spark plug for cyclone A

[swindave]

what's your favorite spark plug for the late styled, gas, cyclone model A
is there much difference in plugs?
thank you!

 

[Leroy]

Autolite but don't rember number but hottest we could get and ran them all the time even for all the heavay tillage in the 49 B, 50 AR and 51 A. Champion was the worst put new plugs in in the morning, clean at noon, repeat next day, repeat again next day. Changed brands to a TSC plug and did not have to touch plugs for over two years.

 

[Loosehandle]

AC C88L. But they seem to have changed recently and are shorter.

 

[John T]

For an 18MM Plug I prefer Autolite 388 as its a tad hotter than 386, but if it has a Magneto Ignition I prefer a NON Resistor plug like 3116

What oil or plugs to use IS A WIDE OPEN QUESTION with lots of opinions ALL OF WHICH ARE THE BEST, to each their own

John T

 

[DR. EVIL]

Leroy- Your problem with Champion plugs has to be with the tractor you put them in. I have Champion D-15Y plugs in my FARMALL SUPER H, I installed them sometime in the mid-1980's, tractor is used to push snow in winter, cold, sometimes below Zero, and also move tree branches in summer, lots of idling, still have an IH made condenser and points in the distributor too. A COLD start in the winter takes about 2 seconds of cranking time at full choke.
DAD had a couple Deere's, first one was a '49 R diesel, typical starting assist was a FARMALL M and a stout log chain, we always parked it so we could pull start it. A '40 styled B was next, for a chore tractor, Armstrong start, biggest chore was getting it to start, most times we unhooked it, pushed out of the way and used a FARMALL. Last Deere was a 4010-D. It got pull started a couple times, had a spell one summer every trip to the field ended with me walking back to the house and a trip to the dealership for the 4010. Dad paid $3600 for it, a '63 4010-D, wide frt end, factory rear tires about 50%, sheetmetal was faded but no dents, supposedly used a little oil, or 5 quarts per tank of fuel plowing. IT GOT 4 brand new tires and a repaint before it's first minute of fieldwork. And it needed new batteries every 2-3 years, draft control bar seals, complete overhaul, couple new waterpumps, easily spent over $4000 on repairs & replacements, AND still only got $3500 for it when Dad sold it. COULD have had a brand new 806 Diesel for less.

 

[MSD]

NGK AB-6

 

[RLA]

A tractor that doesn't start is worthless no matter what color it is. I grew up with John Deere's & In the winter we would get a call
to run down to the neighbors to pull start his Farmall H or His M so he could spread manure. I never worked on either one but if you pull
started them within 6' they were running. Most 2 cylinders very little throttle & full choke when cold starting. But we have a Model B if
you choked it, it would never start, my A will start no matter how cold if the engine turns fires first time over. We have M B A 420 CRAWLER, 53 model 60, 54 60, 58 620, 530, 630, 2 730 diesels, The pony start 730 will start easy, the electric we just put it away for winter, I don't like to wait for the block heater. 2755 4wd & a 3255 4wd. If they are tuned right & the person stating them know's the tractor it sure is a big help.

 

[fixerupper]

Depending on how you use the tractor either Champion (gasp) D18 or D21 or the equivalent heat in another brand. We always used AC's back in the day when the two lungers were used hard and often but I forget the number on the plug. A few years ago I fell into a big bunch of new Champion plugs so I have been using the Champions. D21's seem to work without fouling on the 51 A. It is not used heavy and hard and these 21's have lasted many years. The 630 gets worked harder so I put D18's in it and have not had to replace a plug for any reason. D16's or the equivalent will probably foul with todays gasoline in a tractor that is not worked hard. A poorly tuned tractor might react different to these plugs. The Champions might foul quicker than other brands if used in a tractor that is an oil burner, then again maybe not.

 

[Leroy]

Three DIFFERENT tractors working in same field at same time so how would all three tractors be bad in same way? I know at that time nobody wanted a Champion plug as everybody was having problems. AC acted same way, just not quite as bad. After no longer could get the TSC plug the Autolight never made any problems either in any of the three tractors.

 

[coonie minnie]

I knew a neighbor who had an F20 that would never run on Champion plugs...

 

[Glen D Anderson]

I'd be lying if I said I had never posted information on a thread before that wasn't completely relevant to the OP's original question or statement but, damn, that's an interesting tangent you just went on there......

So, is the moral of the story don't buy Deere if you want to run Champion plugs or just don't run Deere period because of their inadequacies or both? LOL

(quoted from post at 08:24:21 02/19/22) Leroy- Your problem with Champion plugs has to be with the tractor you put them in. I have Champion D-15Y plugs in my FARMALL SUPER H, I installed them sometime in the mid-1980's, tractor is used to push snow in winter, cold, sometimes below Zero, and also move tree branches in summer, lots of idling, still have an IH made condenser and points in the distributor too. A COLD start in the winter takes about 2 seconds of cranking time at full choke.
DAD had a couple Deere's, first one was a '49 R diesel, typical starting assist was a FARMALL M and a stout log chain, we always parked it so we could pull start it. A '40 styled B was next, for a chore tractor, Armstrong start, biggest chore was getting it to start, most times we unhooked it, pushed out of the way and used a FARMALL. Last Deere was a 4010-D. It got pull started a couple times, had a spell one summer every trip to the field ended with me walking back to the house and a trip to the dealership for the 4010. Dad paid $3600 for it, a '63 4010-D, wide frt end, factory rear tires about 50%, sheetmetal was faded but no dents, supposedly used a little oil, or 5 quarts per tank of fuel plowing. IT GOT 4 brand new tires and a repaint before it's first minute of fieldwork. And it needed new batteries every 2-3 years, draft control bar seals, complete overhaul, couple new waterpumps, easily spent over $4000 on repairs & replacements, AND still only got $3500 for it when Dad sold it. COULD have had a brand new 806 Diesel for less.

 

[55deere70]

All this anecdotal evidence...Proper diagnosis goes a long way. I feel spark plugs catch the blame for poorly adjusted carburetors, over choking, improper starting methods, plugged air cleaners, and every other poorly running engine. I myself have had decent results with nearly every brand I've used, but then my tractors don't have any of the aforementioned problems.

 

[forty40]

Favorite spark plug? May as well ask for a favorite dessert, best state to live in, or the best pickup truck.