Separate or Filet? Welding Question

[DirkinOregon]

I folded my Pittman arm which was attached to my drawbar when I was pulling rotten stumps... It looks like the welds were "cold". Looking at the damage, should I cut the vertical arm from the 2" receiver? or should I use a die grinder to open up the old weld and try to re-position back to original?

Sorry, I don't know how to Rotate the pics........

Thanks, Dirk

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Why pull from the arm. It was not designed for that tough of pull.

 

[DirkinOregon]

The arm is vertical. attached to the tractor by the top link. it intersects a channel that acts like a 2" receiver bolted to the drawbar. I had a subsoiler inserted into the receiver. One of the stumps leveraged the subsoiler almost vertical, rotating the drawbar/receiver maybe 60 degrees. Wish I had taken pics when it was folded.

 

[wh]

Cut and reposition.

 

[used red MN]

Hello Dirk, welcome to YT! Where did you get the name “Pittman arm” from? A photo of this do-dad as it is connected to the tractor would be helpful. My “guess” is what wh has suggested is correct.

 

[Scott 730]

So you are pulling stumps with a chain etc. that is connected to the tractor at a point other than the drawbar? If pulling from some kind of a 3 point apparatus count yourself lucky that the weld broke before the tractor came over backwards. Post a picture of the complete gizmo attached to the tractor.

 

[Jim.ME]

I am not surprised that happened. My thought is that receiver hitch adapter with a “subsoiler” in the receiver is just plain too light to begin with. I would expect a subsoiler to hook directly to the three-point as an implement should.

 

[DirkinOregon]

Sorry to confuse the issue. Here are the pics of the whole setup. The "Pittman arm" is the black adapter that hooks the top link to the drawbar. it used to conform to 90 degrees. I have straightened it out from where it was..... bent down on top of the receiver. So back to the question: Do i cut the arm in two or open the weld with a die grinder and re-weld? Thank for your interest/help

 

[Jim.ME]

As I said before that setup is too light to use with that sub-soiler/ripper tooth. That tooth puts a lot of rotational force back into the receiver box.

Cut the top link post (pittman arm?) free and reweld it at 90 degrees. If you are going to continue to use it, I suggest you add gussets (maybe a piece of 3" channel iron) from the rear of the receiver box up to about 2" below the top link pin hole. That will transfer some of the rotational force up to where the top link will help hold it, not just bend the post at the receiver as it did.

 

[DirkinOregon]

Darn good idea. I was going to weld side plates to it, but your idea seems much better. Thanks for your help. I'll post the final result when I get done .

 

[DirkinOregon]

Well, the reconstruction of the broken "arm" is still on hold. I plan to use it around the ranch for small trailers etc. . So to address some of the helpful suggestions here, I bought this:
It should do the jobs I need.

 

[T.R.K.]

Were you using the ripper when you bent your arm? It looks way too weak to handle that kind of stress. Maybe your orange replacement will have better luck.

 

[DirkinOregon]

It is very stout. And, yes the first one was not made for the job or the method I was subjecting it to. Thanks

 

[Ericp351]

Is that a garden tractor, or a queer photo angle? Looks real delicate. I use real draw bars on real tractors, wheeled and crawlers. Takes guess work out.

 

[used red MN]

Is that a garden tractor, or a queer photo angle? Looks real delicate. I use real draw bars on real tractors, wheeled and crawlers. Takes guess work out.

What difference does it make what tractor it is? Looks like a CUT (compact utility tractor) to me. It may not be a “real” tractor to you but it is what he has. Be happy he’s a tractor guy and is utilizing a tractor as a tool to do some kind of work for him. He is learning what leverage acting on mechanical connections can do and how they distort or break when they are forced to do things beyond their limits. Not everyone has a 100hp ag tractor or a 200hp crawler at their disposal.

 

[Ericp351]

To answer red,s question... type of tractor matters for safe and effeient pulling and implement attachment, without failures. That is and was the subject of this post thingy. Reinvent the wheel, possible, at your own risk and expense. Simple. Example, my 6 x 6 is built to pull 30 ton and up from the rear pintel , less for the rear, provided 3-4 in shakels. I could rig a class 1 to 5 reciever. If I did, it is up to me to figure how to do it properly, can,t rely on the aftermarket hitch, or truck to figure it out. His tractor is probably built to pull from provided 3 point set up, shown, or a possible proprietary draw bar, not shown. He is asking about various aftermarket kits, that are failing. If he has a cast iron gear box and or rear axle, that matters if giving quality advice. If this is a sub compact garden rig with light alloy parts, his "kit" may be overkill. If this is a 3,000 to10, ooo lb tractor the same quick hitch thingy may be ill-advised or even dangerous. We may agree that "he is learning...". We may differ in that I do not want his learning to cost life or limb. Post script for Mr Dink, and red, above. All else being equal. Better for tractor to loose traction before a part fails. Better for a part to fail, think shear pin, than hitch to fail. Better for hitch to fail, above, than tractor damaged. Better tractor fail than kill an American. Tractor, load, et cetera, all relivent, not just the hitch. 9 times in 10, more often, the engineers who built tractor considered that.

 

[DirkinOregon]

OK....... The tractor is a Kubota 3700 with FEL the Sub Soiler is from Titan and has an integral shear pin. I have never seen anyone have difficulty with the type of drawbar, that said I don't have all of the experience that this forum does. That's why I am here. Thanks for the concern, but don't dis my tractor!

Dirk

 

[Ericp351]

So, you use shear pins that did not shear? If so , probably reasonable to chuck in lathe . Use cut off tool to grove at stress point, up to 20 percent dia. Never trust general or imported shear pins to have groves at correct points without checking! Don,t see mutch structure , at least aft parts. Best if don,t rip off "tractor" rear, or flip , et cetera. Enjoy the little guy, but maybe consider using the correct tool for the job. Stuff lasts longer that way. Less drama. Use front weights?

 

[DirkinOregon]

Eric, I hate to burst your condescending bubble, BUT, The shear pin was made in America by Titan! I mic'd and measured mine according to spec. Now back to other facts: The tractor didn't rear bump or flip. I was using the subsoiler to remove small pine stumps that mostly had rotted, successfully. Up to the twelfth one. That one bumped the subsoiler upward, and since I was using a flimsy 2" receiver it bent and rotated my spreader bar folding the "Pitman Arm" the repair of which was the intent of the OP. My tractor and my equipment are appropriate for my ranch and if any of those reading our diatribe need "real Man" equipment I am sure that they will be in touch with you.

Enjoy your toys
Dirk

 

[used red MN]

OK....... The tractor is a Kubota 3700 with FEL the Sub Soiler is from Titan and has an integral shear pin. I have never seen anyone have difficulty with the type of drawbar, that said I don't have all of the experience that this forum does. That's why I am here. Thanks for the concern, but don't dis my tractor!

Dirk

Don,t see mutch structure , at least aft parts. Best if don,t rip off "tractor" rear, or flip , et cetera.

Dirk
It is my opinion that your Kubota 3 point hitch was designed to withstand the horsepower and “pull” as well as the lift capability that the tractor and its available traction can throw at it. In fact I am certain there is an “overage” factor engineered into it. The item you were using that failed was only intended to provide a “steadied” insertion point for a receiver hitch to tow items such as trailers and boats. That “pitman arm” as you called it was not intended to take the stress that mounting the subsoiler point to it required during its use, this point was agreed upon by many. The “Heavy Hitch” receiver adapter you now have looks like it is suitable to use with that subsoiler and should function adequately under the stress. Your Kubota at 37 hp and just a bit over 2500 lbs may not even be able to cause that shear pin to fail. I can’t say that with any certainty because I don’t know anything about it designed protective failure rating, which may be for protecting it when used on a larger more powerful tractor. I will say this, read the owners manual and follow any recommendations it gives about implement use. I would also say if whatever your doing if you feel you would be dislodged from the seat if you don’t have your seat belt on I would say stop and reevaluate the process so the g forces acting on you in the seat can be lessened, this will likely keep anything on the tractor hitch from failing.

Enjoy your tractor!