Rusted freeze plug.

[DeltaSteve]

I have a '92F150 that is my 'farm pickup'. It has a 300 fuel injected 6.180,000 miles.4wd,5 speed.The body is perfect,no dents,very little to no rust.Over two years ago the freeze plug at the back of the engine rusted out,the one hidden by the flywheel. It's been parked since.I need to fix it,or sell and replace it.To fix,I need to pull trans and flywheel. I am not up to it anymore. Dont know what to do.Not sure of the condition of the rest,are they ready to rust out soon?I need to 'retire' the old '70 before it dies. I'm not selling it!I'd like to 'restore' it.I like the 92,been a perfect 'farm' pickup.but just dont know which direction to go.

 

[Janicholson]

Find a young person with desire to learn and coach them through the process. Youth groups, 4-H, Scouts. Jim

 

[Dieseltech]

I'll second what Jim said, surely there's a young ambitious fellow to help fix it. I'd also replace ALL other plugs too while it's apart.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I'd fix it. The old gear transmissions are lighter and easeir to lift than those old slush boxes are.

 

[Bret4207]

Yup, either find a local kid/guy to assist as you mentor or bid the job out to a local garage. If you have a local vo-tech school, that would be right up their alley. Pulling a tranny or engine, cleaning things up, installing new plugs and reinstalling is a perfect job with little chance of screwing things up bad.

I'm told hard water causes the plugs to rust. There are rubber plugs you can use and I'm told some brands have a lot more galvanizing than others, but I don't know which are the good ones.

 

[moresmoke]

Even if you have to pay a shop to fix it, how much truck would that bill buy you? Primary issue with older vehicles is when they rust out. Where you are at I can believe that one has little rust and the body will last a long time yet.

 

[Steve@Advance]

Good chance the other block plugs will be soon to follow.

Usually there is a layer of sediment that settles in the block. When it gets deep enough to reach the plugs, it starts eating away at them, like it's corrosive.

When you change a plug, best to scrape it away best you can, but it will eventually come back.

You might find a brass plug for the back. Don't think a copper expandable or rubber will work, no room for the head to stick out. Copper expandable are permanent, the rubber I don't trust back there.

 

[jimtrs]

Got a local garage you're friendly with? Might be surprised. I was when my oil pan rotted out on an older 94 Ford 1 ton with a 460. Local mechanic swapped it out and refilled new oil and filter. $200.00 parts & labor. Not sure how he made any money but said it wasn't too bad. Had to loosen up motor mounts and pick up the engine just a little. Said took him an hour or so.

While I am set up to do most of my own work, I couldn't pass on that deal.

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 11:16:02 01/21/21) Good chance the other block plugs will be soon to follow.

Usually there is a layer of sediment that settles in the block. When it gets deep enough to reach the plugs, it starts eating away at them, like it's corrosive.

When you change a plug, best to scrape it away best you can, but it will eventually come back.

You might find a brass plug for the back. Don't think a copper expandable or rubber will work, no room for the head to stick out. Copper expandable are permanent, the rubber I don't trust back there.

Any auto parts store can supply a brass plug set for that engine.

Dorman #567-009 is ONE example.

 

[teddy52food]

Wouldn't it be easier to pull the engine?

 

[jd man wis]

I don't know but check with the ford guys there was some trucks that had a large floor cover under the shifter that might let you get at it that way.

 

[rlp in Co.]

Maybe cut a hole in the firewall?

 

[rustred]

what is cutting a hole going to do?, when either the engine or trans has to come out to remove the flywheel. if it was in the head yes a hole has been cut in the firewall with a hole saw. we have done that. on the old 460.

 

[37 chief]

I don't know why the auto makers don't just install brass freeze plugs, and forget about it. the extra 10-$15.00 most people would be glad to pay. at least I would. I had one leak on the rear of my Aerostar van some years back. Last transmission I will pull. Stan

 

[Ellis Kinney]

I agree with Don. I have a 1981 Ford F100 with the 300 inch six. The engine on my truck is very easy to pull. You don't even have to remove the hood. Ellis

 

[fred kobs]

Whomever does the repair, I am with the other guys, Pull the motor. It's MUCH easier than working from the bottom. Do all the plugs while it's swinging right there accessible. I turned down a clutch job a while back because the customer swore I was inflating the bill by going in from the top. Had done it both ways many times. I was 2hr faster start to finish and much less tired than when pulling trans. also be a good time to think about gaskets. The cork they used then should be about at the end of it's life. button her back up and should be good for another 120,000. jmho fred

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 19:23:37 01/21/21) I don't know why the auto makers don't just install brass freeze plugs, and forget about it. the extra 10-$15.00 most people would be glad to pay. at least I would. I had one leak on the rear of my Aerostar van some years back. Last transmission I will pull. Stan

Yup! And stainless brake lines and galvanize the frames on cars/trucks for sale in the rust belt too! We're talking less than a a grand$$$ in additional cost if they'd do it at the factory.

 

[Pappy]

Remember--he said it was four wheel drive. A lot of difference in weight.

 

[jimg.allentown]

A couple of things here...

I would certainly fix it. As it is it has little value. Fixed, it has the value of being useful
and in good condition.

A few words about choice of materials.
Brass for core plugs is not a great choice for a couple of reasons. First is galvanic
corrosion. Second is that brass has a tendency to get brittle and crack with time. Also,
frequent heating and cooling will make them brittle. Also, differences in coefficient
of expansion can loosen them up and cause them to fall out with exposure to extremes in
temperature.

Stainless is a poor choice for brake lines in the "rust belt" areas.
Chlorides attack and cause stress cracks in stainless. Chlorides are the salts
used in road salt and brine. Care to bet your life on that one?