Safe way to split tractor in half

[RayinVA]

I need to split the tractor in half to check the clutch. Is it safe to place a large floor jack under the motor with the front wheels attached to split the tractor in half??? We started to do this last night with a small (2 ton) floor jack but the engine started to rotate sideways when we started to pull the motor from the transmission.. I was thinking that the large floor jack with a larger contact surface with the engine would work.... OR,,, should I take the front wheels off and get an engine stand ?

Thanks,,,,

 

[souNdguy]

you were headed in the right direction but forgot that the engine is connected to the front bolster which has a rotating axle / kingpin.

take a 2x4 and cut some wedges and hammer them into the axle pivot points so the engine can't lay over.

crib the rear end and front end.. don't rely upon hyds or jacks, or hollow cell concrete blocks. jack stands of appropriate size plus some wod and cribbing are acceptable.

soundguy

 

[RayinVA]

Good idea to use wedges to keep the engine from rotating.. I will use a large floor jack to pull the front of the tractor forward,,then block it to not rely on the floor jack as it sits.

I am checking the clutch to see why the clutch lever wont take it out of gear... I replace the clutch plate last fall during the restoration process,,, but now that the tractor is running I noticed that the clutch wont take it out of gear. it moves about 2 inches with little tension on it,,but doesn't take it out of gear.. I'm assuming I didn't put it together properly..

I'll let you know if I have any questions tonight ! wish me luck... I'm new at restoring gray fords.... I'm completed a few green tractors over the past 3 years.... ray

 

[sfurn52]

I'm completed a few green tractors over the past 3 years

===

good to see you've been promoted to the big leagues!

 

[old]

My self I prefer to remove the front end from the engine then use a engine hoist and pull the engine out. Smaller parts to handle so easier to work with. By the way the clutch does not take it out of gear it disengages the engine from the transmission.

 

[Ultradog MN]

My preferred way to do a split is to block up the engine under the pan with wooden blocking.
As others have said use wedges to keep it from tipping sideways on you.
Then I put the floor jack under the tranny and roll the back half away from the front half.
The reason I do it this way is once you have the radius rods and drag links disconnected the front tires will turn any old way so it is harder to move. If you block the front half and roll the back half away from it it is much easier to "steer" it back together to reconnect.

 

[RayinVA]

Yeah,,, that's what I meant,,,,,I'll blame on my fingers that didn't type what I meant !!

 

[RayinVA]

Good idea...I'll try this....

 

[36 Coupe]

The 2 ton jacks are crap.The engine will flop from side to side unless you wedge the axle.I use an engine hoist to support the engine.cost 200 bucks.A 3.5 ton jack cost me 60 bucks.Look at how the engine is suspended on the front axle.

 

[John Schmincke]

drool drool drool...you got a new radiator? Sweet! Might I ask where you got yours from? My 2N would love a new rad to compliment the new gas tank!
John

 

[RayinVA]

blocking the engine and moving the transmission backwards on a large floor jack worked well... when we looked inside the clutch linkage there was only one spring attached to the throw out bearing assembly.... I'm assuming it should have two... How important is two springs?? thanks...

Everything else looked good (to me), so we think that the clutch was not disengaging because the new clutch rod on the outside of the transmission was not adjusted short enough to push the bearing against the three bolts to the clutch springs... a bit of a novice error !!! oh well.. live and learn...

I will buy another spring tomorrow and we will see if we can realign the splines tomorrow night. We didn't have any trouble the first time we reattached the tranny housing to the motor... let's hope it goes as well tomorrow night...
ray

 

[RayinVA]

Yesterdays tractor for $198.00 + 20 shipping!! It was the heavy duty version.. not cheap, but it fit well..and it came with the new winged cap. It took two new carriage bolts on the bottom instead of the original bolts up into the radiator.....

 

[John Schmincke]

Thank you sir. I was looking at the cheaper version but wondered about the one you got. I'll probably go with the same as you got after that report. The tank was Yesterdays Tractor also for $136.00 I hope it works as good as it looks. Theres no vent hole in the bump on top but I'm told a vented gas cap will suffice.
John

 

[John Schmincke]

By the way Ray, that tractor is looking really good. Guess I shoulda mentioned that along with the radiator post but I envy the time you have to do this. My 2N wouldn't hold a candle to yours. Good luck finishing her up.
John

 

[Ultradog MN]

I bet you know how to adjust the clutch now. wink
Don't remember if it's two springs. Others here will tell you.
I have always been able to eyeball the center of the disc into the pressure plate. Don't force the tractor back together.
You can engage the pto handle and turn the pto shaft to align the splines.
You did this pretty quick. Some guys have to talk about it for a month or two before they do it. Good job.

 

[R Geiger]

I was just about ready to split my 8n rebuild for the same reason, when I figured out it was just the adjustment. Yes two springs.

 

[Ken Ind.]

Dont have to remove the front end!!! just put wedges in between the axle and the front frame so she wont shift from side to side. I have evcen put a clutch in one with out removing the hood It can be done . Good luck

 

[RayinVA]

Great idea about using the PTO to turn the transmission shaft to get it aligned for the clutch splines... Thanks,,,,,,,