starting help

mlbtex

Member
hey guys. i just got me a john deere 730 lp. got
it home after sitting 25 years and after cleaning
and stuff got it to start after pull starting. i
want to start of starter now. just wondering if
anyone has some tips on this. once i did finnaly
get it to start i ended up having 3 batteries
hooked up to all over. i know i shouldnt have to
do this. anyone know about what size battery this
should take and tips on starting. i know on my
4020lp i had to add a battery on the side to help
with starting in winter. just wonder if thats what
i need to do here. this is my first 2 cylinder and
all the help i can get is appreciated.
 
3 batteries to start it? I"d take a close look at the starter first. Remove it, put it in a vise and hook the black cable to the starter case and red to the solenoid. You may have to jump the large stud to a smaller one on the solenoid. Should spin like crazy. If not it may be bad.
 
One group 31 1000CCA battery with the pos to chassis and the coil with pos to the points.
Chassis cable needs to be HD connected from pos to the casting under the seat box.
Needs to have a properly polarized generator. Or a 1 in 10,000 alternator set up for pos ground if wired that way.
Nice find locating a LP 730.
 
im not quite sure on the positive ground thing havent tried that. and also the battery i had in it is only a light 660cca battery and my pickup battery so not like i had 3 big batterys on it. ive been saying a prayer thats its not the starter since the price of them is 700 plus. i know the ground wire goes out of box and down to frame right under shifting lever. the starter has new selenoid on it so know thats good. im going to start with a new big battery and go from there. im pretty sure ill need new cable also. this and the clutch not wanting to lock in are my only two problems on the whole thing. i lucked out on this thing i think.
 
That ain't the chassis return cable that most folk call ground. That is the cable going to the starter solenoid.
The starter can be repaired for less than $700.
It's possible a car or connection is rotten and dropping voltage. Ignition system won't fire is system voltage is low.
Is the bypass starting circuit operational?
 
not sure what the bypass starting circuit is. im not real up to speed on a lot of things on this tractor. but i assume that since i have the positive side of battery hooked up to cable running to selinoid that would mean negative ground. and from what ive read and you said ive got it backwards. i can get it to trun over pretty good at the start but falls off quick. and have to wait for battery to catch back up. also on a side note ive notice that it will flood out quick too. once i start cranking ive shut the vapor back off until i get a pop then turn on and it will pick up. but if i leave vapor on the whole time it seems to flood out.
 

You may need to replace the Brushes and brush Springs and clean the Armature, but that should be all...re-lube the bearings and should be good-to-go..

Ron..
 
One of my favorite tractors is the 730LP. My grandpa still has one it was the tractor I spent the most time on as a kid mowing raking and hauling bales and hours upon hours with the 3-14" F620 plow behind plowing oats stubble. His is a neg ground with a alternator with well a soon to be 950 CCA battery athough right now it only has a 650 CCA battery and that starts her just fine athough she is getting a bit weak on the compression. Check the points and condenser and the plugs and wires. Also check that the ground cable is good and clean on the battery and the frame.
 
well after messing around yesterday. i noticed
that my neighbor set the distributer up way to
fast and once i got running adjusted to where it
sounded way better. but after putting new plugs im
not getting a very big spark at all. so im just
wondering if my coil and condenser have gotten
real weak. i redone all the wiring last night
except for main starter cable. i went up to 12
gauge everywhere except propane selenoid switch.
the next 40 extra bucks is going to the kit that
they sell on here if its any good
 
Bypass is a 6V coil on a 12V system using a ballast resistor when running. During starter motor rotation when system voltage is lowest. The 6V coil has the ballast bypassed and the coil receives full system voltage . Much stronger spark.
Check the coil primary resistance when checking if the coil polarity . If the primary ohms are 3-4 , then it's a 12V coil. The proper 6V coil will measure 1.5-2.0 ohms.
It's solenoid btw.
 
Just thinking of something on the 70LP topic . If those are resistor plug wires and resistor plugs, good luck with the that.
Solid core wires and Autolite 3116 plugs .
On ignition timing. Going with by guess and by golly will making cranking difficult and may smash the starter snout.
Obtain a timing light and ensure zero advance when cranking and that the advance is gradually increasing to approx 20 degrees at approx 1000rpm iirc. Check your tractor's operator's manual. You do have the manuals ordered ? Don't waste time and $$$ with IT manuals either.
Would not be the first time an advance was stuck with too much dried up lubricant and dirt.
 
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