Spline Coupling

[GBCMAN]

It's a paper drill which uses a small hydraulic pump.
The shaft end on the pump end is worn as well as the coupling on that end.The pump shaft is recessed in a 2" wide hole.
The motor shaft is good and that end of the coupling.
Only about 1/2" of each end of the coupling is used.
The equipment manufacturer doesn't sell just the pump. You have to buy everything for over $2,500.
The coupling is 1/2" ID measured at the widest point, has 9 splines and it's about 1 3/8" long.
If I could find a longer one, it would grab areas of both shafts that are good.
But no luck finding this size online.
Was wondering if drilled and tap for setscrews on the bad end would work?
Open to ideas.
Thanks,

 

[Bob]

Get a quote from the folks at the link below.
Gears and splines

 

[JD Seller]

Clean up the stripped end and the bad shaft with brake clean. Then apply cylindrical retaining compound from Loctite. Allow it to cure for 24 hours and it should last for years. I have done this on stripped hydraulic motors several times and it has worked fine in all cases.

 

[GBCMAN]

Thanks,
Looking on Amazon, there appears to be different grades.
Green, red , silver.
The 660 looks like maybe a good choice.
Is one better than another?
Thanks,

 

[Eric in IL]

Do you have any "buddies" with access to a wire feed EDM ? Could have a new longer coupler in about an hour and a half.

 

[Jason the Red]

You could maybe drill through coupling and shaft and install a shearbolt.

 

[gab]

Interesting, about 15 years ago at the car dealer I used to work for, they remodeled and everybody got 2 new Challenger hoists. After a few years one of my hoists developed that same problem and you couldn't buy the sleeve, had to be the motor/ pump/ valve assembly for about 3 grand. We got one of the machine shop guys from down the street to take a look at it. He was drawing a blank and I said what would happen if the sleeve was cut in two with the two fresh sides pressed into a sleeve facing out with a small spacer between them. That hoist has always worked since and sounds exactly like your problem.

 

[TimV]

Yup--had to make one for one of our 50-ton punch presses a few years ago. I put the old one on the CMM, got enough data to get a very close approximation of what we needed, programmed that into our wire EDM, made up one out of a thin piece to check everything (it fit perfectly) and made up the real deal. Still working the last I knew.

 

[M-MAN]

I would cut it down the center, turn the fresh faces out and weld the center back together. You could even weld a spacer in the center for a bit more contact length. Slip a sleeve inside for alignment and criss cross short welds all the way around until it's done.

 

[JD Seller]

I think that 660 is what I have used that number rings a bell. Get the primer too. It is a spray you use before using the compound.

 

[GBCMAN]

Thanks everyone.
These are some great ideas.

 

[souNdguy]

I'd pin it or key it before I glued it.

IMHO.. glue is the worst advice in the thread, and has the least chance for trouble free operation.

Not saying it won't work at all.. just saying of the ideas offered, it is the least durable.

 

[jstpa]

Looks like a company I deal with has them. Go to an alternator shop and give them the #500-22020. That's from a place called j&n. Its 9 spline and a little over 1 3/4" long hth, jstpa

 

[4wdtom]

Can you replace it with a Lovejoy coupling? Maybe some JB weld between the coupling and shaft where the shaft is worn. Maybe 3 or 4 setscrews to center and lock the shaft where the wear on it is?

 

[mgriff543]

That looks like a coupler truck lift gates, some off brand snow plows and bus wheelchair lifts used years ago. Good luck