Need some advise from those who have pushed snow with an 8n.

I have a 7 foot plow blade that was used on a Willys jeep pu, and want to use it on the front of the my 8n.

Is this too big of a plow for an 8n? if so, what size would be better 6" or 6 1/2"?

Thanks,
John
 
Shopteacher---the plow that was designed for the 8N is a 6 footer....made by Dearborn or Arps.

This is a pic of my Dearborn that works very well for plowing snow (with wheel weights, loaded tires, chains, or a combo of all).
a138842.jpg


Dearborn also made a V-Plow for the 8N's that must weigh a lot more than the dozer type blade that I have, so, if you have no other choice, maybe the 8N will handle the 7 footer you have.

Tim
 
I'd say use what you got. It might depend on how deep is the snow and how big of bite you try to take out of it. You will need wheel weights and/or filled tires and chains. If you find it just won't work then you can always cut it down some.
 
I use a 6ft Dearborn plow on my 8N. It works fine with most snow up to about 10 inches or so. The problem is traction. I use pie weights and chains on my 12.4X28 turf tires. I can plow down hill OK, but uphill is a challenge. Wet snow complicates everything.

I think 7 ft would work OK. In any case, I would use what I had. Go for it. Worst case is that you could cut 6 inches on each side.
 
I have a Sauder snow plow on my 8N which works fairly well (far better than the rear mount I was using).

I would think the plow you have would work well, once you got it mounted on the tractor.

You *will* need weight on the back of the tractor for it to work well tho....

Howard
Sauder D7 snow plow
 
Nice looking plow and tractor Howard. Great to hear the Sauder is working well for you. I just picked one up for my 660. Just waiting for the first snow. Thanks for the pictures.
 
I say try it.
A 6' blade when angled barely covers the tire tracks. An extra 6" would push the snow away a little farther and be a little less scary when trying to plow close to a ditch, etc.
 
John.......it ain't the size of the plow, ittza TRACTION!!! Surprizingly enuff, rubber ag-bars don't provide much traction on compacted snow. ONLY CHAINS provide traction. Caution: many chains gitt stuck down between the rubber ag-bars. 2-fixes. "diamond" ring tractor chains ...or... more ladder bars. Summ times you can gitt "free" chains from over-the-road trucker companys. (cut-to-fit) Their attorneys make'um change chains to prevent "law-suits". Me, when it snows, I stay home. Simple, eh? .......chainless Dell who wears arctic "Carr-Harts" to keep warm when plowing
 
It'll be fine
chains, filled tires, counterweights, and momentum are
key with the little tractors in real snow
small bites and the blade angled in tough snow
toughest for me is plowing my way out of the shed
once free, where I can get rolling...much better
if you live in snow country, you already know it depends on the
snow.
10 degrees out with 2 feet of fresh powder is easy.
30 degrees out with 6 inches of wet snow is an impossible
tire spinning mess
 
Mine uses a pipe frame made by Arps.

The frame pivots on angle brackets mounted under the rear axle. Same type of angle iron as the ones used for current replacement stabilizer brackets.

KDM_4465.jpg


The front is suspended under the axle on cables, and kept centered by brackets.

IMG00045-20100305-1314.jpg


KDM_1908.jpg


The cables run to the rear, over the pulleys, and attaches to a bar over the lift arms.

That help at all?

Kurt
 
Hi Kurt, great photos. I have the same frame with different front brackets. Mine have no pulleys on the brackets , but there are pulleys on both the front and rear of the frame. The front brackets just guide the frame up and down.

Do you have a picture of the rear bar hook up? Mine did not come with anything for the rear. The PO took the 3 point arms off and attached the cables directly to the lift arms.

Thanks,

Nate

PS: Sorry for the hijack..
 
Hi Nate,

Mine didn't come with the rear bar to attach it the lift arms either. I just used a piece of 5/8 or 3/4" rod, placed it across the lift arms mid point. I put the cable over the rod outboard of the lift arms. I used 3/4" washers on each side of the cable, then cross drilled some holes and installed some lynch pins to trap the cables.

Hope that makes sense, Jeff in NY did something similar, but he put the rod back at the end of the lift arms. Both seemed to work just fine.

Hope this helps, and yes I think we have hijacked a thread.

Kurt
 
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