Spin on vs Cartridge filter

MMMarvis

Member
Well in a couple days the missing parts to my New Carb will be here and will be ready to try this old girl.

So i started changing oil, Turns out there are some missing parts to this 1 1/2-2 quart cartridge filter. Spring EAA6889B and retainer EAA6898B. The filter is rather useless with out these.

The '65 has a 1 quart factor spin on , no adapter block.
So i have to buy something.

What i have always believed was a motor built with a bypass filter system, filter 10% through a bigger better filter.
More of a hassle but didn't need to do near as often

Spin on's filtered 100% through a lesser filter 100% of the time.
And converting was loosing filtration.

I rebuilt a '63 Willys, with a external mounted,spin on style bypass filter from a Detroit Diesel and added just over 1 quart to the system.

I am looking for opinions on which way to go.

Ford had both and offered the adapter. No mention of different capacity.
At best only 1/2 would drain back.

Cant go with a oil pump driven tack with the cartridge filter, no room.
Both blocks seem to have the hex plug under the filter.
Just trying to keep my options open. And make the best choices.

Wile i may never "Restore" this tractor, I do plan to keep her going for years to come and use her.
 
The cartridge filter passes all the oil.The spin on filter has a thin shell.I put a conversion on a customers car in the 50s,a stone hit the corner of the can.Owner saw the leak before much oil was lost.I put the cartridge filter back on and the service manager never tried to sell the conversion idea again.
 
The spin-on can have a anti drain back valve, and a bypass valve, look at the different models in the catalog.
you can get several different sizes of spin-ons.

as the turbo charged models spec a larger spin on.
 
Convert it, then put the 2 qt FleetGuard on it. Double check the # if you want but IIRC it's an LF642.
Regardless of which filter type you have, you're not installing the tach drive in that block. Threaded plug blocks do not take tach drives without machining. It might not be much... but it would be some.

Rod
 

Yes the Spin on is more susceptible to damage.
But my Father got a great deal on a '50 Cadillac in '54 when a rock removed part of it's oil pan.

I ordered from craftonequipment yesterday, takes a basic ford filter 3/4x16 very common.

I learn a bunch doing this research.
Didn't find the micron rating on the sock/string cartridges, probably because they don't make em anymore.

Cartridges typically have a 32 micron filtering.

Wix 51515 5.2" is 21 micron.
51773 6.9" is 32 micron.
51459 7.1 is 25 micron

Thanks Rod the tach conversion has been discussed around here more than once. And talked about like it was a bolt on operation.

Though i may have a good deal on a 10dn tach setup.

That Fleet Guard number is LF697 and rated at 20 micron.

There are some special filters with lower micron but the prices are ridiculous.
 
I'll double check the FG number tomorrow... but it is a 2 qt filter for 10 series turbo engines and it'll do no harm on yours.

The tach conversion is a bolt on conversion IF you have a '72 or later block. Given that yours has a cartridge that automatically tells me it's an older block... than '70 I think.
If you can get the 10dn that's the easiest way to go provided you get the regulator wired correctly.

Rod
 

Thanks
The regulator is not a problem, I have done too many to count.

I have 2 3000's

A '68 gas i am working on and a '65 diesel that's locked up.
Both have the hex plug. The diesel has a spin on and No adapter.

I haven't delved into casting numbers, But i get the feeling that i should.
 
The diesel doesn't have it's original engine..........................
Early ones all used the big crap can.
Does it have welch type expansion/frost plugs or the threaded in type core plugs? Threaded core plugs go back to mabey May 68... After that they went to the expansion plug. In '70 I think they got rid of the can oil filter and in '72 they changed the oil pump drive well to the expansion type plug.
You can also get the date code from the upper right front block ear. It'll be stamped on that ear. The engine model and serial numbers will be stamped on the oil pan rail... IIRC, on the right side... but check both sides.

Rod
 
I checked that FG part number for the 2 qt filter... good thing I did. It's an LF682 rather than a 642.
I get them by the case for about 7 bucks each.

Rod
 
Reckon Fleet Guard has changed there numbers?

Wix crosses to 51601 5.2 and 23 micron
Amazon is selling Fleet Guard LF682 5.7 inch x 4.2 with a pic

Oh i did a posting with my block numbers, the diesel has hes freeze plugs but the gas is welsh
 
I don't know what the direct FG cross is for your filter. This is the 2 qt spin on that is used on 4 cylinder turbo engines. If you have a spin on block, it 'will fit'. In reality it's more filter than the original. The basic filtering requirements are the same for all of those engines. I simply use it in place of the smaller filters because I can buy them by the case for less money than the others and only have to stock one filter.
I saw your block numbers. The diesel date code indicates it's either a december 64 or December 74 build, of which it could be either... but the plug and filter configuration has me stumped. I've got to dig out a book and look up some info on that serial number...

The gas engine... should have a date code similar to the 4m**c of the diesel...

Rod
 
I will have to sand blast the gas to try to bring up more numbers, it doesn't look like there are any??

I would like to run the 2 quart Fleet guard as they seem to have better microns. though that data is hard to find.

I put a magnet on filters too,Not the 100.00 kind.
It cost nothing and easy to do. If it help it helps.

But Amazon shows a pic of a Fleet Guard LF682 filter and it says and looks to be the 5.6" defiantly not a 2 quart by the picture.

Fleet Guard LF697 is bigger.

The must have changed the part numbers.
 
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