Row crop 60 questions


Been tinkering with a likely mid year '48 my late BIL had picked up, and it's obviously been cobbled. Not that this is a candidate for full restoration, but it would be handy to have running just for moving things around. However there are a few things that give me pause.

First off, there is clearly a "B" suffix stamped on the serial plate. From what I've found on-line, the 70 manual says suffix "B" is a "high clearance". No mention of such in what I've found for a 60.

The rear centers are obviously non-factory welded to 34" rims. lists 9X32" rims as standard. The rims are "OK" as is, and rubber is serviceable for a good number of acres yet. If the centers were reasonably good it would be a better story. It seems there is no source for replacement centers or full wheels, other than what may be found "used". Is there anything else (common) that would fit the 60 bolt pattern? And what (if any) was a "Hi Clearance" rim/tire size?

Tractordata also list it as either a 4 or 6 speed tranny, but what sparse data I've found says the later model 60's had 5 forward and 2 reverse, though with it sitting as found, I'm hard pressed to find all those gears, and haven't found a definite pattern in a casting or on a web page.

The gas tank is swiss cheese, so when I get a bit more free shop time I'm making one up in 16ga stainless (TIG welded).

FYI, here is a pic of the serial plate.


From what I know, if it has a straight shift lever, it's a four speed. If it's curved, it had a road gear. The ones that came out
on steel wheels didn't have road gear.
Thanks, Rustyplow. Yes, it does have a wide front (currently with car tires). And the shifter comes out of the tranny top at about a 30 degree angle then has a sharp bend straight up, so if that's what you mean by "curved", then for sure it's the 5 speed, and I did count at least 5 positions to shift into. No telling where R1 / R2 are among them. Guess I'll have to get it running to test what gear is where pattern wise.

I'm counting 9 lugs on the rear centers. I haven't taken a measurement of the center hub diameter. Yet.

Also of note is the brake pedals being well separated have a socketed rod between them to apply both brakes with one foot. It's well worn, but still holding in place.
The 48 Actually has two 5th gears. one in each neutral range so some people called it a six speed. They both go the same speed. You could get rear wheels in four or five different sizes. Mine has 28. Back then, what we now call a row crop was called a high clearance.
OK. Let's start over. I downloaded the first picture and the more I looked at it , it wasn't right. I went out and took a picture of my Grandson's tractor which is a 1946. Both 5th gears are the same speed.


The decals come from Dumont's decals.

This post was edited by J.Wondergem on 11/21/2021 at 09:30 am.
Thanks, J.Wondergem.

Danged if I could find a second neutral - it all seems to be on one. *shrug* Guess I'll have to get it moving to actually find all the gears, but at least I now have an idea what I'm looking for!

This is going to be an interesting project - my first Oliver. There are other "Meadow greens" there waiting to be made usable again too. This just seemed an easy first step as "it ran when parked", and the engine was still loose. As is typical of old stuff, it's nearly never really easy, but that keeps it interesting.

Again, thanks all for the info.

On his tractor the springs are good to center the shift lever to center when in neutral. Push the clutch down and push straight up or down. It easily goes to the belt stop, let up a little on the clutch pedal and down again and it'll go the rest of the way to the other part.
WellWorn, my 1954 "88 RowCrop has the "double H" shifting pattern much like the picture posted by Wondergem. When I am in the "upper H" it is sometimes very difficult to find that second neutral.

I just push in the clutch, and gently push the shift knob with the palm, towards neutral. Don't grip the knob as you are doing this. Just push it towards the upper neutral position and let go of it.

The shift lever will spring towards the center of the neutral bar in the upper H. It only springs about half an inch. Where it stops is the place where you can find the way to the lower H and the other neutral. I can not get into the lower H just pulling the lever downward as you would do when normally shifting. I find that if I take the palm of my hand and slap the shift knob straight down towards the ground it will bump it into the lower H and I can then find the other neutral. I hope my directions make some sense and are understandable. Ed

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