shaky oliver

[andydap]

hi everyone,
have a 1650 oliver diesel that when under a load shakes like when pulling a plow or harrow. disengage the clutch and it is fine but when you start going it shakes. have replaced the clutch and did seals on the hydra power unit. it seems to come from forward of the transmission. no clue. help

 

[tom upton]

Hows your coupling chain, and/or the alignment? Next thing I would check is the transmission input shaft bearings. With your coupling chain disconnected there should be almost no lateral movement if your bearings are good.

 

[rrlund]

Sounds like when you put it back in, you missed some shims or something and don't have the drive sprockets aligned properly. I had a chain coming apart on my 1550 one time. It shook so bad that it loosened the radiator cap.

 

[andydap]

there was one time when the chain holding the two sprockets fell off. didn't notice any shims that fell off. where are the shims supposed to go?

 

[rrlund]

there was one time when the chain holding the two sprockets fell off. didn't notice any shims that fell off. where are the shims supposed to go?

Under the motor mounts.

 

[trackrat]

If the shims are not right under the motor mounts the tractor will shake and vibrate check the alignment of the drive sprockets

 

[Doug Wi]

hi everyone,
have a 1650 oliver diesel that when under a load shakes like when pulling a plow or harrow. disengage the clutch and it is fine but when you start going it shakes. have replaced the clutch and did seals on the hydra power unit. it seems to come from forward of the transmission. no clue. help

My 1900 did that. Chain and sprocket looked good, wasn't showing much wear. New chain and sprockets fixed the problem.

 

[rustred]

them motor mount bolts are 2 different sizes and must go in the proper spots. plus align the hydra power up or down with the bolt under it once the engine is bolted down. then install the chain.

 

[andydap]

thank you all for the info and i will check everything out.

 

[rrlund]

I wouldn't put a bolt in there after it's bolted down. You can do it before the bolts are tight to level it up and determine how many shims you need, but then take it out.

them motor mount bolts are 2 different sizes and must go in the proper spots. plus align the hydra power up or down with the bolt under it once the engine is bolted down. then install the chain.

 

[tom upton]

them motor mount bolts are 2 different sizes and must go in the proper spots. plus align the hydra power up or down with the bolt under it once the engine is bolted down. then install the chain.

Rust Red: You are correct about the motor mount bolts. The one on the left side front, and the one on the right side rear are the two locating bolts. The good thing is they wont fit the other two holes as they are smaller. Not all 4 digits have the support bolt under the Hydra-power, but it is a good idea to drill and tap and install one if it is not there allready. I have to disagree with your statement about using this bolt to align. It is just there to add support as the Hydra-power rigidly bolts to the back of engine. I suppose you could argue there may be a couple thou sag from the relatively heavy wieght of the hydra-power hence the need for the support bolt. I just dont want to see andydap cranking on the support bolt to try to align coupling. It is also important to note that angular and offset must be checked. Meaning not always do you put equal amounts of shim under both front and back motor mounts. Another thing I just thought of for andydap is when you install the connecting link in the coupling chain be sure to use one long cotter pin thru both pins or you will eventually lose the chain again.

 

[rustred]

Yes , just to get the sag out. Not actually to lift it. That’s how I did it on my 1755.