splitting a tractor -which part to move

[Newbe one]

I've been reading the board and learning about doing a front tractor split. I think I'm ready. Have everything but the bolts removed and the two halves supported. That is my question. There seems to be two views on which part to move, the front or the back end. It seems that the front would be lighter and easier to move, but how do you keep the wheels from going in all directions? Pros and cons as to moving the front or back would be appreciated before I start. I don't want to have issues when I go to put it back together.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:52:24 01/25/10) I've been reading the board and learning about doing a front tractor split. I think I'm ready. Have everything but the bolts removed and the two halves supported. That is my question. There seems to be two views on which part to move, the front or the back end. It seems that the front would be lighter and easier to move, but how do you keep the wheels from going in all directions? Pros and cons as to moving the front or back would be appreciated before I start. I don't want to have issues when I go to put it back together.

I vote for the rear. On a concrete floor and with a floor jack under the center it is quite easy to roll it backwards. The tires provide excellent leverage and with two people it steers quite nicely - a bit more difficult but still quite feasible with one.

TOH

 

[Ed S.]

I think it would all depend on your shop space and lifting equipment... yes, moving the front will mean the wheels go everywhere, but if you're able to use an engine hoist (on wheels), you could potentially just lift the whole assembly off the ground and roll it back far enough to do your work. A single jackstand under the transmission will hold the back end up.

By the time I split mine, I already had the front axle and wheels off, so I used the engine hoist to just pull the engine off the transmission.

es

 

[ZANE]

I've done many over the years and the way we did it in the Ford dealership back in the early 60s.

Attach a hoist to the steering shaft. Put a rolling floor jack under the transmission drain plug. Lift the floor jack till snug. Remove the four steering box bolts from the top of the clutch housing. Remove the bolts from the throttle linkage if it is connected to the clutch housing as in the 100 series. Remove the radius rods at the rear end by removing the clamps. Tie a heavy strap around the oil pan and the hood and tighten it. Raise the hoist that is tied to the steering shaft and then remove the clutch housing bolts. Put enough lifting on the steering to equalize the front and rear and then pull the rear back by rolling on the floor jack.

Don't get your nnalert in a wad! It won't hurt the steering! The steering shaft. Not the steering wheel!!!!

Zane
BREAK TRACTOR AT CLUTCH HOUSING

 

[old]

The way I do it is set the tractor up so the engine sits under my 3 ton chain hoist then block the rear end up. I then remove the front axle assembly and roll it out of the way. I then hook on to the engine and use the hoist to swing the engine off and out. I can have it apart in less then 1.5 hours doing it that way. Reason I know how long it took was I timed my self once just to see how long it took

 

[D.B. in Mi.]

(quoted from post at 14:23:17 01/25/10) The way I do it is set the tractor up so the engine sits under my 3 ton chain hoist then block the rear end up. I then remove the front axle assembly and roll it out of the way. I then hook on to the engine and use the hoist to swing the engine off and out. I can have it apart in less then 1.5 hours doing it that way. Reason I know how long it took was I timed my self once just to see how long it took

That is the way I did mine. After you get it apart then you can bolt it to your engine stand and roll it around that way.


dennis
'49 8n

 

[Paul in MN]

N..one,

I have done it both ways. But I prefer to move the engine section away from the rear. At this time I do not have a concrete floor to work from so that becomes a big factor in my decision to what I make move. The engine needs to be supported with wedge shaped wood spacers driven in lightly between the front axle and its support frame, so that the engine does not suddenly flop to one side. The front wheels are very managable in aiming their direction as you move the front forward. The weight of the front on a rolling jack is probably less than 200 lbs, with the front wheels carrying more than the jack does. With this relatively small amount of weight on the jack, its wheels can be placed on a 2 x 12 to give a smooth rolling surface. You only need to split about 18" to do everything you need to the clutch, flywheel or front tranny seal. I block up the rear end at the front of the tranny and leave it set in one spot.

Maybe I have settled in on moving the engine side as a matter of custom after having replaced clutches etc on big tractors with cabs still on. And I have done a few of them on my dirt floor also. Hey I do dream of having a concrete floor someday, but I have used this shop for 30 years without. I have some carpet scraps I place on the dirt floor so that I am not losing parts or tools into the dirt and gravel. When the carpet gets too grungy it goes into the dumpster and new scraps are easily found (sometimes even from the carpet store).

Similar to Old, I can split and open an 8N in about 1.5 hours if I feel that motivated. Unlike ZANE, I leave the steering box and dash panel fully attached to the tranny and bell housing. If the steering box stays bolted on the rear assembly, then the tie rods need to be knocked loose (I pull them loose at the bottom of the gearbox arms). They can be temporarily wired to the loose ends of the radius rods. With ZANE's method, you do not have to take any wires loose from the back of the dash panel. With my split, the wires going forward need to come away from the dash (probably 6 wires), so label them with tape.

When you join the 2 halves together, it is helpful to buy a few 6" or longer 7/16" NC bolts and cut the heads off. Screw them finger tight into the the threaded holes of the bell housing so that they become guides for the 2 sections coming together. Do not force the sections together!! To get the splines of the clutch plate to line up correctly with the splines of the front tranny shaft, I put the tranny in Neutral, engage the PTO lever and put a channel lock pliers on the rear PTO shaft and wiggle it back and forth while keeping a slight pressure on the 2 halves coming together. When the splines line up they come together so nice and easy, like "click".

Good luck and soon you will be experienced in doing this job and can give advice to the next newbie needing help.

Paul in MN

 

[Paul in MN]

One more point....

It may be possible to split the N without removing the starter motor, but because of its long shaft and bendix clutch on the far end, I do remove it before the split. Then I know it isn't getting damaged. On many other vehicles and tractors, it is not an issue.

Paul

 

[OH Boy]

I believe the rear section is easier to maneuver out of the way and then back into place. The front is a lot harder to both keep upright and make roll in a straight line.

Either way, when you get it close to back together, put several really long bolts (6" or longer) in to use as guides so it all lines up nice. Then you can just pull it together with the shorter bolts. Dont force anything, might have to turn the crankshaft a little to make the splines all line up. Then it will go together with very little effort.

 

[weaveman01]

I duct taped the tie rods to the stabilizer bars. Then I moved the engine section forward. Worked good all three times I split it.

 

[Ramon]

I am with "TheOldHokie" on this. I expect that I have performed this task well over 100 times. To start I put a large floor jack under the trans plug snuggly. I would then remove the hood & fuel tank. I used a medium size chain that I would wrap under the oil pan and connect to the overhead hoist. We had a length of 2x8 about 30 inches in length that was used to spread open the chain when placed just above the dash.

The remainder of the task is about the same, pop off the tie rods, remove the starter, disconnect the wires, remove the engine to trans bolts and roll apart.

Having said all that bear in mind that it has been about 12 years since I closed the dealership and retired from this.