Split ?49 8n

[Billybuck]

PTO won?t engage, can?t remove PTO shaft (stuck) and been fighting a sticking clutch for a while now. I?ve had
this tractor over 30 yrs. with this same clutch and have never split it. I only have a fairly firm dirt surface to
operate on and a slight side slope of 3? in 6 feet. Thinking I?d leave the rear on ground on blocks and roll the
front away on an 8x8? deck from 4 sheets of 1/2? ply. Or is that overkill? Most of this will be single handed,
certainly while nnalert is a concern as my wife?s an ER nurse. I would roll the front on a floor jack? or weld a
frame with two jack stands as I?ve seen done. The ply would add $100 but maybe worth it? I?d have to buy steel
but could poach jack stands off trailers for that. Thoughts?

 

[jimtrs]

(quoted from post at 10:59:47 04/07/20) PTO won?t engage, can?t remove PTO shaft (stuck) and been fighting a sticking clutch for a while now. I?ve had
this tractor over 30 yrs. with this same clutch and have never split it. I only have a fairly firm dirt surface to
operate on and a slight side slope of 3? in 6 feet. Thinking I?d leave the rear on ground on blocks and roll the
front away on an 8x8? deck from 4 sheets of 1/2? ply. Or is that overkill? Most of this will be single handed,
certainly while nnalert is a concern as my wife?s an ER nurse. I would roll the front on a floor jack? or weld a
frame with two jack stands as I?ve seen done. The ply would add $100 but maybe worth it? I?d have to buy steel
but could poach jack stands off trailers for that. Thoughts?

You won't be able to really do any PTO work with the tractor split at the clutch bell housing to engine. Unless the PTO won't engage BECAUSE of a stuck clutch. This would cause serious grinding when trying to engage. If there are other PTO problems, may require a rear split also. You only need to separate three or four feet to do the clutch.

Sounds like a lot to pull off on a "fairly firm dirt surface" Rolling tractors on a "side slope" does not sound like any fun. It will probably come apart, but will be dangerous, hard to accomplish and a bear to re-couple. Coming apart is usually easier than going back together. I MIGHT try it with your conditions if I had to, only because I've split a countless number of tractors. Been working on cement now for ages.

 

[R Geiger]

are you planning on splitting it at both ends of the trans? front to do clutch and rear end to work on PTO shaft and pump? Do you have engine type cheery picker hoist?
What ever you do block the engine to keep it from falling over.
I would be tempted to roll the back away myself.
keep it safe!

 

[reomack]

I just split my 48 for the first time. I blocked up the front end with 4x4s and moved the back end with a big floor jack. Don't forget to put wedges between the axle and the front of the engine to keep the engine from flopping over. Hardest part for me was removing the hood/gas tank assembly by myself (but then I am 78). I had help putting it back on and it was a breeze. To put it back together it might help to buy some long bolts and cut the heads off, thread them into the bell housing so that for the last few inches, both halves will be perfectly lined up. Hope that makes sense. Using plywood would be a good thing but you should only need it under the end you are planning to move.

 

[Billybuck]

From your collective posts it sounds like it may be more than a notion not on concrete, especially since it will require 2 splits. I do have a friend who would probably let me use some space maybe 8 miles away and I could rent a trailer to get it there, just hate not being at my shop for something like this.
Also, the pto shifter rail won t move fore or aft. Is it possible for the detent ball/spring to get so jammed that this happens? It s an original shaft with over running coupler. I m hoping not to have to do the dreaded "cut the shaft". Mostly wondering if the rear split could be prevented by a shaft bound in the counter shaft bearing support?

 

[R Geiger]

If it were me, I would fix the PTO problem and worry about the sticky clutch another day. Just block down the clutch pedal after every use. The PTO shaft don't sound real good. you could start by cutting the shaft, dropping pump without splitting. maybe the PTO shifter will free up. good luck

 

[Billybuck]

(quoted from post at 00:01:09 04/08/20) If it were me, I would fix the PTO problem and worry about the sticky clutch another day. Just block down the clutch pedal after every use. The PTO shaft don't sound real good. you could start by cutting the shaft, dropping pump without splitting. maybe the PTO shifter will free up. good luck

I ve been blocking the clutch up for two years. Works for anywhere from 2 to 10 minutes before it starts sticking. I have not however tried spraying brake cleaner through the starter hole. If I cut the shaft should I go through the pto shifter cover hole or pull the lift cover? Grinder, reciprocating saw, or torch?

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 19:13:15 04/07/20)

(quoted from post at 00:01:09 04/08/20) If it were me, I would fix the PTO problem and worry about the sticky clutch another day. Just block down the clutch pedal after every use. The PTO shaft don't sound real good. you could start by cutting the shaft, dropping pump without splitting. maybe the PTO shifter will free up. good luck

I ve been blocking the clutch up for two years. Works for anywhere from 2 to 10 minutes before it starts sticking. I have not however tried spraying brake cleaner through the starter hole. If I cut the shaft should I go through the pto shifter cover hole or pull the lift cover? Grinder, reciprocating saw, or torch?

Understand about the clutch, when I first purchased my first 8n the clutch would stick, i think it was from not being used much. no problems last 10 years.
I have not had the need to cut one but I think I saw thread on here about it. reciprocating saw from what i saw. Think it was done from the side holes, but not sure. I think the drive shaft would be in the way going in from the top. I hope I never have to do one! I don't even like to drop the pump anymore!

 

[Hobo,NC]

A post with links in it modify a trailer jack life will be good... I have use one in the link on every make and model I have split its a ongoing modification : )...

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1401792&highlight=trailer

 

[grhuck]

(quoted from post at 07:59:47 04/07/20) PTO won?t engage, can?t remove PTO shaft (stuck) and been fighting a sticking clutch for a while now. I?ve had
this tractor over 30 yrs. with this same clutch and have never split it. I only have a fairly firm dirt surface to
operate on and a slight side slope of 3? in 6 feet. Thinking I?d leave the rear on ground on blocks and roll the
front away on an 8x8? deck from 4 sheets of 1/2? ply. Or is that overkill? Most of this will be single handed,
certainly while nnalert is a concern as my wife?s an ER nurse. I would roll the front on a floor jack? or weld a
frame with two jack stands as I?ve seen done. The ply would add $100 but maybe worth it? I?d have to buy steel
but could poach jack stands off trailers for that. Thoughts?

Back when there were lots of tobacco being grown, and thus lots of N tractors being used, stuck clutches in the springtime wasn't that uncommon. Here is how I've freed them and watched or advised others to free the clutch disc.

1) It helps greatly if the tractor is one that starts easy, that it has a good battery well charged. But put the tractor in neutral and allow the thing to warm up, this is to ensure easier starting.

2) Turn the tractor off after it's warmed up, then remove one plug wire. I don't remember if it matters which plug wire, or if it matters.

3) After pulling the plug wire put the tractor in 1st gear and with the clutch depressed, start the engine. The tractor will of course lurch forward under the starter torque (it may help if the tractor is parked facing a downhill roll). The goal is to get it start so you can drive it around while varying speed, clutch pushed down all the while. It also helps to use hills and bumps to load the tractor againsted the stuck clutch all while the uneven firing impulse from the dead miss hammers against the flywheel, disc and pressure plate. The joy you'll feel when the tractor stops forward motion while you're holding the clutch pedal down is awseome.

 

[Billybuck]

Thanks, mine isn t that stuck. It primarily only sticks in 1st or 2nd gear and often pops loose after 5 seconds or so but that s long enough to do some damage if headed for a tree or over a hill!

 

[8NHENRY]

The proper thing to do is split it and fix the problem. One of mine leaks some oil and the clutch would stick. I did find on this forum where someone drilled a hole in the bell housing and you could spray brake cleaner in to clean up the clutch with it blocked open. I did that to mine and it hasn't stuck in two years. I know I just bought some time but it does need the oil seal replaced yet.

 

[showcrop]

2X what Hobo NC aid. Don't roll the front roll the rear. With your side slope a 2x8 plank on the low side, and some plywood for the trailer jack, would help a lot