sleeve removal tool

I know "TOH" makes a nice tool for removal and install of 8N sleeves. I only ask this because there is a waiting list to purchase one of these tools. Does anyone have one that they may be interested in selling? not trying to step on anyone's toes, I just have several 8N's that will be redone, one on the engine stand right now and from videos I have seen this works well. [email protected]
 
touring.........uh? Ray Zane recommends laying several seams from arc welder down the length of the sleeve. Don't weld thru the sleeve, understand? I like to recommend making a "spool" from 12" of all-thread and 2-wooden pieces (don't haffta be very round just fit INSIDE the sleeve) Fill the "cavity" of the spool with dry-ice chips and wearing gloves install the shrunk sleeve inside the block. Now un-due the bottom wooden piece and catch the dry-ice chips in bucket and re-peet. Simple, eh? I gitt dry-ice at the grocery store. .......frosty Dell
 
Dell, I have no source of dry ice close by me, but I have packed freezer ice in a stuck sleeve to get it to move. I guess I skin my cat a little different.
Richard in NW SC
 
Richard........you never go to the grocery store???? Freezer pack won't gitt COLD enuff ........the AMAZED Dell
 

DELL....not sure if the "touring.........uh?" was in reference to the username, it stands for my car a 1935 Dodge Touring Sedan

Anyway thanks for the information. I have a mig welder, never used an arc welder before. The dry ice idea is doable.
 
If you have the crankshaft out you can just go to your local machine shop and have them turn you a "Puck" about an inch thick with half of it a few thousanths smaller than the inside diameter of the sleeve and the larger part turn just a few thousands smaller than the bore or outside of the sleeve and just turn the engine upside down and place a heavy steel drift into the middle of the "puch" and using a sledge hammer just drive them out.

Deck must be sitting on something high enough for the sleeves to have room to come out and be sure that the valves are not resting on what is holding the block. Don't want to warp the valves. That will ruin them.

Zane
 
If you can't get dry ice (for some reason it's hard to find and expensive where I am) consider Zane's propane stunt. It'll get things down to 50 below or so.

Freezer temps are about zero, good for making ice and freezing peas to put on your bad knee, but that's about it.
 
(quoted from post at 18:26:57 04/03/15) If you can't get dry ice (for some reason it's hard to find and expensive where I am) consider Zane's propane stunt. It'll get things down to 50 below or so.

Freezer temps are about zero, good for making ice and freezing peas to put on your bad knee, but that's about it.

CO2 is a common gas used in welding and it does not explode .

Dry ice is CO2 in solid form . Dry ice and acetone makes a slushie ( be careful , eye - hand protection - usual disclaimer , use at your own risk ) . When the dry ice turns from solid to gas it will leave your slushie back to clean acetone .
 
I have an aluminum "puck" that I machined from some 6061 at work. I used a press and some smaller diameter aluminum cylinders to press the sleeves out. Seemed to work great.

I then ran some diesel w/ rag and acetone w/ rag on the insides of the block walls.

I then set the sleeves in the freezer over night ( probably doesnt take that long for them to reach freezer temp, but i was done for the night.

plopped them in the tractor no problems the next day.

If you pay for to and from shipping, its yours to borrow.

I'm curious tho, I haven't had any issues, but is there any issue with pressing them out? rather than running a bead down the center of the sleeves to get them to warp?
 
CB. Pressing them out is the "approved" method, warping them with a welder is the farmer method. I am a welder by trade for the last 15years and an aviation mechanic by college with a couple bachelor degrees. I'll be pressing them out of my block in the next week or two. Had to repair my lathe so I could turn the aluminum...


Jeff
 
I'm a welding engineer by trade, and using a stick welder to get them to warp makes me cringe haha. Glad to hear I didn't ruin anything.

GL with your rebuild. Lesson learned: clean the block profusely after lapping the valve seats.....powerwash it outside several times or take it and have it chem washed.
 
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