Starter Removal and Re-installation

[G6 at Snook, TX]

I have to tackle the last two projects on my tractor. I need to remove the starter and put the new bendix on it. I have several questions:

1. Will I need to remove the Oil Filter housing prior removing the starter?
2. When I pull the starter I know that I am not supposed to remove the the long bolts all the way and that I need to have a nut on hand to keep the starter together. What is the bolt size and threading so I can pick up the correct nut?
3. In the removal process are there any other issues I need to know about?

When I re-install the starter, GB said that it was a booger, but it has to be done.

1. What trick or angle or tool do I need to get the new bendix on the flywheel?

2. Other than that, I cannot think of any other major issues with re-installation.

Thanks,

 

[Bob]

It certainly won't hurt to at least remove the oil filter mounting bolts so you can tweak it out of the way a bit as needed.

The nut you need is 5/16" NC.

 

[HCooke]

When I remove a starter I find a flash light helps to see the bendix in relation to the ring gear. It's a tight squeeze but rememeber, it was installed so it can come off also. I have never had to remove the oil filter housing.

 

[Den N Ms]

G6,1. Will I need to remove the Oil Filter housing prior removing the starter?
Well If no one has ground the housing yet it would be better if you removed the filter to give you more room to get ti out.

When I pull the starter I know that I am not supposed to remove the the long bolts all the way and that I need to have a nut on hand to keep the starter together. What is the bolt size and threading so I can pick up the correct nut?

You'll need at least 1 5/16" standard corse thread nut to hold the starter together.

3. In the removal process are there any other issues I need to know about?
If the housing has not been ground out,Grind out a half egg shake at the 2 O clock position in the mounting hole to make it much easyier to reinstall and remove the next time.
You might also have to remove the block drain for clearance.

 

[jon]

You might also have to remove the block drain for clearance.

That was the most helpful thing I did while working on mine. Only takes a few seconds to back it out.

 

[souNdguy]

ditto what bob said. I diod not find i had to remove the oil can.. but removing it's bolts so it would deflect a bit helped.. that and the block drain .. I also removed the brush band from the starter.

Angle the starter intoward the block and slightly down to get the gear over the flywheel.

hold yer tounge just right and it makes it a whole lot easier.

soundguy

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 14:27:42 02/16/09) I have to tackle the last two projects on my tractor. I need to remove the starter and put the new bendix on it. I have several questions:

1. What trick or angle or tool do I need to get the new bendix on the flywheel?


Thanks,

It's been my experience that you can try and try to get it to clear with no luck and just as you are ready to give up in frustration it drops right in. So I recommend you give up quick :lol:

TOH

 

[Ed S.]

Ditto all the above. When I rebuilt mine, I put in a radiator drain-type petcock, which is much smaller than the original - my starter goes in and out real easy now (starter painted red since this photo):

This view shows the ground-out starter hole:

Note that you need to remove all paint and grime between the starter and the block - that's your ground path...

It helps to hold your tongue just right, too.

es

 

[GB in MT.]

[b:fd17e07bb1][i:fd17e07bb1]

NDG;
Take a grinder, to the starter hole, and make it look like this.
This will make it easier to install the bendix over the flywheel.

Works for me.

Gary [/i:fd17e07bb1][/b:fd17e07bb1]

 

[Danny in CO]

Ed,

You make me sick! Your tractor is all one color and not a speck of dirt anywhere! My 48 8N is read, blue, and several shades of tan and covered in dirt and grime.

Just kidding! It looks great! Great work. I wish mine looked that good!

Thanks for the pictures,
Danny

 

[Ed S.]

Danny - don't look that way no more… She's a worker!

es

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

To grind that hole in the iron and to grind lawnmower blades, what type of wheel do I need to get?

 

[Danny in CO]

lol, it still looks way better than mine.

 

[GB in MT.]

(quoted from post at 16:01:56 02/16/09) To grind that hole in the iron and to grind lawnmower blades, what type of wheel do I need to get?

b:275f050e9d][i:275f050e9d]

NDG;
I did mine with the 4" hand grinder. that I posted the pic. for you, on your other post. Your post about Bench grinder or something like that.
The pic. had my home-made vice in it.
Found it: It is a cheepo Makita brand, with a medium grit grinding wheel.

Sorry....took awhile to find the pic.

Gary :? [/i:275f050e9d][/b:275f050e9d]

 

[Bob Harvey]

If you are going to do the "grind out an egg-shaped hole at 2 o'clock" deal, dont forget the grindings/filings, they will make a mess, but, if you are clever you can put some masking tape INSIDE the hole to collect the debris (leave a little space for the grinder). HTH