starter test?//

[SJ]

I have the starter off my Oliver 1550 gas.How do I test it off the tractor? Theres 3 post on cellinoid,one big one to battery and two small on top of cellinoid.Even if I get it to turn off the tractor does this tell me anything?It wouldnt turn the tractor over with a new battery.Advanced Auto says they test em for ya.Can they tell ya anything that I cant find out on my own?
Thanks
Stan

 

[souNdguy]

At best yuo can do a no load test. That will tell you if the wireing has continuity, and if the brushes are making some contact.

it won't tell you if it has loose bushing or bad bearings.. or needs dressing.. etc..

the smaller posts are either power and ground for solenoid field.. or power and ignition bypass power.

I'm not familier with oliver.. but guess there is also a chance that the solenoid is alread hot like a ford.. and the solenoid needs ground only.. again.. i doubt it though.

Lock starter into a vice.. get your donor battery and jumper cables.. jumper one cable from ground to vice, jumper other cable from power to solenoid input.

From there.. you will need to figure out if it just needs power.. or power and ground to the small posts.

i'd start with a small jumper wire and jumper from hot to one of the posts.. if notheirng.. then jumper hot to the other.. if nothing, then jumper hot to one of them and ground te other.. if nothing.. time for a rebuilder to look at it..

Soundguy

 

[John T]

SJ, A non loaded bench starter test off the tractor can likely tell if its definitely BAD (wont turn at all) but NOT if its really good under loaded conditions. Clamped in a vise and jumper cables to the frame ground n big input stud/post ought to make her spin fast n smooth n even with NO grinding or growling or funny noises or getting hot etc. If she dont at least do that she may be bad. HOWEVER even if it passes the bench test it may be bad n draw excess current of fail to crank under a load.

Many typical stand alone starter solenoid switches have the big input (from battery) and output (to starter) stud posts with one or two lil control input wires, MAYBE?? one labeled S which activates the Solenoid MAYBE one labeled I which can by pass an external ignition ballast resistor (if so equipped like Ford solenoids). When you depress a start button or turn a key switch to START 12 volts ought to appear from the switch/button to one of the soilenois lil input activation terminals which causes a connection of the big input n output studs together. Those type solenoids use frame ground as the return current path for the activation coil. Its possible to duplicate the switch/push start operation (if its bad) by jumping a lil wire from the solenoids hot input battery post to the solenoids lil S activation terminal which ought to engage the solenoid.

If its possible to get to it without risking shorting to frame ground you can use jumper cables to by pass jump around the solenoid (i.e. test starter on tractor) or else direct jump from the hot ungrounded battery post direct to the starters input stud/post (same as solenoids output to starter post) CAUTION thats a high current n risky connection (not for rookies to try this at home lol) use care and DO NOT let the hot lead touch frame ground !!!!!!

A chattering solenoid can mean a weak batetry (had yours load tested????) or a bad connection. To be safe I would remove, clean n wire brush, n reattach each n every battery n solenoid n starter n ground cable connection and try the starter on the tractor.

Turn lights on and when you try n start if they dont dim much at all Id suspect a bad connection or a bad solenoid (still may be starter however) but if they dim down badly Id suspect more of a starter problem or else its mechanically stuck/jammed to the flywheel.........

John T

 

[John T]

SJ, A non loaded bench starter test off the tractor can likely tell if its definitely BAD (wont turn at all) but NOT if its really good under loaded conditions. Clamped in a vise and jumper cables to the frame ground n big input stud/post ought to make her spin fast n smooth n even with NO grinding or growling or funny noises or getting hot etc. If she dont at least do that she may be bad. HOWEVER even if it passes the bench test it may be bad n draw excess current of fail to crank under a load.

Many typical stand alone starter solenoid switches have the big input (from battery) and output (to starter) stud posts with one or two lil control input wires, MAYBE?? one labeled S which activates the Solenoid MAYBE one labeled I which can by pass an external ignition ballast resistor (if so equipped like Ford solenoids). When you depress a start button or turn a key switch to START 12 volts ought to appear from the switch/button to one of the soilenois lil input activation terminals which causes a connection of the big input n output studs together. Those type solenoids use frame ground as the return current path for the activation coil. Its possible to duplicate the switch/push start operation (if its bad) by jumping a lil wire from the solenoids hot input battery post to the solenoids lil S activation terminal which ought to engage the solenoid.

If its possible to get to it without risking shorting to frame ground you can use jumper cables to by pass jump around the solenoid (i.e. test starter on tractor) or else direct jump from the hot ungrounded battery post direct to the starters input stud/post (same as solenoids output to starter post) CAUTION thats a high current n risky connection (not for rookies to try this at home lol) use care and DO NOT let the hot lead touch frame ground !!!!!!

A chattering solenoid can mean a weak batetry (had yours load tested????) or a bad connection. To be safe I would remove, clean n wire brush, n reattach each n every battery n solenoid n starter n ground cable connection and try the starter on the tractor.

Turn lights on and when you try n start if they dont dim much at all Id suspect a bad connection or a bad solenoid (still may be starter however) but if they dim down badly Id suspect more of a starter problem or else its mechanically stuck/jammed to the flywheel.........

John T

 

[Bob M]

Stan - As the others suggest the only starter test you can run at home is the "no load" test. And this will only tell you whether the starter is completely DOA - it won't tell you whether it has enough stooch to crank the engine.

To test the Oliver starter, clamp it firmly in a vise. (Don't leave it loose on the floor - if the starter is good it'll take off like a scared rabbit when it's energized!) Connect one battery cable to the heavy post on the soleniod and ground the other on the starter case or the vice. Now use a small wire to jumper between the battery and "I" terminals on the solenoid.

A good starter will bang the bendix out to the end of it's travel and spin up instantly.

 

[SJ]

Took the starter to shop they hooked it up and it took right off.Meter said it was pullin 80 amps.Does that tell me anything?He said he didnt know,wasnt familiar with a starter that old.
Thanks
Stan

 

[John T]

SJ, I really dont have any specs or data whatsoever to base this on so take it with a grain of salt butttttttttttt that sounds a lil high amperage for no load whatsoever....... The max current is at locked rotor but as she spins faster a back emf develops which tends to lessen the current draw. If she wasnt real cold out Id expect that starter to draw say 100 to 300 amps under load which is why (a guess only mind you) 80 sounds a bit high to me unloaded.

I hope my friends Bob M and Gerald (currently practicing engineer) will add their thoughts on that 80 amp figure n see if Im all wet????? It wont be the first or last time lol

John T

 

[SJ]

I just remounted the starter and it did the same thing,jumped it with my truck and she turned over pretty good,I think maybey the ground might been a little loose on it,maybey the battery is bad too,the lights light up good though,but the tractor wont start(fire) now..thats never happened,geesh it never ends with this old iron does it.That big fat payment book is startin to look better and better.lol
Stan

 

[John T]

I think many auto stores will "Load Test" (whats needed) the battery for free and it wont cost nuttin to remove n clean n wire brush n reattach alllllll battery n starter n solenoid n ground cables n connections, heck a new batery n cables seviced may be all she needs. Check one of mo posts below for the dim the lights test also

John T

 

[Anonymous-0]

60 t0 80 amps is ok at no load.An induction meter costs 6 bucks and can check cranking amps.If you dont have specs on current drain test a tractor like yours.I bought my induction meter around 1955 and use it often.Worn bushings and a dragging armature will drive the current way up.Current drain under load is important.Kitts Industrial Tools at 1 800 521 6579.Good prices, extra fast shipping. They sell the meter for 6 bucks.This meter has a scale for alternator/ generator testing.Just lay the meter against the battery or alternator wire and read the current.