[email protected]

[Devious]

Well no. 1 update on engine rebuild ing project. I succeeded in getting the block strpped down to the valves and cam. Popped them stuck pistons out with a wooden block and a BFH. Crank and rod bearings look almost new but will not be used again. I am likeing the idea from a couple of guys here on the forum about boring for other pistons and etc without sleeves. I will consult with my pardner with the computerized boring machine and all the experience with doing that stuff. He said bring it on amd he would do whatever was needed. Have to get the valves and cam out and take it by Bruces place he says and put it in the tank for a while first . The Prescription Pain Meds I take every 5-6 hrs don t las that long working with these kids and that motor so I shut down a little early tonight and let them go back to their Video games. Bou Howdy I wish I had their stamina. Devious

 

[Bob Harvey]

'D', Most (including me) will reccomend doing the 'resleeve' route. That is what these units where designed for , and have lasted this long as a result. If'n I had your wealth, I'd burn my $'s (and freeze to death during the ensuing, barely noticeable glow)). It would be a lot of phun to 'hot-rod' one of these 2L engines, but as previously stated, the Army and others did pretty much everything that could be done.I have often thought that a Mazda 2L OHC would work pretty good, but I'm not Mr.Marvin Baumann. Google him for some REAL intersting conversions. HPH, b

 

[Plane Bart]

Glad to hear you are making progress Devious, the good thing is one day your Grand Kids will look back and Smile knowing they helped you with your tractor/s.
memories like that are hard to come by.
Your doing a good thing keep it up.
Good Luck with your Restoration.

 

[Devious]

No Wealth here for sure. Just wondering if it would run better with some tinkering done. I have my socalled good running tractor sittting out there in the back and after I shur it off the other day and let it sit for a few dsyd it won t hit a lick at a snake/ Turns over and over with gas runnung thru it etc but wont start. I don t care what anyone says, a machine that just quits like these tractors do as mentioned on this forum so much everyday, has sosmething lacking that is not normal. This tractor of mine can sit there until H==ll freezes over or I decide to make it run but I will not be messing with it all the time just as a hobby. Sure someone like 36Coupe is gonna comevback and say, Oh my 6 volt has been starting fine for 46.7 yrs but that does not mean squat to hundreds of others that do not start that day. I am thinking of building something that WILL start everyday for 46.7 yrs so I can brag like 36Coupe. I am not barking just to be barking, you know as well as I do that there are posts and posts one after another of MY N won t start or my N won t start until cooling down etc opr my N won t pull up a sight incline. Over and Over and I am in the same boat now after having driven around the block a few times with my kids. Yout statement which is correct, the way they were built, in so many words is correct , Bob but I contend that if it was new and set to specs by experts it would run, but for some reason that is not happening on way too many these days. I admire you and all those who can make these things sing but I am gonna try to get one running that will start with MY finger on the button. With respect to any that think I am out of line. No Diss meant at all. I just don t want to always wonder if I am gonna have a tractor that will not start when I walk up to it with the key. Devious

 

[Bob Harvey]

Well, I can only wish you the best, BUT, if you take the time to follow all the GREAT advice from this group of 'ne'er do wells', 'yabbos' and 'benevolent curmudgeons' you WILL win. Patience is the best tool of all, if what you just did didn't work, go and have a 'Brewski' and chill. Start over. Hey! It doesn't really matter. Have Phun ! - If'n you need the unit as a tool, buy a newer and better one. HPH, b

 

[grhouse]

After I bought my 1950 8N and started working on it and having some problems my wife, whose father owns several tractors and farms about 800 acres, told me that is why all the farmers have multiple tractors. They just simply need that many so that they can be sure to have one that is running at any given time. That really sounds WRONG to me. I've always figured that if you take care of something you would not have these problems. I told her that they should put them in the barn and they would not have a problem.
Well, maybe it is just the fact that the tractors we use on this Forum are 60 plus years old (same as me) and I know that as I get older I don't work as good some days as others. I'm thinking of buying a Ford 3000 a neighbor down the road has for $2500 to do the heavy work around here and keep the Ns for light duty stuff. I think they've earned a light duty retirement at their age. Unless I want to go in and completely rework the engine and transmission and make it like young again.
They are having an auction on Aug. 5 I thought I'd go to at Pefley's Farm Equipment about 30 miles away from me and check it out also. If anybody is interested you're welcome to come. Gene
Pefleys Farm Equipment

 

[Devious]

Heck House, I ain t asking the d---ed thing to do anything but START without a big Act 1 before the Play sort of thing. I have a Peterbilt that has 1 to 1 1/4 million miles on it and it always starts for me. I maintain it except for heavy maintenance. I am 72 and I agree about the age of these machines but with the things we do on them , they should START, and then we could go on to the moving part. Maybe I just don t get it. Later Devious

 

[Pete76NY]

The age is the thing...we have 10 or 11 tractors all older than 1955, one that is a 1964...no matter how well ya restore or maintain them, something ya didn't see happening pops up: I am just putting the super C back together because when we went through it 7 years ago I didn't put new lock washers on the drive shaft coupler bolts...one of em lost it's springyness and the bolt loosened and fell out and jammed between the couple plate and the torque tube wall...thought that I could hop back on finishing the Super M or the '53 Jeep restos we have in progressm but I see that the 420 has an outter axle bearing going and it's leaking around the drop final drives a lil bit...and the 2N finally needs those new sector gears in the steering box...I know fer sure if I needed one tractor that would ALWAYS be ready to go to make money with, I'd have a new Kubota!

 

[Roger in Iowa]

If you take the sleeves out, you do not need to bore, only clean up the bore with a deglazer or lightly hone.

You can bore later and install thick wall sleeves if you want.

 

[Devious]

Thanks Roger. I was thinking that I would make the holes as perfect as I could and marry them up to a set of pistons etc. And to answer someones comment about the tractor being ready for work , I am not in the business of doing tractor work commercially with this tractor, just for me and my quirky stuff. I have another one for the mowing jobs etc that I will "TRY" to get in the STARTING frame of mind soon when I can get a guy I know to come FITZ it as my young grandson splains. Also I had it in my mind that I would need to install pistons to fit the hole size without the sleeves. As for doing stuff later, I would like to do what ever I am doing now to be final, (Unless it blows up) now. More later Thanks Dvevious

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 08:05:28 08/03/10) Thanks Roger. I was thinking that I would make the holes as perfect as I could and marry them up to a set of pistons etc. And to answer someones comment about the tractor being ready for work , I am not in the business of doing tractor work commercially with this tractor, just for me and my quirky stuff. I have another one for the mowing jobs etc that I will "TRY" to get in the STARTING frame of mind soon when I can get a guy I know to come FITZ it as my young grandson splains. Also I had it in my mind that I would need to install pistons to fit the hole size without the sleeves. As for doing stuff later, I would like to do what ever I am doing now to be final, (Unless it blows up) now. More later Thanks Dvevious

For a "final" job (assuming the tractor currently has the .040 sleeves) rebore the block to accept the .090 wall sleeves and install new sleeves, rings, and pistons - grand total of $150 in parts + machine shop charges. If it already has the .090 sleeves in it simply knock them out and replace with new rings, pistons and sleeves - no machining charges. There is no good reason to run pistons in an unsleeved bore - performance gain is miniscule and the block is pretty much toast once that rebuild has worn out. If you simply must play Roger Ramjet Hot Rodder rebore as needed for OEM .090 sleeves and install the "super power" sleeve kit which has the same OD (3.367) but thinner wall sleeves and oversize (3.250 vs 3.187) pistons. That leaves the block intact for the next generation to worry with.

TOH

 

[Devious]

Howmany times do I need to say, I am not playing Roger Ramjet as you call it. Thanks for the info Devious

 

[Devious]

By the way, I will probably be ordering your sleeve tools soon if thta will work. Devious

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 10:01:27 08/03/10) By the way, I will probably be ordering your sleeve tools soon if thta will work. Devious

Sure thing - may I please ask that you not wait until the last minute to place your order. I seldom have the tools made ahead and it takes a week or so depending on my workload at athe time to get a kit ready to go. I don't require payment with the order - I schedule the job and invoice when the order is actually ready to ship. I understand that sometimes folks have to wait a few days until their bank account gets healthy enough to remit payment and that is no problem.

TOH

 

[Devious]

Another question
Can good sleeves still in the block be, if found to be .040 be honed/bored to.090 sleeves still in the blockand new pistons and rings used??? Devious OH Can that .040 thinkness be determined with them in the block? Thnns Devious

 

[Devious]

Well I guess my mind has been made up for me already. This engine as I found out having looked (Finally) at the mainand rod bearings closer that came out of it are .020 so I guess .040 is the prudent size to go back with. I had my grandson bring the blocj into the garage and one of the mains was sitiing on it and fell off and hit my toe. I nonchalantly looked at it and it said ,020 on it. I checked some more outside and they all are 020 size. SOOO TOH send me the amt of money I need to send in Money Order and I will mail it and you can do your end as time allows for you. I am assuming I want the 120M for sure unless you think I need the Master which is OK by me also. I do want the one with the large crush me not cylinder tool for sure. Devious Devious

 

[Devious]

I gpt my horse before the cart. I don t know the sleeve thickness yet but I still need the sleeve tools when ever TOH can get to them. OF course it is not a ASAP project so just whenever you can Hoakie. I WILL and want to go ahead and send the Money Order so send me the amount at my email address [email protected] and I will get that out of the way toosuite.Devious
PS I still don t know where the green engine came from as it is totally green even inside the bell housing around the flywheel.The paint inside there looks almost new. If it is a "Jasper" engine as someone mentioned, they sure painted it inside and out. Devious

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:19:47 08/03/10) I gpt my horse before the cart. I don t know the sleeve thickness yet but I still need the sleeve tools when ever TOH can get to them. OF course it is not a ASAP project so just whenever you can Hoakie. I WILL and want to go ahead and send the Money Order so send me the amount at my email address [email protected] and I will get that out of the way toosuite.Devious
PS I still don t know where the green engine came from as it is totally green even inside the bell housing around the flywheel.The paint inside there looks almost new. If it is a "Jasper" engine as someone mentioned, they sure painted it inside and out. Devious

The SSK-FD-120M kit does motors with both .040 and .090 sleeves. Unless you are going to rebuild 134 and 172 CID motors you have no need of a Master kiit in any of its various forms. The SSK-FD-120M is $89 plus $14.50 flat rate shipping and will ship 10-14 days ARO. It is a great tool for installing either the .040 or .090 sleeves. Call or send me email to order.

TOH
301.655.0631
[email protected]