Starer cable battery stud problem

old

Well-known Member
I have a start that works well but the stud you hook the cable to is stripped. I tried to re tap it with a 5/16 tap but its to far gone. What would be the next size small in metric?? I figure doing it that way will save me some big bucks at the re builders because if I take it in the have that replaced they will want to do it all and they will not do just the stud. I have the metric taps and I know I could do it the hard way and try till I find the right one but if you guys can tell me I stay a bit warmer LOL
Thanks
Hobby farm
 
Dunno if my math is quite correct, but I believe there are 2.54 centimeters per inch...

5/16 inch = 0.3125

0.3125 x 2.54 = 0.79375cm

So I would say the next size smaller would be 0.7 cm or 7 millimeters.

If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone with more experience will point you in the right direction...
 
<img src = "http://www.thexton.com/vshop/..%5C_data%5Cdocs%5C531.jpg">

"Repair stud cuts its own thread. Also for use as an extension on solenoids with 5/16-inch stud. Fits Ford/Mercury/Lincoln and more."

(Available in 5/16" NC or SAE thread.)
 
This ones so far gone that the 5/16 tap felt good but when I put a nut on it didn't tighten down ans started to strip again. When I got this tractor the guy had used 2 washers and a bolt to hold the battery cable to the stud which I know didn't help it any
Hobby farm
 
I know that it wouldn't look the nicest, but what if you took a 5/16 nut and drilled and tapped a hole in one of the flats for a set screw. Then weld a short 5/16 bolt on top of the nut to fasten the cable. You could cut the old damaged stud off to the height of the nut to keep the height down.
 
With the repair stud, you can remove the bottom nut that normally stays on the stud, next to the insulating washer, and screw the repair stud all the way down to good threads. (Have to take the starter apart and hold the stud from the INSIDE, so as not to tear the soldered connections loose from the field leads.)

I've almost NEVER seen a stud so bad the repair stud wouldn't "save" it.
 
Bob that maybe an option if I can find out where to find one that is. I had hoped to do it by going with the metric size but maybe that will not work. Where do i find one of them if my idea doesn't work
Hobby farm
 
REAL auto supply stores will have them, as well as an old-fashioned auto-electric repair shop, if you still have one in your area.

I have some extras, if you can wait a few days, I'd send you one N/C.
 
Hey Rich, use either 7mm or 7.5 mm. My tape& Die set has both, might check and see what ya have. Also Ya might see if ya have 9/32(7.14mm) die.


Keith & Shawn
 
Old;
My solution was to drill and tap the center of the stud with a 10x24 tap and using a screw and washer to hold the cable tight. Has held up for 4 years now... Gene
 
Buy a starter repair kit for 10.00.It will have a new copper stud in it.The Ford repair stud will work if you can find one.
 
Bob has the fix but this might work. Those repair studs get at a starter repair shop.
In a pinch buy a coupling nut, remove the existing nut next to the case and attach the coupling nut. These come in different lengths. Now just bolt your cable onto the coupling nut.
 
I buy the large soldering irons in a used tool shop.A bernzomatic torch with a soldering iron tip does good work on heavy soldering jobs.Mice like to chew on the old woven cloth cords on irons so I keep mine in an old mail box.
 
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