Solenoid on starter?

[Carden]

Anyone ever replaced the starter button for a solenoid on a Farmall M? I care not about keeping it original (it wasn't when I bought it) but I'm thinking it would make the starting process much easier.

 

[rustyfarmall]

My 1940 M has been converted to 12 volts with an alternator. It has a Ford 12 volt solenoid mounted on the starter, and a push button starter switch mounted in the bracket that did house the original push button manual starter switch.

 

[Bob M]

The previous owner did exactly that to my '53 Super H.

From my perspective the solenoid offers a couple advantages over the manual switch:

1 - With the solenoid located on the starter you have a shorter cable run for the ungrounded battery cable (= less voltage loss = faster cranking speed)

2 - Unlike the semi-exposed contacts in the OEM manual starter switch, the contacts inside a sealed solenoid seem to hold up much better. Seems I must replace at least one manual starter switch on my other tractors every year. But I have yet had to replace the solenoid on the SH. (Also my '47 Minnie Mo UTU still has the OEM solenoid on it - still working great 60 years after it left the factory!)

Only downside is you must have a starter with a threaded terminal stud. Farmall starters with a saddle-mount starter switch have a copper button terminal instead of a stud - there's no simple way to attach a cable to this style of starter...

 

[John T]

If I had my "druthers" n didnt give a hoot about the Correct Police I would use one of the later dash mounted rubber covered/sealed "Push to Start" switches PLUS I would also have an On/Off key type Ignition Switch wired such that turning it on energized the ignition coil PLUS fed voltage to the Push to Start switch so the key must be ON before the Push to Start switch can energize the starter solenoid. Id use the old Ford type starter solenoid with the 2 big posts for battery cable n starter n the 2 little terminals S (solenoid activation served by the Push to Start) and I (to by pass any ballast resistor if you had a 12 volt tractor n 6 volt coil)

Although the original type push/pull ignition switch could still be used and wired as above where it had to be ON to energize the Push to Start switch (and coil of course), I think a key is just safer .........

I consider that (On/Off key PLUS Push to Start) the safest n best method but if your starter only has the surface post like used for mechanical saddle mount switches that Bob was talkin about maybe you can ahve it adeapted for a threaded stud???????

I also agree 100% this will give better performance n less maintenance then the older push button contact or saddle mount starter switches HANDS DOWN

John T

 

[Hayfarmer]

I converted my SMTA to a button soon after I got it. A guy who repairs starters and such, removed the contact from the original setup and soldered a starter bolt in it's place. I use a Ford type solenoid mounted near the starter. I like the setup, seemed like I had trouble with the original switch going bad or the contact getting corroded or misshapen. Anyway it worked for me. Prior to converting my tractor to electronic ignition, I used the 6 volt coil with a resister. With the Ford solenoid you can bypass the resister for starting.

 

[Bob M]

(quoted from post at 09:55:38 09/05/07) if your starter only has the surface post like used for mechanical saddle mount switches that Bob was talkin about maybe you can have it adeapted for a threaded stud???????
John T

John T - Changing a starter from a terminal button to a threaded terminal stud requires going inside the starter, then unsoldering/resoldering a couple very heavy copper strap connections. It's not something a hack like me can do with my trusty old Weller soldering gun - special heavy duty soldering tools are required!

My local starter/alternator shop did one for me a few years ago - cost was around $20 as I recall...

Bob M

 

[old]

Yep you can BTDT more then once on a good number of tractors. Just use a simple ford type solinoid and a common key type ignition switch simple to wire up and works just find.
Hobby farm

 

[Allan in NE]

By the very nature of the way the M's starter is built, it cannot be done.

Like a lot of these guys here have said, you can use a Ford electrical "relay" switch, but that is not a solenoid by any stretch of the imigination.

A solenoid is a totally different bird.

Allan

 

[John T]

Allan, I agree, fer sure a lot of people use the words "Solenoid" and "Relay" etc. fairly loose on these tractor boards. On those large can style so called "Solenoids" they perform two functions, FIRST an electromagnet pulls a lever to engage/push the starter drive gear in mesh with the flywheel ring gear PLUS AFTER SHES ENGAGED the "relay contacts" close so the starter has voltage necessary for cranking. Thats analogous to the mechanical type saddle switches where on a Deere for instance stepping on a pedal or pulling a lever etc first engages the drive gear and at the bottom of the pedal/lever travel the switch closes to give voltage to the starter.

On the smaller Ford type "Solenoids" they close an electrical set of contacts ONLY and the starter (like on many IHC tractors) uses a bendix inertia type of drive to engage the drive gear into the flywheel. At about any auto parts store Ive ever been to EITHER are still referred to as "Solenoids" however.

Im with Bob, converting a post type starter over to a stud type for connecting to a cable versus saddle switch use is something left done for a starter shop versus us do it your selfers lol Still if the starter uses a bendix inertia type of drive it can work fine cuz the bendix will engage REGARDLESS if a solenoid or a saddle switch gets voltage to the starter

PS The banjo lessons are still fun, I can play Cripple Creek wooooo hooooooo lol

Yall take care now

John T