Snow rig finally ready

jon f mn

Well-known Member
Finally got the 830 all ready for snow.

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Bought the loader a couple months back, that's when the trouble started. It came with a dual valve, so I plumbed it in direct so I could have the remotes. What I didn't know and didn't check for, was a relief valve in that valve. It didn't have one. So the first time the cylinders bottomed, it blew one of the cylinders and the hydraulic pump. Lesson learned there. So got a different valve and replaced the pump and repaired the cylinder and that fixed that up. I had noticed the 3pt would settle down when the tractor was off, so I rebuilt the valve. That worked for a while, then quit again. So I bought a used valve and put that on. While doing that I dropped a piece of linkage down in the rear end, so that meant pulling the pto to get that out. Got that all back together and found the new valve was cracked and leaked. So then I decided to pull mine apart to see if I could find the problem. That was easy ti find.

20241222_094528.jpg


That is pieces of the rubber O-ring that goes between the hydraulic pump and pickup tube. It's not from now, so someone must have dropped it into the pto housing at some time and the pump picked it up. Got that all cleaned out and everything works as it should now. I did clean out the rear housing when I had the pto off to get the part I dropped, so there was no more in there.
So what should have been a couple hours work was several days worth by the time I was done. But it seems to all work well now.
 
Finally got the 830 all ready for snow.

View attachment 98226
Bought the loader a couple months back, that's when the trouble started. It came with a dual valve, so I plumbed it in direct so I could have the remotes. What I didn't know and didn't check for, was a relief valve in that valve. It didn't have one. So the first time the cylinders bottomed, it blew one of the cylinders and the hydraulic pump. Lesson learned there. So got a different valve and replaced the pump and repaired the cylinder and that fixed that up. I had noticed the 3pt would settle down when the tractor was off, so I rebuilt the valve. That worked for a while, then quit again. So I bought a used valve and put that on. While doing that I dropped a piece of linkage down in the rear end, so that meant pulling the pto to get that out. Got that all back together and found the new valve was cracked and leaked. So then I decided to pull mine apart to see if I could find the problem. That was easy ti find.

View attachment 98228

That is pieces of the rubber O-ring that goes between the hydraulic pump and pickup tube. It's not from now, so someone must have dropped it into the pto housing at some time and the pump picked it up. Got that all cleaned out and everything works as it should now. I did clean out the rear housing when I had the pto off to get the part I dropped, so there was no more in there.
So what should have been a couple hours work was several days worth by the time I was done. But it seems to all work well now.
That's a mean looking snow machine. Gidder done!!
 
That is a very heavy looking snow blower, what's the width of that monster? BTW, I don't think you are finished yet, I can't see a heated cab with lights and windshield wipers. Just joking, nice job.
 
Finally got the 830 all ready for snow.

View attachment 98226
Bought the loader a couple months back, that's when the trouble started. It came with a dual valve, so I plumbed it in direct so I could have the remotes. What I didn't know and didn't check for, was a relief valve in that valve. It didn't have one. So the first time the cylinders bottomed, it blew one of the cylinders and the hydraulic pump. Lesson learned there. So got a different valve and replaced the pump and repaired the cylinder and that fixed that up. I had noticed the 3pt would settle down when the tractor was off, so I rebuilt the valve. That worked for a while, then quit again. So I bought a used valve and put that on. While doing that I dropped a piece of linkage down in the rear end, so that meant pulling the pto to get that out. Got that all back together and found the new valve was cracked and leaked. So then I decided to pull mine apart to see if I could find the problem. That was easy ti find.

View attachment 98228

That is pieces of the rubber O-ring that goes between the hydraulic pump and pickup tube. It's not from now, so someone must have dropped it into the pto housing at some time and the pump picked it up. Got that all cleaned out and everything works as it should now. I did clean out the rear housing when I had the pto off to get the part I dropped, so there was no more in there.
So what should have been a couple hours work was several days worth by the time I was done. But it seems to all work well now.
You know you can always tell the ones who know how to just keep at it. Good job, Jon.
 
You at least need a heat-houser. A little heat would be nice?
2X on a HeatHouser. That snow blower will work the tractor enough to throw some good heat out the radiator, channeling that heat to your toes and legs will be toasty, BTDT.

Come March double ring tire chains really bite into refrozen ice.
 
2X on a HeatHouser. That snow blower will work the tractor enough to throw some good heat out the radiator, channeling that heat to your toes and legs will be toasty, BTDT.

Come March double ring tire chains really bite into refrozen ice.
Nice snow moving outfit!!!!!
 
2X on a HeatHouser. That snow blower will work the tractor enough to throw some good heat out the radiator, channeling that heat to your toes and legs will be toasty, BTDT.

Come March double ring tire chains really bite into refrozen ice.
Chains can be a double edged sword when it comes to snowblowers. Too much traction and you can beat up the blower while cramming it into more snow than it can handle, too little and the tractor becomes as helpless as a hog on ice. I have no chains on my 405 Belarus with radial tires and it handles my 72" blower fine, while my 4630 JD needs chains if I ever hope to blow through snow deeper than a foot deep.
 
You at least need a heat-houser. A little heat would be nice?
Not with a snowblower. Snowblowers are messy. No matter how tight you think you have the blower paddles, you'll get a "fog" of snow, especially in light fluffy snow. A heat houser will act like a scoop and capture it all. You'll be colder than ever.
 
Chains can be a double edged sword when it comes to snowblowers. Too much traction and you can beat up the blower while cramming it into more snow than it can handle, too little and the tractor becomes as helpless as a hog on ice. I have no chains on my 405 Belarus with radial tires and it handles my 72" blower fine, while my 4630 JD needs chains if I ever hope to blow through snow deeper than a foot deep.
I've said this before but when my Dad was a kid they'd run ONE chain on the snowblower tractor. The unchained wheel would spin and prevent the tractor from pushing the snowblower too hard, and if you needed to move you just tapped the brake on the unchained wheel, and the chained wheel would move you into the pile. This way you didn't have to ride the clutch, and in 1st reverse with the TA back, you weren't going to burn up the differential.
 
I've said this before but when my Dad was a kid they'd run ONE chain on the snowblower tractor. The unchained wheel would spin and prevent the tractor from pushing the snowblower too hard, and if you needed to move you just tapped the brake on the unchained wheel, and the chained wheel would move you into the pile. This way you didn't have to ride the clutch, and in 1st reverse with the TA back, you weren't going to burn up the differential.
I think a lot depends on what your driveway looks like. Without tire chains on a two wheel drive tractor on a driveway with a hill, you may as well leave the tractor in the shed.
My one farm has a big hill at the end of the driveway, and sure you might be able to blow down the hill, but you could forget about ever getting the tractor back to the top until spring. And if we get some rain or an ice storm, followed by some snow, a two wheel drive tractor without chains becomes a dangerous hazard, because they can take off sideways just as quickly as forwards or backwards. Tire chains at least give a two wheel drive tractor a fighting chance
 
I think a lot depends on what your driveway looks like. Without tire chains on a two wheel drive tractor on a driveway with a hill, you may as well leave the tractor in the shed.
My one farm has a big hill at the end of the driveway, and sure you might be able to blow down the hill, but you could forget about ever getting the tractor back to the top until spring. And if we get some rain or an ice storm, followed by some snow, a two wheel drive tractor without chains becomes a dangerous hazard, because they can take off sideways just as quickly as forwards or backwards. Tire chains at least give a two wheel drive tractor a fighting chance
It makes a big difference where you are and the snow types you get too. Out here in the west, usually the snow is cold and dry and not all that slippery. I do just fine most of the time without chains on the back. I do run them on the front of my loader since I have a heavy blower on the front, and need more traction to steer it. Where you are at Bruce, the snow tends to be wetter and packs more and is slick. I grew up towards the East, and you didn’t do anything without chains on a tractor in winter.

Last year we had 2” of ice on Christmas Day. I was happy to be prepared even if I didn’t really want to drag out the heavy jewelry.

IMG_1815.jpeg
 
Finally got the 830 all ready for snow.

View attachment 98226
Bought the loader a couple months back, that's when the trouble started. It came with a dual valve, so I plumbed it in direct so I could have the remotes. What I didn't know and didn't check for, was a relief valve in that valve. It didn't have one. So the first time the cylinders bottomed, it blew one of the cylinders and the hydraulic pump. Lesson learned there. So got a different valve and replaced the pump and repaired the cylinder and that fixed that up. I had noticed the 3pt would settle down when the tractor was off, so I rebuilt the valve. That worked for a while, then quit again. So I bought a used valve and put that on. While doing that I dropped a piece of linkage down in the rear end, so that meant pulling the pto to get that out. Got that all back together and found the new valve was cracked and leaked. So then I decided to pull mine apart to see if I could find the problem. That was easy ti find.

View attachment 98228

That is pieces of the rubber O-ring that goes between the hydraulic pump and pickup tube. It's not from now, so someone must have dropped it into the pto housing at some time and the pump picked it up. Got that all cleaned out and everything works as it should now. I did clean out the rear housing when I had the pto off to get the part I dropped, so there was no more in there.
So what should have been a couple hours work was several days worth by the time I was done. But it seems to all work well now.
Jon, great job on fixing your 830. One good thing on those older tractors was they are fixable if the parts are available and you don't require a laptop with proprietary software to make it work after the repair. My brother's neighbor has about a 5 year old 100 HP MF tractor and it has had 3 transmission sensors fail since the warranty ended, the sensors are about $200 and can be changed by the owner BUT you must pay $700 for MF Tech to come out with laptop to enable the new sensor so the main computer will recognize it.
 
Jon, great job on fixing your 830. One good thing on those older tractors was they are fixable if the parts are available and you don't require a laptop with proprietary software to make it work after the repair. My brother's neighbor has about a 5 year old 100 HP MF tractor and it has had 3 transmission sensors fail since the warranty ended, the sensors are about $200 and can be changed by the owner BUT you must pay $700 for MF Tech to come out with laptop to enable the new sensor so the main computer will recognize it.
What a rip off !!
 
Is it a Case-O-Matic? I love my COM for use on the blower. So many old tractors have reverse gears too fast for a blower in heavy snow, and you're always either riding the clutch or working the brakes to let the blower digest when it gets backed up. With the COM in deep/tough snow, you just drop the lever into COM, keep the revs where you want them, and the torque-converter self-regulates the speed perfectly.
 
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Is it a Case-O-Matic? I love my COM for use on the blower. So many old tractors have reverse gears too fast for a blower in heavy snow, and you're always either riding the clutch or working the brakes to let the blower digest when it gets backed up. With the COM in deep/tough snow, you just drop the lever into COM, keep the revs where you want them, and it the torque-converter self-regulates the speed perfectly.
It is a com. Dad had a 730 without com that he used for blowing and it was just ok forbthe reasons you say. I'm hoping this works better.
 
Jon, great job on fixing your 830. One good thing on those older tractors was they are fixable if the parts are available and you don't require a laptop with proprietary software to make it work after the repair. My brother's neighbor has about a 5 year old 100 HP MF tractor and it has had 3 transmission sensors fail since the warranty ended, the sensors are about $200 and can be changed by the owner BUT you must pay $700 for MF Tech to come out with laptop to enable the new sensor so the main computer will recognize it.
what to you expect, from the "MF" tech? Just living up to their initials.
 

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