SCV not working correctly

Craig C

Member
I've got a 4650 that the first remote works properly most of the time, but every now and then it dosen't seem to flow any oil. I have it set on max. I adjusted the slack out of the linkage to pull rearward to lift the implement. Side note, it would leak down slowly, and it isn't the cyclinder. I changed places with the hose to push forward to lift the implement, and it no longer leaks down, but it will still act as if the valve is't opening with no ryhme or reason at times. I have the wings of the mower on the 2nd and 3rd valve. They always move when you move the lever. I am thinking that the valve is worn or out of adjustment internally. the mower uses little 1/4 inch hoses to move large bore cylinders on a 20ft bushhog. that would give it a reason to be slow, but not a reason to not do something. The 4440 service manual I have shows using a special plate to adjust the valve levers on the inside. Are they ususally rebuildable? I have a friend that took one to a "guy that used to work for Deere", and that was a disaster. I know a Tech at the local dealership that is the 20-55 series specialist and he is probably the only one that I would let lay hands on it. I valve doesn't seem to have an internal leak, or heating the oil. It seems to even make a difference which way the tractor is leaning or if you are on rough ground. Hopefully some of you guys have plenty of experience with those valves. Changing couplers is as far as I have ever had to go until now.
 

The four poppet valves(2 pressure/2 return) have rollers on the ends that are operated by rocker plates both of which can wear over time and usage. I don't remember any special plate required to adjust the clearances on the poppet valves on a SCV. Yes there are tedious to adjust and require someone with EXPERIENCE. Some tech's use dial micrometers and some use air pressure. As I've stated in the past JD engineers worked overtime to make the early steering valves & SCV's complicated.
 
The SCVs are rebuildable and are not a bad job after you have done 100's (BTDT)If you have a 4440 manual and feel confident,obtain 4 new poppets and an scv overhaul kit (O rings,packings etc)The 40 series book will refer to grinding the seats of the valve body, disregard this step.You will need a dial indicator to do the adjustment and as noted on previous post,checking with compressed air is a good check before reinstalling the valve on the tractor. BTW our shop allows 4 hr to recondition a scv. (I can do it in less) Post back if you have any questions, Bob
 
Bob, do you recall an adjusting jig or plate that is used to adjust the valve. Maybe I was just dreaming that up or I read it on something else. It looked like an OTC special tool flat plate with holes and contact points on the plate to set the internal levers. I used it some this morning and it never acted up at all. Sounds like I just need to take it off and fix it. I wish I had one of those blocking plates to plug off that remote while I have it removed, so the tractor can be moved around.
 
(reply to post at 15:33:02 08/18/11)

Craig
The early steering valve before the metering pump steering required a special plate to adjust but I don't remember an adjusting plate for the SCV's. Maybe one of the tech's will comment.
 
The plate you are referring to bolts on to the valve housing where the rear cover would be when the valve is mounted on the tractor. It has 4,3/8 holes to attach it and 4,1/4 holes tapped for screws which are used to seat the poppets when adjusting. The one at our sop was made from a piece of 1/4 flat plate. I made one of my own and welded a piece of 1" square tube to it so the tube can be clamped in a vice making it a holding fixture as well. I can"t remember (not at work right now) wether this is a dealer fabricated tool or an OTC manufacture. The manual may show it in the special tool section, Bob
 
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