Seized Oliver standard 66

[Gettin there]

I have several posts here regarding this
project and my prgress and findings.
Question 1) do pistons normally push out
the top of the block?
Question 2) with all rod caps loosened
should/would/will crank rotate.
I've freed #'s 1, 2 & 4 pistons so that I
can push them to the top of the block but
no further.
I've attempted to rotate the crank in the
direction away from the seized piston but
it doesnt budge.
I'm holding off but as a last resort
pulling the block, more or less to turn
block upside down to maybe to
lubricate/soak main bearings cam shaft and
lower portion of stuck piston.
Question 3) would it do anything to
reinstall oil pan over fill motor with
some sort of solvent/oil in order to
completely submerge lower end right up to
bottom of sleeves and let soak for a
period?
What might somone use, varsol??
Is this motor a wet sleseve?
Continued suggestions of course are
welcomed.
I really don't wanna go the route of
pulling the block but will if necessary.

 

[teddy52food]

Push the pistons back down and cut the ridge so the rings don't catch. Then remove the loose ones.Loosen all the main bearing caps. Soak the stuck piston with ATF. If you can pull the front cover & make sure there is nothing locking up the gears.

 

[Gettin there]

What is used to cut the ridge and how is it done?
I've been using several solvents. inside engine cavity below looks quite rusty camshaft included.
Can't get to front cover until I remove rad which additionally requires some minor repair

 

[rrlund]

Oh where to start. It's a wet sleeve engine. If it won't turn over with the rod caps off and the main caps loose, you have other problems. Could be cam bearings, could be PTO shaft, could be transmission input shaft. Could be the pistons won't come up because of a ring of carbon at the top of the cylinders, in which case you'll have to remove the carbon, could be the walls are worn and you have a ridge that'll have to be removed with a ridge reamer tool. The pistons have to come out the top unless you remove the crank. I said a few weeks ago that you might as well pull the engine and put it on a stand. I still think so. I'm afraid you're just spinning your wheels until you do.

It's an Oliver, it has a full frame, you don't have to split it. It's not a big job to get the engine out.

 

[amtrac]

Common ridge reamer is made by Lisle Corp. Could have stuck valves in which case the cam won't roll over in which case the crank won't roll either. Sounds like you would be better off just pulling the engine out and work on the bench or engine stand. You should be able to feel a ridge with your fingernail around the top of the cylinders, if you do, you gotta cut that ridge out to get the piston rings to clear.
Lisle reamer

 

[Steve@Advance]

As rusty as everything is, the engine will have to come out and be completely dismantled, inspected, and corrected.

For the bottom end to be covered in rust is unusual. Is it possible it was submerged in water and never dried out?

Might want to look carefully in the transmission and differential cases. If they are equally rusted, or freeze cracked, could be a deal killer.