Simple (?) Hydraulic question

Zachum

New User
Ford 850 (1955) with a Wagner model 100 or 130 loader. My loader has never been able (since I’ve owned it) to lift the bucket more than about a foot and a half off the ground and then slowly sinking down without using the controls. I just lived with it as I only use the machine to bush hog and rototill. But it bugs the crap out of me and I could actually make use of the loader now. I’ve always thought that the frame of the loader had been bent/tweaked enough at some point in its history to where it bound something up and wouldn’t raise beyond that foot and a half max. I based that supposition on the major welding operation visible on the left side of the main loader frame just after the rear axle area mount and the mangled light mount on the high point of the frame on the same side. I suspect the tractor was rolled at some point given the force needed to do that kind of damage. I can visualize how the rams on both sides could have been bent as a result.

So, I resolved to figure out just what was really wrong and see if I could fix it. To that end, I disconnected the ram end of both lift cylinders, fired the tractor up and tried to extend the rams. No go. It wouldn’t extend the rams more than about 8 inches before it bound up. When I say bound up, I mean a hard stop. If you try to force it, it will stall the engine. The bucket tilt works fine, both up and down. The pump is working good enough to lift the front of the tractor off the ground. So the pump is fine Fluid level is also good. Pretty sure the problem is with the lift cylinders.

My working knowledge of hydraulics is just beyond the rudimentary level. But it seems to me that since both cylinders bind up at the same point, and they share the same pressure line, both cylinders are hooped in some fashion. I believe these are double acting cylinders as there is a hose connection at both ends.

So, am I missing something here?

My plan is to pull both cylinders and take them to a hydraulic shop to be tested. If they’re bad, have them repaired or replaced. I suspect replacement will be more cost effective. The main body of these cylinders is 34” X 3” and the ram is 1.36” in diameter. They have “pin eyes” at both ends. From what I can tell, I’m looking at roughly $300 each.

Please give me some advice and/or insight here. Not my area of expertise. Thanks in advance!

Appreciatively,

Mike
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Reads like a good plan to me. Some hyd. cylinder repair shops carry shaft stock so they can machine to order, then send to their welding shop if required.
 
Since they both stop at the same point and are supplied by a single line you might want to make sure the problem isn't with that line. Possibly a flapper or other obstruction that will close it off as fluid moves that direction.
 
Since they both stop at the same point and are supplied by a single line you might want to make sure the problem isn't with that line. Possibly a flapper or other obstruction that will close it off as fluid moves that direction.
Can you explain what a “flapper” is? Do you mean like what can happen with rubber brake lines on older vehicles where the rubber deteriorates internally and can block fluid movement in one direction? How would I test/check a line? I’m open to this possibility as I “think” the max lift height has gotten progressively lower over the last year or so.
 
Can you explain what a “flapper” is? Do you mean like what can happen with rubber brake lines on older vehicles where the rubber deteriorates internally and can block fluid movement in one direction? How would I test/check a line? I’m open to this possibility as I “think” the max lift height has gotten progressively lower over the last year or so.
Yes, like a brake line . Probably take it off where it splits to the separate cylinders and see how it flows. Tie it down so it doesn't go ballistic. I've seen a cylinder act as described when the problem was with the valve controlling it. Others on here are far more knowledgeable than me, hopefully they'll chime in.
 
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