spin on oil filter adaptor lines

Abbby

Member
Can someone explain the process for installing one of these oil filter adaptors on a 9N? My main concern is the oil lines. Will both need to be replaced and if so what line did you purchase to make it work? How about routing the front line. seems I remember that being very tight fit. Thanks in advance.
mvphoto74988.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 10:25:58 05/09/21) Can someone explain the process for installing one of these oil filter adaptors on a 9N? My main concern is the oil lines. Will both need to be replaced and if so what line did you purchase to make it work? How about routing the front line. seems I remember that being very tight fit. Thanks in advance.
mvphoto74988.jpg

Process is pretty simple - measure, buy, cut, bend and flare. Biggest question is does your 9N currently have the block drain or the governor oil line?

TOH
 
In addition to the lines, there are a few other things to consider. I've never had a problem w/ the wet filter; they are readily available & inexpensive. (see
tip # 64 for 15 different part numbers).


It's the same filter used on some Porsche & Mercedes engines. Wet/cartridge style filters are now used in majority of heavy duty diesel equipment (Caterpillar,
Detroit, Perkins, Cummins, etc.) If they are good enough for the most powerful diesel engines on the market, they are more than good enough for a 23 hp N
tractor
.
I honestly do not see a need to replace a superior filter w/ one of lesser quality just because it drips oil when you change it.


If you decide to do this, make 100% what you get will work on the N tractor. This isn't a car or truck. The adapter should have a 1/16 (.062) diameter orifice
built in to prevent the filter from robbing more than its fair share of oil from the rest of the system and maintaining oil pressure.


What I do is remove the canister from the tractor on the very first oil change & give it a good cleaning. You'd be surprised at the tar in the bottom of those
things.


And, if the canister does not have a drain plug (and 8N's made after s/n 269,530 do not) I buy a new canister .


https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/articles/artint268.htm
75 Tips
 
/quote]

The fittings shown are "inverted flare" as used on pre-metric automotive brake lines.

You can buy pre-made lengths of 5/16' brake line at auto parts stores.

By selecting a length that's close to what you need you can avoid having to cut and flare.

(Flaring steel line takes a special "double flaring" tool and a bit of practice/"finesse".)

VjZ6Re9.jpg
 
If you want a line that is very easy to form and won't rust use NiCop line available at parts stores in pre made lengths.
 
Mine has the governor return line. Just hoping someone had done this and knew of an exact line to buy versus cutting and flaring. I do not have the flare tool.
 
(quoted from post at 12:56:31 05/10/21) Mine has the governor return line. Just hoping someone had done this and knew of an exact line to buy versus cutting and flaring. I do not have the flare tool.

Flaring tool is a $15 item. If you measure carefully you can probably find premade lines that will work at your local auto supply. Alternatively use some of the very popular (but not cheap) stainless braided hose and AN fittings which do not require flaring. That's what I did for the fuel line.

TOH
 
I honestly do not see a need to replace a superior filter w/ one of lesser quality just because it drips oil when you change it.
This.

Put a piece of cardboard down if soiling the floor is a concern. :)
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top