Should I replace the governor spring or keep the original?

[dbsoundman]

I have a ~1939 9N and pulled the governor because it just wasn't doing its job. The engine would run fine but the bottom 1/3 of the quadrant had no effect on engine speed and if you tried to actually move the tractor the governor wouldn't open up the throttle anymore so it would just bog and die. Everything inside the governor actually looked pretty nice and new, very little wear on the housing, balls all looked nice and round, and so on. The only things that really looked bad were the inside armature, which had a lot of side to side play, and the spring, which was just really dirty and full of crud but very strong.

I plan to make some sort of metal bushing to shore up the armature, and I ordered a replacement spring, but I wanted to check here because I knew "newer isn't always better". The old spring is very tight, and the metal is something super hard; I can't figure out how to get it off the armature without cutting the spring. I did a comparison with the new spring on the bench, and the new spring is more, well, "springy", and it's not as tight (meaning it's a little easier to pull out). Both seem like they would do the job, but I'd like to try to get it right the first time if possible. Any tips or thoughts on the matter?

 

[Farmalldude45]

I have a ~1939 9N and pulled the governor because it just wasn't doing its job. The engine would run fine but the bottom 1/3 of the quadrant had no effect on engine speed and if you tried to actually move the tractor the governor wouldn't open up the throttle anymore so it would just bog and die. Everything inside the governor actually looked pretty nice and new, very little wear on the housing, balls all looked nice and round, and so on. The only things that really looked bad were the inside armature, which had a lot of side to side play, and the spring, which was just really dirty and full of crud but very strong.

I plan to make some sort of metal bushing to shore up the armature, and I ordered a replacement spring, but I wanted to check here because I knew "newer isn't always better". The old spring is very tight, and the metal is something super hard; I can't figure out how to get it off the armature without cutting the spring. I did a comparison with the new spring on the bench, and the new spring is more, well, "springy", and it's not as tight (meaning it's a little easier to pull out). Both seem like they would do the job, but I'd like to try to get it right the first time if possible. Any tips or thoughts on the matter?

View attachment 112635

Keep the original spring. Replacing it with a weaker spring is going to make your throttle response worse. Your throttle problem is probably a linkage issue. Nothing happens regarding engine speed until the spring pulls on the governor arm. I recall the I &T manual shows the procedure for adjusting throttle linkage. If memory serves, it involves bending the linkage to remove the slack. Good luck

 

[dbsoundman]

Keep the original spring. Replacing it with a weaker spring is going to make your throttle response worse. Your throttle problem is probably a linkage issue. Nothing happens regarding engine speed until the spring pulls on the governor arm. I recall the I &T manual shows the procedure for adjusting throttle linkage. If memory serves, it involves bending the linkage to remove the slack. Good luck

Thanks, this was my thinking as well. I have read about the linkage adjustment and plan on checking that once it's back together.

 

[560Dennis]

I ve found my older old tractor has alot of lost motion in the control rods from handle all the way to carburetor. Missing support guides for example. Worn springs and support loops is somewhat visible on your photo. all adds up may not get it all in some form.

 

[dbsoundman]

I ve found my older old tractor has alot of lost motion in the control rods from handle all the way to carburetor. Missing support guides for example. Worn springs and support loops is somewhat visible on your photo. all adds up may not get it all in some form.

There's supposed to be support guides? Looks like I need to take a closer look at the manual!

 

[560Dennis]

There's supposed to be support guides? Looks like I need to take a closer look at the manual!

Some are lost ,corroded away , broken .depends on the model’s design. I move the lever at operator , and watch the carburetor see it responds . If not then ,why ? you’ll get it corrected ,takes some time Always All tractors have there little quirks with age and use .