I bought a 3 angle valve cutting set from Neway MFG, precision cut to specification, and installed new valve train complete with rotating exhaust valves.
Purrs like a kitten and has WAY MORE UMMPH that ever before.
If you're going to do it, do it right.
It isn't that expensive, or difficult.
You DO have to work carefully and follow directions.

 

[Hobo,NC]

If you have to ask the question don't use free rotat'N zaust valves... Its not for a beginner... If you are not tooled up very WELL its not gonna go well...

Its a very high tech process... You will need a dial indicator and a good way to grind the end of the valve stems and a few hours to set them up... I will do it on my N but its gonna cost ya big money for me to do yours..

 

[Dean]

What Hobo said.

That said, your 8N, if, indeed, a 51, does have rotating exhaust valves unless they were discarded in an earlier rebuild, which is not uncommon.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Dean

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Don't forget to check your head and deck flatness.
Depending upon head gasket type; re-torque the head after bringing it up to full running temp for the first time.
Make sure to buy a few extra sets of valve cover gaskets.
I DID have to make a couple of minor adjustments to the valve lash after running.
I will recheck again soon.
But really; adjusting valves is ongoing maintenance. Even if the gaps all measure perfect; they need periodic inspection.

 

[Mad Farmer]

(quoted from post at 19:01:08 09/30/20) What Hobo said.

That said, your 8N, if, indeed, a 51, does have rotating exhaust valves unless they were discarded in an earlier rebuild, which is not uncommon.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Dean

I was lucky sometime in the past, my 9N had a valve job and has the adjustable tappets and exhaust rotators.

Initially I had a lot of tappet noise and the manifoid needed replacement so I pulled the valve cover when I did the manifold.

You need the two Ford tappet wrenches , and a ground down open end wrench to adjust the tappets.

With the new manifold and valves adjusted was quiet as a sewing machine. That was years ago and valves are still quiet.

 

[wore out]

If your tractor is running reasonably well and getting the chores done that you require of it what's the issue?

Sounds like a case of "It ain't broke so let's fix it 'til it is"!

On the other hand, if you are working it as it was made for, loading it to rated HP for hours and hours in the heat and it HAS "burned" a valve upgrading to rotators would seem reasonable, IMHO.

 

[Hobo,NC]

If you go there.


https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=380581&highlight=rotatn

 

[jimtrs]

(quoted from post at 22:01:08 09/30/20) What Hobo said.

That said, your 8N, if, indeed, a 51, does have rotating exhaust valves unless they were discarded in an earlier rebuild, which is not uncommon.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Dean

 

[jimtrs]

(quoted from post at 20:30:23 09/30/20) In the near future I plan to investigate whether I have a problem with exhaust valve(s). The tractor runs good but my neighbor is a Farm All mechanic from way back and he says it sounds like I have an exhaust valve "issue"

No offense to your neighbor, but you have an [b:f59f139bae][i:f59f139bae]"exhaust valve issue"[/i:f59f139bae][/b:f59f139bae] if they aren't sealing or opening properly.
Easily determined with some diagnostics (compression test, leak down test)

My shop manual has a very involved process to set the rotating valves correctly

That's because it is an involved process, even for well experienced mechanics. Listen to Hobo,NC & Dean here.

and the two videos on u-tube that I have found seem to imply the new rotating exhaust valves just pop right in and only the tappets need to be adjusted

Everything seems easy on YouTube

Question 1: If I decide to replace the exhaust valves are the rotating valves preferred?

Sure. But IMHO would only really come into play if you use the tractor hard & enough to require engine rebuilds every few years.

Question 2: Are the new rotating exhaust valves manufactured today such that they are as easy to adjust as u-tube implies?

Setting up new rotating exhaust valves, and adjusting them as regular maintenance are two different things. In operation the theory is simple and works. It's just a matter of the setup is involved to get them correct. Lots of trial & error, grinding, etc.


And just to touch base on this that Mad Farmer said

You need the two Ford tappet wrenches...

A lot of the engines have had the block drilled, so as to not require these crazy little wrenches. I personally drill all blocks during rebuilds that aren't already drilled out.

Look for a simple 1/8 inch drilled hole in the boss casting that holds the lifter

 

[Mad Farmer]

I got my Ford tappet wrenches from the Son of the original dealer who sold my tractor new. He said my 9N was the second one that his Father sold.

The dealership, Dalton Tractor, went out of business a few years back. I miss them.

You could go there/call up and ask them anything 9/8 N and get the best straightforward answer. They still had a lot of genuine Ford parts, and anything aftermarket was the best quality next to OEM. They also had a few parts N tractors in the yard for used stuff.

 

[Dean]

You have been fortunate to have an old time Ford dealer in your area.

Most of us have not been so fortunate for a few decades.

Dean

 

[Hobo,NC]

YEP, drill'em life will be good...

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1409649&highlight=punch

 

[Mad Farmer]

(quoted from post at 11:48:02 10/02/20) You have been fortunate to have an old time Ford dealer in your area.

Most of us have not been so fortunate for a few decades.

Dean

Dean,

We lost that dealership a few years back. Most of the dairy farms closed down, then land subdivided. Not much tractor business.

The nice thing about "Pete", was he'd let you into his shop and explain things or to watch a repair. He'd also do "farm calls", to get your tractor running, the tractor doctor.

I remember needing a starter, he explained , stay away from the junk Chi-Com ones, provided me with a quality rebuilt one, and tips on how to install.

He also farmed, when he was in the field his daughter took care of sales/parts. He'd call you back as soon as he got a message.

 

[Btzj02]

Thanks for all the great feedback. The last tractor chore this year will be a Halloween hay ride and then I will not need the tractor again till spring. If I find anything interesting I will post pictures and report.
JB