Sources 4 used or new wide market parts for baler an haybine

[fastline]

I am trying to source a few parts. Mostly for my Hesston 1014 hydroswing that needs some repairs. I found from one local parts source that the first part number I threw at him he said was used on a bunch of stuff and had one in stock for 85 bucks for a sprocket.

That really got me thinking if I can find a better source for parts to order them since I will probably replace several. I am not sure how you would cross reference the numbers though? It looked like a pretty special sprocket to me but apparently not as far as haybine parts go.

Also, there a couple parts on this machine I could certainly take as used parts. Anyone know where I can get used parts for this machine? Is it even worth it? In know on CAT parts, deals want 50% of new when their ain't 50% life left.

 

[dcarp]

Here's a link to a salvage yard in Waco, TX. Shows that they have 3 Hesston 1014's. I've used them for parts for my baler. They pulled the parts off the salvage unit. & had them ready for me. I'd use them again if I had to.
Punch this

 

[Zachary Hoyt]

For sprockets I would try Burden's Surplus Center in Nebraska.
They have a whole page or two in their catalog and their prices are
way low.
Zach

 

[Hogleg]

I matched some sprockets for my Vermeer baler at McMaster. If you know the tooth spacing and the bore you may be able to fine them there. You can determine the tooth dimensions by reading the specs on the chains that run on them. Then it is just width and bore/key size.

If you think about it, it is a lot easier for some of these manufacturers to source common parts rather than have all of them fabricated unique to the design. Well, at least the smart engineers will build that way :?

John

 

[Don-Wi]

I know Hesston uses lots of sprockets with tapered keys, and those keys being the only thing that holds the sprocket tight on the shaft. Not saying you can't replace them with the typical key & set screw type, just that's not what Hesston used.

I used to work at a machine shop that was an OEM supplier to AGCO and have made plenty of sprockets for them. For most, you can either build your own by buying the sprocket you need and getting the weld in hub that matches the bore & key you have, or a machine shop can cut the old one off and replace it with one of those weld on sprockets. We did that plenty of times for the local farmers, and I still go out there once in a while to have them do it for me.

Where are you located?

Donovan from Wisconsin

 

[fastline]

(quoted from post at 16:00:43 03/16/13) I know Hesston uses lots of sprockets with tapered keys, and those keys being the only thing that holds the sprocket tight on the shaft. Not saying you can't replace them with the typical key & set screw type, just that's not what Hesston used.

I used to work at a machine shop that was an OEM supplier to AGCO and have made plenty of sprockets for them. For most, you can either build your own by buying the sprocket you need and getting the weld in hub that matches the bore & key you have, or a machine shop can cut the old one off and replace it with one of those weld on sprockets. We did that plenty of times for the local farmers, and I still go out there once in a while to have them do it for me.

Where are you located?

Donovan from Wisconsin

LOL. We are actually a machine shop and have made stuff for AGCO!

I did not realize the key in the sprockets were tapered and was the only retention. However, I did notice that one of the roasted sprockets is due to another sprocket walking on the shaft and not running the chain true. You bet I would look to solve that problem. Maybe just drill/tap the hub for a set screw. I have no problem making adjustments to parts but will admit that sometimes even with a machine shop, it does not make financial sense to do too much there.


In general, I REALLY appreciate the replies and keep them coming! I like to have a list of resources and contacts when something goes bad. I actually found a company 1 mile from me that carries ALL this stuff. A little pricy but if it gets down to D day, I know where I can get parts!!

 

[Don-Wi]

The way those tapered keys are supposed to work is this-

You get the sprocket in place where you want it, insert the tapered gib key, and hit it with a BFH to lock it in place. To loosen, you're supposed to be able to hit the sprocket away from the key, pull the key out, then slide the sprocket off. Most of the time, they're rusted so it becomes a battle to get them off. Our 1014+2 when we bought it had a few sprockets that came loose, and the prev. owner just tried welding them in place. That didn't work either, and then I had to grind weld off before I could even get the sprockets off. I replaced them with a standard key & set screw style hub.

I haven't worked at that shop in almost 7 years now. Just 5 guys in the shop, but we'd crank out hundreds/thousands of sprockets each week for various mfg's. AGCO was by far the biggest acount.

Donovan from Wisconsin

 

[fastline]

(quoted from post at 08:30:49 03/17/13)

To loosen, you're supposed to be able to hit the sprocket away from the key, pull the key out, then slide the sprocket off. Most of the time, they're rusted so it becomes a

Donovan from Wisconsin

And then you brinell the ball bearings in the process. Hammer and bearings just don't mix. NOT a real great idea but I guess it might have been back then.

 

[fastline]

I am curious, with the above sources or others, how and where do you get more universal sprockets? IE, a 23T for #60 chain with a 1" bore and .25" key?

I am very interested in changing over any sprocket I remove to a universal set screw type.

Were the keyway broaches tapered as well?

 

[Don-Wi]

Around here TSC has a small selection of sprockets with a fairly standard bore in the middle, and then hubs with different bores, keys, etc... Fleet Farm has a better selection, and most dealers have a fair selection of those sprockets as well. Much easier to stock 12 different #60 sprockets wtih different tooth counts, and 5 different bore size hubs, and from there you have 60 different combinations of hub & sprocket.

One thing I think you may run in to, is that Hesston with thier tapered keys are bigger than the standard key, ie a 1" bore takes 1 1/4" key, a 1 1/2 may use a 5/16, where Hesston may use a 3/8 where the industry standard would use a 5/16.

To broach a tapered key, we'd just turn a plug and cut it/weld it at an angle, then mill a slot in it so the hub went on the plug pointing upward a little, yet the broach pulled through straight. (we used a pull broach for these and most other keys, as we could set it up and run it faster than broaching by hand with a press)

I wouldn't worry much about wrecking a bearing with a few good licks on the sprocket on the end of the shaft. I would say it works best to have something that fits over the shaft to beat on so you are beating on the whole hub, instead of just one spot on the sprocket. Besides, if it actually gives like it should, there won't be much of a shock load once it gets to the bearing. Polish the shaft with some emory cloth first, then if it does move, polish the outside so it slides off easier.

Shoup has some of these weld together sprockets & hubs too.

Donovan from Wisconsin

 

[Hogleg]

Like I said, McMaster Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#roller-chain-sprockets

Here is the catalog number of one that fits your specs - 6280K386 $53 bucks.

could not get a page url. Go to the sprockets, select steel finished bore sprockets for ansi chain, then use side bar to select 60 chain, 1in bore and 23 tooth. That easy...

John