Solid State Ignition- no spark

[PeteRose]

1970 Wheel Horse charger 12- k301s. It is solid state ignition and I do not believe it has spark.

I took the plug out and kept it on the wire, and put the plug on bare metal on engine. I than turned the engine over and saw no spark between the plug gap. It was cloudy out when I did this, but I still think I would have seen it. I did feel a little spark by accident in my hand though while holding it, but not much. What could it be? New spark plug? Or what else?

I need this for snow plowing in winter, so it is something I"d like to fix now, unless it is something just crazy like an engine rebuild. Any help appreciated. Thanks and G-d Bless!

 

[Bob]

Check the spark with a new sparkplug or a spark tester. If no spark, below is a link to the factory Kohler K-series manual, complete with EI troubleshooting information that will walk you through troubleshooting it.

A simple thing to do first is to disconnect the "kill" wire at the engine, then check for spark again. If that wire or the ignition switch are shorted or "leaky" (moisture/corrosion/rust) energy will be bled off from the capacitive discharge EI system, making for a weak spark or no spark at all.

WHATEVER you do, NEVER feed battery voltage into the ignition system (IF it is an EI, as you say) or you will KILL it!
Kohler factory manual

 

[El Toro]

My former co-worker had the same problem and he converted his to conventional points and battery ignition with coil. There should be a place on the front of the engine to install points. Hal

 

[oldironman]

If it is a solid state ignition buy Kolor then you will find that the price for parts will shock you more than the spark plug.

 

[gab]

If you decide you,ve got an electronic ign. problem, you can convert it with a coil, ign switch,points, condensor, points plunger, cover and 4 screws and maybe a couple feet of wire. The price of this stuff is very reasonable and you could get it all off of a junk yard tractor with a Kohler engine.
I had to do this to an old Wheel Horse of mine about twenty years ago.

.

 

[PeteRose]

Bob, I"ll try that out. Thanks.
OldIronMan, yes, I hear parts are expensive and I fear the worst.

As for switching iginiton type, thanks both of you. If I switch, will I need a new coil, or just use the coil that is already on there?

Do you know where exactly it is for the points, El Toro?

 

[PeteRose]

And El Toro, what do you mean by the front? I assume it is the caruburetor side. If not, is it the flywheel side, starter side, or 4th side?

 

[joe csuti]

Look to the left of cam gear cover(carb side of eng),there should be a series of 5 vertical holes in block,from top moving downward,1 & 2 holes are tapped for point cover & points,#3 is offset for point push pin(may not be a hole,a dowel pin is usually driven into same flush with block & driven out of hole when converting to points),#4 &5 are tapped for points & cover.You can't use existing coil with point type ign,as gab said you can get these parts off old engines,several point sets,cover & coils listed on ebay,if you get lucky you may be able to use old ign sw,if not you need a sw for battery ign & will have to change sol to ford style,add a push button to dash or add a relay to provide 12v to coil when cranking eng,it won't be a quick/simple job converting solid state ign to points,it will also be somewhat expensive,if you buy a new complete conversion kit either from online dealers/kohler price will be $120-$130 + shipping without figureing in any other parts if needed(new ign sw,sol,relay or push button)there are several used trigger modules listed on ebay for solid state ign,coils you'll have to look for,first you have to troubleshoot ign system to find out what you need.

 

[El Toro]

The area for the points is on the right upper side of the engine that faces the front of the tractor when you're sitting on the seat. Look for the holes that Joe described for the points cover. If you need a Ford solenoid I bought this one at our local auto parts store for $10.00. Hal

 

[El Toro]

This wiring diagram will give you some good tips on how to wire your ignition using points. Since you have an electric starter you can disregard the starter/generator wiring. Hal

 

[PeteRose]

You fella"s will have to excuse me. You know, Joe, I am just an amateur. A kid looking for a hobby and to make his own money with his own equipment.

Now, I do not doubt that I can do this, I am just hearing many things. For the points cover, yes, I see the 5 holes. They do not sound in the path that you are stating Joe, but without a doubt they are right where you said they were.

$130 for the conversion kit?!?! NEVER!!!! I would not pay that money.

At tractor supply today, I saw a 12volt coil for $27. (I need 12 volt, right? Not 6?). Points and condensor should not cost more than $15 for this conversion, I can only assume. I have wire here in my garage and the end pieces I need will be cheap, as I have checked them out already. Say I have to pay $5 for a points cover.

That is a total of about $50. Where does $130 come into play? If I buy each part individualy, will it not give me the same results? The only difference I see is that the wire length might be a little bit long.

So, in a nutshell, you guys are telling me to get a 12v coil, points and cover, condensor, possible solenoid(which I am not sure what that is and where it comes into play), and possible new ignition switch. Is that correct? I will use that diagram, El Toro. Do you suggest that I get a solenoid anyway?

Could this whole thing just be a bad switch in the first place? It is original, key is loose, and not in great condition. Yet it does work to turn the engine over.

Lastly, if I switch(I am starting to think that I will), will I have to take the flywheel off and take those wires out? Or just disconnect the wires on that electronic piece just outside the flywheel? I hope you know whatt I mean by this.

You guys are a great help, Thanks. Let me know, too, please.

 

[Bob]

You also need the mounting bracket for the points (some new points come WITH the bracket, some don't) and also the "pin" that operates the points of of an extra cam on the camshaft.

You have to remove a little steel "cup plug" from the hole for the pin.

Starting a sheet metal screw into the plug and yanking it out with a ViseGrip will do the job.

Make SURE you get a coil that needs NO external resistor, a Genuine Kohler coil is even better.

 

[PeteRose]

Thanks Bob, I have not been told all of those things before. I appeciate it.

My friend said he will come over and look at it before I convert it, he knows ALL about this stuff. I try to figure it out on my own though, so A)I learn it and learn it hopefully for good, and B)So I stop bothering him so much, haha.