Screw/Bolt Extractor

[LJS30]

Can you guys recommend a solid screw/bolt extractor? I have a broken bolt in my 290 that is going to need to be extracted and so far what I have used in the past isn't going to cut it.

 

[Scott 730]

290 Cummins? 290 John Deere planter?

 

[LJS30]

The tractor in question is a MF 290. There is this bold that secures the sheet metal, which also houses the hydraulic linkages, into the top of the lift cover. Well this bolt sheared off inside the cover and now the sheet metal moves, thus meaning the hydraulics move with it. I need to get that broken bolt out and secure with a new one so the tractor can be useful to me again.

 

[Janicholson]

The process starts with an analysis of what caused it to shear off. If it was being removed and twisted off, that is difficult. If it broke off from being worn at the point where it touched the sheet metal that is better. If it was sheared off by force from the sheet metal that is best. This, to a large degree, determines how to proceed. If twisted off, the bolt threads are stuck in the female threads of the hole. Solutions include drilling the bolt stub until near nothing remains and picking out the remaining coil of bolt with picks. The task is complicated because getting a drill started exactly on center is difficult, and if off center, does not allow complete drilling before the threads are being destroyed on one side of the hole. A second way requires the removal of the sheet metal the bolt was holding, then welding a thick washer to the sheared bolt through the washer hole. then welding a nut to the washer to allow it to be unscrewed. The super heating of the bolt from welding breaks the bond of rust/corrosion and is 80% of the reason it unscrews. If there is a protruding stub of bolt, the welding is easiest to use. A left hand twist drill bit spinning backwards can remove a not too stuck bolt and often works. The easy out method is only sud=ccessful on bolts that were already easy to remove. the easy out tool often wedges the bolt larger in the hole and either twists off, or strips out with even less to work with afterwords. A small easy out that could avoid spreading the bolt is even more likely to snap. An alternative I like is to drill and tap a new hole next to the existing hole and put a new bolt in that hole. Cut the head off of a similar bolt and glue it on the broken bolt hole with JB weld so it looks like it was ment to be that way. Jim

 

[John Garner]

Screw extractors generally have a very
high failure rate, and once broken are
darn hard to remove.

I suggest you spend some time online,
looking up broken bolt removal. In the
meantime, give the broken one a good smack
with a largest pin punch that will fit
into the hole, then soak it with your
favorite penetrating oil.

Left-hand drills and drill guides play a
big role in my own broken-bolt removal
efforts.

 

[LJS30]

Thank you for your advice. Let me clarify for possible further advice. The bolt broke so now there is a piece left threaded inside the lift cover. Welding sounds like the best course of action though.

 

[LJS30]

Thanks for the ideas man!!!

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

The only ones that I have had success with are the square ones from Proto. I worked in a machine shop for 40 years and we tried about everything they came out with from the local distributor. They would sometimes give us samples to try. Always went back to Proto.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

I've had great success using a Torx head bit .
The steel they are made from is tough and less likely to break like a screw extractor .
Drill a hole approximately one third of the diameter of the bolt , find a Torx bit that can be hammered into the hole so the splines engage the sides and use a ratchet driver or fixed handle to remove it .
Tightening it a little first can sometimes help , a few drops of diesel down the hole will help lubricate it and heat is almost always your friend .

 

[Mule Meat]

Try a Left Hand Twist drill bit.

Start with a small one and work your way up. A lot of times the heat generated will allow the bolt to be extracted fairly easily.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

E-Z OUT works when usd properly. Use a carbide drill smaller than the broken bolt.

TPD

 

[showcrop]

Left handed drill bit followed by SQUARE extractor. Left handed bits are magic.

 

[ASEguy]

This would be an instance I like Snap-on. Depending on the size, they have the drill bit accompanying the removal bit. You slide a nut down
on it. Works well up to a around 3/8ths I believe.

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 07:43:27 04/16/23) This would be an instance I like Snap-on. Depending on the size, they have the drill bit accompanying the removal bit. You slide a nut down
on it. Works well up to a around 3/8ths I believe.

Ridgid makes these which are rebranded and sold by Matco, Snap-on, and likely some others. They are good extractors and the guides are help in holding center, if the broken bolt is recessed in a hole.

 

[4wdtom]

If a broken bolt is really rusted and stuck to where I don't want to risk breaking a screw extractor I drill all the way thorough it. The tap hole is deeper than the
length of the broken off end of the bolt. Then use larger and larger drills until I can just see the threads. As has been said this is difficult to get the drill in the
center of the broken bolt but it doesn't matter because next I get a sabre saw or section of hack saw blade and cut through the length of the broken section right into
the threads until I am through them. At this point with punches, center punches, cold chisels, and tapping with a hammer the saw slot will allow the broken piece to
contract enough to loosen and allow some penetrating oil in and it will screw out. As to cutting into the treads it doesn't matter, you aren't removing that big of a
percent of them and usually there are more threads engaged than is necessary and if concerned you can usually deepen the threads with tap and or bottoming tap and use a
longer bolt if you think necessary. And put grease or anti seize in the threads to prevent (hopefully) the problem again in the future. I have been greasing threads for
years and have never had any loosen.

 

[Welding man]

I have been removing broken bolts for over 45 years and have never found 1 single bolt that was broken that a left hand drill bit
would remove it. Just my bad luck I guess.

 

[Gary Mitchell]

I 2nd the left handed bits!! gm

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 10:44:22 04/16/23) I have been removing broken bolts for over 45 years and have never found 1 single bolt that was broken that a left hand drill bit
would remove it. Just my bad luck I guess.

I have had a few spin out with left-hand bits. Left-hand bits aren't magic. The left-hand bits, if they catch, will often spin out the bolts that a right-hand bit, if it catches, would spin in, which is not all that often. Bolts that are really stuck aren't coming out with either right- or left-hand bits alone, but it doesn't hurt to use left hand bits, in case you might get lucky.

 

[LJS30]

I may have to pick that up man. Anything made by Ridgid is going to be quality.

 

[LJS30]

Thank you for the advice!!