Spark Regularity

[G6 at Snook, TX]

If watching an 8n 6v Sidemount EI fire with a spark testing device, how often should it fire, and more importantly, should it be consistent?

My assumption is that it should fire 1243 if you could see all plugs with superman vision and they all should be firing consistently for length fire and intensity. What is saw yesterday was not consistent on plug wire #4 . The wires are new pre-cut from sparex, but I am no longer certain they are copper core and I assume that is causing number 4 to be wet and fouled. The spark was white, not quite the blue that the other 8ns I throw.

Any possibility that sticking valves can cause this problem?

Edit: The plug wires are Sparex pre-cut stainless mag. I guess I need the copper core.

 

[dont_know_nothing]

If the new wires are copper core, you will easily see strands of copper wire in the end of the wire. If you are not sure, strip the rubber back.
Any doubt, I"d replace them...

Valves have no effect on your spark...

 

[GB in MT.]

[b:9a4b5e7ade][i:9a4b5e7ade]
D..K..N..;
You say:... "Valves have no effect on your spark..."

That is a pretty broad statement....JMO!!!
Sticky valve....loss of compression....not enough fire on wet and fouled #4 cylinder!!!!!

Spark...fuel...compession, gotta have it all, before a cylinder, can fire, properly!!!

Gary [/i:9a4b5e7ade][/b:9a4b5e7ade]

 

[souNdguy]

valves DO have effect on spark.

valve hold compression. the more compression the harder it is for the spark to jump the gap, thus more KV builds up before jumping.

simple physiscs??????

soundguy

 

[dont_know_nothing]

OK, I correct myself...

Valves have nothing to do with spark when you have the plugs out looking at the spark on the plug...

 

[Dell (WA)]

Snookie.......unlike the 4-nipple frontmount, you can put a sparkie tester in the 5-nipple sidemount "center wire" between the center nipple and the roundcan nipple. Doesn't matter which end of the center wire you place yer sparkie tester. Close to the center nipple or close to the roundcan coil nipple, mox-nix.

And YES, yer sparkie jumps should be consistent. I'm assuming yer just checking while cranking yer starter motor, ignition switch ON. My eazy starting 6-volt 52-8N with POINTS, will jump a full 3/8"-gap. Yer EI "might" jump 1/2"-gap but I would NOT BET on it.

While Sparex sells alotta Fergy parts, sparkie wires are sparkie wires. Unless the Sparex box? bag? braggs about stainless center conductor, bett'cha they are "tinned" copper wire. Tinning can look like stainless. Tinning is used to prevent copper from corroding and causing weak sparkies.

As fer fouling on yer #4 sparkie, that could be caused by BAD piston rings as well as weak sparkies from bad sparkie wires. Have you done the dreaded compression test for engine condition??? ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Dell and et. al.,

To answer the question regarding the plug wires wires state on them that they are "Magstar Gold 7mm Hi Performance s-4 Stainless Steel Mag Wire".
I guess I need to use copper instead.

I will give it a quick test again this afternoon and report back the earliest tidings and if need be give it a compression test.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 14:10:38 07/14/10)
Dell and et. al.,

To answer the question regarding the plug wires wires state on them that they are "Magstar Gold 7mm Hi Performance s-4 Stainless Steel Mag Wire".
I guess I need to use copper instead.

I will give it a quick test again this afternoon and report back the earliest tidings and if need be give it a compression test.

on't improve with copper.

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

Okay,

Ran the tractor again this afternoon. I tested the spark and regularity with an inline light and it showed regular spark and spark strength. Hooked everything back up again and took it out for an hour in 95 degree heat mowing bahia grass ( a thick pernicious grass) and it worked reasonably well. The tractor ran smoothly and had good power, but when it would go under load I did hear some chatter from the motor, but not constant chatter.

I need to do a compression test to find out exact pressure.

If I pull the valve covers do I use gaskets and goop (which goop, if so) or just gaskets when I put on the covers back on? I will use Gary's method of lubing the valves.

Thanks.

 

[GB in MT.]

[b:6de022ec2f][i:6de022ec2f]
NDG;
You ask:.....
If I pull the valve covers do I use gaskets and goop (which goop, if so) or just gaskets when I put on the covers back on? I will use Gary's method of lubing the valves.

When you first take the covers off, clean them up real good, and make sure they are not bent anywhere! Especially around the gasket flange edges. Make sure the cover middle area is raised around where the cover bolt comes through, so it will tighten up the cover to the block!, and do not tighten the nuts down supper tight! That will bend the cover and keep it from sealing the gasket.
Use "form-a-gasket on the gaskets, next to the cover....thin coat to hold the gasket in place, and let it set up, before installing! No goop needed on the gaskets next to the block!! Just dry gasket and dry CLEAN, block.
Works for me!!!!! Should work for you. I used carb cleaner to clean up the block area, then wipe down with a clean dry rag.

Good luck, and let me know how that works for ya, after you cleanup the valves!!! The valve cleaning thingy, will NOT replace a valve job, but maybe give ya more time before you have to do a valve job!!!!
Can't hurt!!!!

Gary [/i:6de022ec2f][/b:6de022ec2f]