So I removed the sediment bowl this weekend to check the screen on top of it. Now I can't align it with the gas line inlet. When I do it's too loose and gas is leaking. If I try to make another full turn in it feels like I'm about to break it to get it aligned. Should I just do it anyway or is there a trick to it?
- Thread starter KristofMI
- Start date
Did some of gunk from the tank get into your threads by chance when you took the bowl off? If its the same bowl assembly it SHOULD go back the way it was. Make sure you use the flats with a wrench on the cast aluminum assembly and not try to strong arm it with your hand. You may have to tweak the line so it fits perfect. The threads are soft and you have a good chance of stripping out the fitting on your line. The same goes for the fitting that meets your 90 degree elbow on your carb.
It's just an NPT thread, nothing fancy. 3/8 NPT if I remember right. Could try tapping a
touch deeper if you really don't wan to crank on it, just don't go too far, and make sure
you don't leave any swarf in the tank. You'd be surprised at how much you can (and
sometimes have to) crank on them to get it to seal. But others are right; you can strip
those threads of you get carried away. As was mentioned - you may have to re-work the line
a little once you get it close.
Not sure if you have the original or aftermarket sediment bowl. If aftermarket, a lot of
them have a couple of different outlet locations; one will have a brass or steel plug
installed and the other open. You can swap the plug location to use the other outlet if it
works better for your line location.
touch deeper if you really don't wan to crank on it, just don't go too far, and make sure
you don't leave any swarf in the tank. You'd be surprised at how much you can (and
sometimes have to) crank on them to get it to seal. But others are right; you can strip
those threads of you get carried away. As was mentioned - you may have to re-work the line
a little once you get it close.
Not sure if you have the original or aftermarket sediment bowl. If aftermarket, a lot of
them have a couple of different outlet locations; one will have a brass or steel plug
installed and the other open. You can swap the plug location to use the other outlet if it
works better for your line location.
Adding to the other response...3/8-18 NPT. If you cant find one in your tool crib, the local big box (the H... Depot) should have
one for cheap. We had a company in China making parts for us. The employees had to buy their own tooling so maybe you got one that
was well used for your threads.
Some people use non hardening pipe dope on the threads like Permatex #2. Make sure the threads are good to go because it makes a
mess and probably don't want to be chasing threads again with that crap everywhere.
one for cheap. We had a company in China making parts for us. The employees had to buy their own tooling so maybe you got one that
was well used for your threads.
Some people use non hardening pipe dope on the threads like Permatex #2. Make sure the threads are good to go because it makes a
mess and probably don't want to be chasing threads again with that crap everywhere.
+1 on the fuel-tolerant pipe dope or tape. Be veeery careful if using teflon tape. Good practice is to put a little tape or dope on all tapered pipe threads, but some teflon tapes these days will turn into goo if left in contact with gas. Best to test a piece of it leaving it sitting in some gas for a day to make sure the tape you have is fuel-tolerant.
the last ford style bowl assembly i purchased had two choices for where to attach the line, 90 degrees apart. i thought it was a nice feature, but i have lost interest in the ford design and won't use it again, too many nuisances. my 2N now has a bowl assembly listed for, iirc, my WD.
sadly, tho, i doubt that would fix the issue you're having. seems to me like your issue has to come from the tank.
No! It's a pipe thread. You should be able to turn it tighter (within reason) to get it where you want.
Somethings wrong.
Are you saying that it feels so tight that you think you may break it tightening more, and it still wiggles ???
Something is seriously wrong.
Brute force seldoms solves this type of problem. What does solve it is investigating and troubleshooting till you find the problem, then fix that.
You had the same valve assembly in this replacement tank and now it won't tighten up and align with the fuel line? Sounds like it's cross threaded.(quoted from post at 06:22:14 04/25/23) I replaced the tank couple of weeks ago. So maybe that's why. Should I cut the thread in tank little bit deeper? I work in machine shop so I just need the thread size and I'm pretty sure I will find the right tap
It's definitely not cross threaded. Maybe I will try to explain little bit more. If I align the bow outlet with gas line inlet the bowl is leaking for the tank threads. If I wiggle the bowl a little I can feel it's too loose but if I turn it more to make it tight it will go pass the second plug and get really tight. So basically a half turn either way will either make it too loose or so tight that even if I use the wrench it feels like I'm about to break it but it's still not aligned. I will try to make a video when I'm there.
rambofirstblood
Member
Put some grease on the tap to catch any chips and go in there and give it a little tweek
(quoted from post at 17:47:08 04/25/23)Between you and I, yes you can. Not the whole fuel line, but a short piece, to make your situation work.
We will probably here some squawking from others though
:lol: :mrgreen: :lol:
i'm one of those heretics with an inline fuel filter. can it work?
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