splitting 8n ford

Have an 8n got to split to put new starter ring on fly wheel which way is best brace
the back end move front out, or brace front out and move back which is best thanks for
info
 
I split an 8N a couple years ago. Took all of an hour to have it apart to put in a new clutch kit. But my shop has over head chain hoists on trolleys so that makes it easy
 
Bottle jack under the front, wedge the front axle so the engine does not pivot.
Floor jack under the back, roll it back.
Long bolts with the heads cut off for guide pins on reassembly.
Engage the PTO, use pliers to turn if needed, to align the clutch disc.
 
Your original manuals have some methods. Here are some other ideas members have come up with...


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Tim Daley(MI)
 
split my 44 2N once on gravel and by 41 8N once on concrete. Both times blocked up back end, removed hood then front axle then engine. Back end is just too heavy for one person to try to move for that espessialy with tires loaded. years ago Dad and I did the 44 the same way on concrete that time and that was 50+ years ago and engine overhaul then is still good. The engine at that time was bored for the heavy sleves. I would not try to move the back end for that. Pulled the engine on the 41 back in 2004 and have not yet gotten it back together and did have to move the back end by itself when I had to move,. Friend has finally got engine together ready to install but winter came too soon. Both getting too old for that work with every thing else to get done. He is 69 and I am 79.. The reason tractor was down so long is the ice storm of Jan 5 2005 that took down all the electric wires from overhead and I did not get them up again for 10 years and by that time every thing else was just too piled up to get things done including death of my wife. .
 
When I split my '41 9n,I built a shed with a concrete floor and a double 2x8 beam and a hoisting bolt [3/4 grade 8] and simply brought the tractor into the shed,blocked the rear onto some wooden blocks and lifted the motor with a chain hoist. I had made some brackets from angle iron to bolt the motor on the head studs [head removed] . It was fairly easy to split the parts and set the motor on a stand and replace the clutch [bought from this site] and have the oil pump rebushed with a Tisco kit I bought some years ago.
 

As others have posted it is much easier and safer to block the front and roll the rear. You want to use the trailer jack with bracket, and of course wedge the front axle in place. The big tires give you leverage to make rolling a lot easier than rolling the front. One more tip: before starting be sure that it is level front to back by putting a level at the bottom of the block.
 
I used some bolts like these,but ground the non-threaded a bit to make it easier to align the motor and transmission/bell housing.
 
I would not atempt it with the front axle on, it was removed just after the
hood and then the radiater.. Too much danger with the wheels flopping around.
 
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