sediment bowl quality

Hey G6 - Right here is a good source.

Go to the top and choose [color=red:fb1811177e]Ford 9,2,8N[/color:fb1811177e],

Choose [color=red:fb1811177e]8N[/color:fb1811177e]

Scroll down to [color=red:fb1811177e]fuel[/color:fb1811177e] and choose that section

Drift down to [color=red:fb1811177e]Fuel Sediment Bowl[/color:fb1811177e]:

Or just click here --- https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-8N_Fuel-Sediment-Bowl-Assembly_2NAA9155B.html

Don't add any in-line filters and go into the carb through the screen equipped "L". - Joe -
 
What are the problems with the ones you've tried? One of the major problems with the newer Bulbs is the fuel line threads. The Threads on the Bulb for the unit AND the brass elbow carb inlet are special threads designed for fuel and brake lines. The thread size is 7-16-24 UNS. The fuel line is 1/4 steel. New Bulbs may use metric or just wrong sizes and guys too will try to do their own thread chasing with the wrong sizes. Always use your fingers to start the flare nut inserts and use your other fingers to help guide the fuel line. The line tension can bind and hinder proper insertion. Cross threading is the major cause of stripping the fuel line inlet threads and thus will leak. Always use a 7/16" Flare Nut Wrench and never use pliers, channel locks, an adjustable wrench, or vise grips. Rounding off the flare nuts will occur and you never want that. Always use the OEM cork gasket on the glass bowl -never rubber or plastic. When cleaning bowl and screen, replace with a new cork gasket. Be sure to remove any old cork on glass rim and inside Bulb Assembly. Take a sheet of medium grit sandpaper, place it on the table, lightly run glass bowl rim around to remove old cork and gum.

The main causes of fuel leaks are #1, #2, and #3 sediment bulb valve stem. The valve stem is the only working part in the system as it has a rubber "seal" on it and when it wears down, will begin to leak. It is OEM Ford part number APN-9194 and costs $6-$8 at reputable dealers like just8 and Carpenter. If you pay anymore than that then they are ripping you off. #6 failure is from worn, cross threaded, or wrong fuel line fittings at sediment bulb inlet and/or at brass elbow carb inlet. Use the correct OEM-type fuel line, made exact and pre bent too. Using plastic, copper, nylon, or rubber is NOT recommended. Leak #4 comes when fellas leave the fuel valve knob on when they shut down the tractor. If seal is getting bad, it will leak if left ON and/or when opened. Leak #5 can be caused by backed up vacuum in stem if gas tank vent is plugged, and leak #7 can be caused for same reason if brass fuel line inlet at carb is plugged at the filter. When you get a new valve stem, take a dab of thread sealer and apply to the small 8-32 screw that secures the Bulb flow knob with. Many new models tend to loosen up in the field and fall off. You don't notice til you go to shut down tractor. When it's time to get a new valve stem, pitch old one and repeat knob screw locking.

#1. OEM FORD APN-9194 SEDIMENT BULB & VALVE STEM VIEW DIAGRAM:
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#2. APN-9194 SEDIMENT BULB VALVE STEM FUEL:
SC9Vznlh.jpg

OEM SEDIMENT BULB ASSEMBLY & VALVE STEM:
#3.
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#4. OPEN VALVE STEM 2 FULL TURNS FOR MAIN OPEN POSITION, FULL FOR RESERVE POSITION, OFF POSTION WHEN NOT IN USE:
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#5. GAS TANK VENT PLUGGED, MAY CAUSE NO-FLOW CONDITION:
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SPXQ1Z2h.jpg
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FORD TRACTOR FUEL SEDIMENT BULB FILTERS:
EfzDERqh.jpg

-There are 3 fuel filter screens in the OEM N-Tractor system design You NOT need to add your own external type filter. The OEM fuel screen system works just fine. If the first screen, up inside the Bulb Assembly inside the gas tank gets plugged with dirt, it's time to pull the gas tank and clean it out, and possibly recoat it. The brass elbow screen at the carb is often neglected or forgotten. When it gets plugged, it can cause carb fuel flow issues.


FORD 9N/2N ESENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
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FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
qI9P22kh.jpg

Tim Daley(MI)
 
An update to the sediment bowl: I mixed and matched enough to get one to work. Seem to be holding up two weeks in. Thanks for the replies.
 

imo, the design of these is poor right out of the gate. i got tired of messing with them, and ended up switching to one spec'd for my WD. i needed an adapter for the fuel line - a minor one-time inconvenience, compared to the ongoing problems. i'll never buy another one of the ford style again.
 

WD is an Allis-Chalmers model. i'll be happy to take some pics, but not until this snow storm is over and done with ;)
 
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