Running / Setting Up Deere Baler

[Bill VA]

Reading over the manual for my JD348, it says to feed the hay to the right side of the pickup. I read that as the far side - away from the bale chamber. This opposite the way I run my trusty NH68, which is feed it right against the left most of the pickup. Where on the pickup do you feed your JD baler? Wondering what the rational for feeding the RH side. My guess is it gives the auger time to orderly feed a constant amount of hay into the bale chamber vs big wads right at the bale chamber side - but just a guess.

Do you ever adjust the hay compressor that sits overtop of the pickup? Manual speaks to this, but really I've never knew anyone that tinkered with it on any baler, including myself.

The feeder forks - I think there are 5 holes in it for adjustment. Not sure which hole mine is in presently, question is which hole do you run yours? Or for you it is probably where it was when it left the factory and never gets any attention?

The 348 has bale case side tension doors. Do you run them in or out or somewhere in between?

My NH68 really makes nice hay at 540 PTO rpms. I plan on doing the same with the 348. Is that how you run your JD baler?

This 348 has multi lubber on the knotters. Not sure I like that - somehow I'd be concerned one fitting wouldn't get any grease and I'd have a problem. Those of you that have multi lubber on your baler, what's the good, bad and ugly about these?

Been spending a goodly amount of time pouring over any info I can get my hands on with these late model JD balers and it looks to me like the 336/346 balers are the pattern for the 3x7 and 3x8 series balers, even down to the sheet metal.

Fingers crossed on this 348.

Any info on a JD square baler setup and general operation is most appreciated.

Thanks!
Bill

 

[Brendon Warren]

I wouldn't get too concerned with the adjustments you mentioned. I run a pair of 327s. First I'd make sure that the plunger stop is working and adjusted properly and that the spring that pulls it is in good shape. My spring came unhooked last year and luckily I caught it before it smashed something. Also I would go through the needle and knotter adjustment. Also adjustment on the needle brake. It sounds like you have a book so all your information should be there. I read earlier you were concerned with HP to run it. My uncle runs his baler with a kicker and rack with an 885 David Brown. I wouldn't go climbing big hills with the set up but it has no problem making bales.

 

[bg/mo]

90% of your adjustments are going to depend on your hay,,,how dry ,,,windrow size....its not rocket science its just a baler lol

 

[Tx Jim]

Congratulations for reading the OM. Very few "new to them equipment" owners read the OM.

Ditto on checking for correct operation of PH stop mechanism

The reason JD recommends feeding pickup attachment to far right
side(standing behind baler) is to give auger more time to spread out the hay before it goes into bale chamber.

I always bale with the side doors screwed in on my 347.

Multi-lube has been used on JD sq balers since the mid 1950's. Be sure and use the correct multi-luber grease. JD offers a splice to repair a tube if it gets broken

I only run my baler at 540 rpm if baling at or near capacity. If windrows are lighter I operate pto at a slower speed.

I made a service call on my neighbors 348 this summer that was mis-tying about 30% of the bales in heavy windrows. I observed that he wasn't operating baler at pto speed. I told him to speed up to pto speed and immediately the mis-ties stopped.

 

[DeltaRed]

It's all about how heavy/light the hay is. Set everything at about half and bale. Adjust as needed. I like to run at pto,or a bit below.I've even been known to pull it wide open on occasion while in super heavy hay.It will take some 'practice' to get everything 'dialed in'.On heavy hay,not so importent to feed on the right,just get it in. On light hay,feeding to the far side does help to even out the flow.A bit of advise.Try to keep the feed consistent,as is the case for all balers.Count strokes per bale.I aim for 20 spb. At 15,shirt down.At 25 shift up.You can adjust throttle aswell. Your 'mileage' will vary on this one.

 

[WyoDave]

I've got 3 348 balers and 1 347 for a backup baler. You won't have trouble with it. They're good machines.

The only time I mess with the bars over the pickup is when it stops feeding hay. Some times in certain light grass hay, the hay will kind of lift up and build up over the teeth and they quit feeding, but it's rare.

The feeder forks get adjusted pretty regularly. That's how you adjust how much hay is on either side of the bale based upon windrow size, and is how you control those dreaded banana bales. It's easy, just change them till your bale looks square and how you like it.

I use the side tension doors in conjunction with the main tensioners. Add and subtract from both when I adjust bale density.

You'll be able to see the grease come out from where the multi luber greases at. Just pump till you see lube being forced out. Check every once in awhile to make sure they're all working. I pump mine a couple times every time I adjust bale tension or check the twine box, just out of habit, I guess.

Check your flywheel for play. Seems like about every 50,000 bales I have to put new bushings in the flywheel. Not a horrible job. If this were a new baler to me, I'd pull the plunger, sharpen the knives, check the bearings, re-adjust the knife clearance. You just never know what has been done to it, and it's the pits to find out something needs work when you need to be baling.

David

 

[RogerinIowa]

Use ONLY multi-luber lubricant in the multi-luber. DO NOT use any other type of grease or oil! Only available from JD, I think.

Don't be concerned about something missing lubricant. As you push the plunger FULLY DOWN on the luber, each line gets a squirt. If the line is plugged, it will be hard to push the plunger down at that point, but you can push on past it. It takes several pumps to lube all the locations as each squirt is small. Once in awhile visually check each location and see if it is getting lube. Sure beats using a grease gun!

Feeding crop to the right side or far end of the auger does let it smooth out lumps, but also boosts capacity. Running at near full capacity, crop will build up at the (pre compression chamber)near the plungerhead and curl out front over the end of the auger, and then disappear when the feeder forks put it into the chamber!

Roger

 

[showcrop]

It's the tucker fingers. Be sure you have them right to spec. They are the most likely cause of knotter problems. But with your preparation you shouldn't have any.

 

[4240 Turbo]

JD has more tuning thanothers I have run, NH and Hesston inline, the JD makes better bales for running through stacker though in my experience. As far as side doors, I only run enough in to make a good bale, however I also never back all the way out, as if it plugs/breaks down, open side doors all the way and clear chamber, then re adjust. Similar to combine cylinder. As for feeding, I would try for center or right side, auger seems to do better job that way. If fed lots on inside near plunger, auger wads crop up and will jam or slip, or would I=on old 216. Fed more in middle or away, smooth sailing. Our old 216 ran so much hay it finally wore through the bottom tin under auger. dad sold it, although it made good bales still. I would tinker until you get the hang of it.

 

[Bill VA]

Thanks everyone - very helpful info!

Much appreciated - Bill