Spark Plug for Case 300B?

My plugs could use replacement. When I took one out it looked to be a Champion D2 but the lettering was worn.

Could someone help me out and tell me what plug I should order from this site?

Thanks,
Rob
 
My plugs could use replacement. When I took one out it looked to be a Champion D2 but the lettering was worn.

Could someone help me out and tell me what plug I should order from this site?

Thanks,
Rob
Some may argue, but the only Plug I recommend for your tractor is an Autolite 3116. It is a Non-Resistor, Power Tip. Where's Klyde???
 
The local auto parts store showed having Autolite 3116 in stock but when I got there, they only had NGK. I got 4 of those but have Autolite 3116 coming from Ebay.

Is it worth putting the NGK in?

Thanks for all the help here. The plug boots are firmly stuck on the plugs so a set of wires is also on the way from this site. The tractor was my Uncles and when he moved we bought it to keep it in the family. But its not starting as easily as we'd like so plugs were I first goto and they did not look very healthy.
 
While I prefer the 3116 as john suggested I have run NGK in pulling applications without any problems. The 386 Autolite is good also but 3116s are extended tip, whatever gain that may make may or may not be noticable.
 
While I prefer the 3116 as john suggested I have run NGK in pulling applications without any problems. The 386 Autolite is good also but 3116s are extended tip, whatever gain that may make may or may not be noticable.

Here we go, why do I even bother? Difference between 386 & 3116 is night and day. When switching to the 3116 Plug, you will add another hour to the fuel tank. Add another bottom to the plows. The engine will run like it was just overhauled. In conditions where a 386 will foul, the 3116 will not foul.


While I prefer the 3116 as john suggested I have run NGK in pulling applications without any problems. The 386 Autolite is good also but 3116s are extended tip, whatever gain that may make may or may not be noticable.
 
Here we go, why do I even bother? Difference between 386 & 3116 is night and day. When switching to the 3116 Plug, you will add another hour to the fuel tank. Add another bottom to the plows. The engine will run like it was just overhauled. In conditions where a 386 will foul, the 3116 will not foul.
Yup, here we go. D16 ‘s were the old go to but D18Y’s are the little bit hotter projected tip like the China junk 3116. Never could figure out why I could have a good hook going and foul 2 brand new 3116 plugs at the same time. Back to the pits screw in 4 old D18Y’s and have it run like a racehorse. Guess if you’re a Ford boy and it says Autolite it’s got to be the best. BS
 
Yup, here we go. D16 ‘s were the old go to but D18Y’s are the little bit hotter projected tip like the China junk 3116. Never could figure out why I could have a good hook going and foul 2 brand new 3116 plugs at the same time. Back to the pits screw in 4 old D18Y’s and have it run like a racehorse. Guess if you’re a Ford boy and it says Autolite it’s got to be the best. BS
Gheeze Klyde!! Hope you threw that bowl of Corn Flakes out that got pssassad on!! I've solved so many engine problems by getting customers to swap out their Champs w/ Autolites, that I don't know if I could ever talk them back to Champs. You are correct, Autolites that were once made in the USA are now made over there. Seriously, now, are the Champs made in the USA?
 
I can't see how plug brand would matter on something like a 70 yr old tractor. As long as it's the correct heat range any brand will be fine
 
Chris, I worked in the industry for 50 + years under the same Case dealership roof, in the 60s-70s When the federal government mandated a change in fuel composition to deal with NOX emissions we had a definite problem with fouling soon after tune ups using Champs. When service calls are costing you the money to correct this issue, we did what we had to solve a nagging problem, we went to Autolite and never looked back. this was not a once in a while thing. Autolite plugs are not junk, I won't spend one minute in that discussion! We solved our problem with a simple plug brand change, I use them in my competition builds and have a 4 5/8 DC stock stroke making 125 using 3116 usually no plug changes in a season, I have noticed that most people in those discussions using Champs are using several heat ranges higher than the recommended D16s, when we used Champs we ran D15Y which was the extended tip style and they worked well in their day. NGK plugs are a high-quality product used in many applications, Polaris used them in snow equipment, and it would not surprise me that most Jap and other auto brands and handheld equipment of Oriental build probably do also. It seemed like the Champ plugs were a bit cold for the new gas formulation and if we had moved up to a higher heat range we may have solved our issue.
 
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