starting issue

[nonfarmer]

my 8n with a side mount distributor wont start and I need some direction.
let me start by saying what it did and what I have done thus far. I was out mowing for about two hours when all of the sudden the tractor decided to stutter a bit and then died all together. I was able to get it to run just long enough to make it back to the house by holding the choke out. I let it sit for a few days before I could get back to work on it. once I did I started with the basic checks fuel/fire/compression. didn't make it past the fuel.
unhooked the fuel line at the carb to find no flow. changed out the fuel bowl under the tank do to it being packed tight with rust. hooked it back up and still no start. pulled the plug on bottom of carb to find no fuel. replace the carb as I already had a new one on hand. set it before I put it on. still no start. I should have stopped there and went back to the original check list but I didn't.
now knowing that I had good fuel I decided to go ahead and put new points, plugs, wires, distributor and rotor since I already had them in the hopes that it may have been that. now it starts for a few seconds and dies.
I could really use some advise on where to go from here. I am thinking it may be the coil or the wiring. one of the previous owners rewired this tractor and it was a poorly done job.during my ownership of this tractor it has always started easy and ran really good up until this point.
any help will be appreciated.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" I am thinking it may be the coil or the wiring. "

Why keep throwing parts at it?

You had it right the first time; troubleshoot the problem.

You have yet to eliminate fuel flow as a problem.

Or spark either for that matter.

See tip # 13.

Follow the suggestions and post back w/ what you find.

And never buy a new part w/o confirming that the part on the tractor is defective.
75 Tips

 

[Jim L WA]

Hi nonfarmer; You say, "now knowing that I had good fuel....", did you actually check it with the plug removed from the bottom of the carb? The reason I ask is you said you changed out the fuel bowl due to rust. Do you mean you changed out the whole shut off valve or just the bowl? I guess what I"m driving at is, although it's possible I suppose, I don't see the fuel issue cropping up and ignition failure at the same time. You say the tractor has always started easy and ran really good up until this point. So even though the wiring may not be pretty it sounds like it's good. Let us know.

 

[nonfarmer]

what do you mean by "You have yet to eliminate fuel flow as a problem."? I now have good flow through the bottom of the bowl and everything is set as it is to be on the carb itself. I have even shot the gasket with starter fluid while trying to start it thinking I might have a vacuum leak. is there something else I can do to check fuel?

 

[nonfarmer]

I replaced the entire fuel bowl assembly under the tank. I agree totally with your comment "I don't see the fuel issue cropping up and ignition failure at the same time." that is why I am asking for help. it has me stumped!! unless I have missed something, I am confident that I have resolved the fuel issue as it was completely stopped up with absolutely no flow not even a drop. however, fixing the flow problem did not solve my problem. again, odds are not good that I have 2differnt problems at the same time.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 12:26:25 04/19/18) I replaced the entire fuel bowl assembly under the tank. I agree totally with your comment "I don't see the fuel issue cropping up and ignition failure at the same time." that is why I am asking for help. it has me stumped!! unless I have missed something, I am confident that I have resolved the fuel issue as it was completely stopped up with absolutely no flow not even a drop. however, fixing the flow problem did not solve my problem. again, odds are not good that I have 2differnt problems at the same time.

hat "bowl"? Carb bowl or sediment bowl?

 

[nonfarmer]

sediment bowl was the first bowl replaced. once I got fuel to the filter elbow (solid stream) on the carb. I then checked to see if I had it through the carb bowl. did not. replaced the elbow filter then I got fuel through the bowl. could not get fuel through the carb to the cylinders(at least not that I could tell.) at that point I changed out the carb with a new one. which I already had.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:07:16 04/19/18) sediment bowl was the first bowl replaced. once I got fuel to the filter elbow (solid stream) on the carb. I then checked to see if I had it through the carb bowl. did not. replaced the elbow filter then I got fuel through the bowl. could not get fuel through the carb to the cylinders(at least not that I could tell.) at that point I changed out the carb with a new one. which I already had.

ounds good

 

[Dollar Bill]

Follow the troubleshooting procedure mentioned in your initial post. You've resolved the fuel issue now verify ignition. Open the gap on any old (good) spark plug to 1/4 inch. Connect a plug wire to the plug. Ground the plug and try to start it. You're looking for blue or white spark. Yellow or orange indicates weak spark.

 

[TimInd]

Take off the gas cap next time it quits (could be the air hole at the top of the tank is clogged by mud from the wasps).

 

[nonfarmer]

got and update for ya. Bruce was right I still haven't fixed my fuel problem. apparently the new carb I had acquired came from the land of almost right!!. first the fuel inlet stop was stuck. unstuck it. put carb back together and back on and tried again. pulled the choke and turned it over to immediately flood it out. not only flood it out but fuel flowed right out the air intake in a steady stream. pulled bowl back apart and did a float test on the float. one side sank immediately. now it looks like I am back to rebuilding the carb that was on it when I bought it. anyone know how good the rebuild kit is that I can get at tsc?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" anyone know how good the rebuild kit is that I can get at tsc? "

Yes.

Like most tractor parts sold at TSC, they are overpriced off-shore junk.

Get the kit here, from nnalert's or Dennis Carpenter.

That being said.........

Are you rebuilding the Chinese clone or an OEM M/S carb?
75 Tips

 

[doublebass73]

(quoted from post at 15:24:10 04/20/18) " anyone know how good the rebuild kit is that I can get at tsc? "

Yes.

Like most tractor parts sold at TSC, they are overpriced off-shore junk.

Get the kit here, from nnalert's or Dennis Carpenter.

That being said.........

Are you rebuilding the Chinese clone or an OEM M/S carb?
75 Tips

While I certainly agree with your assertion about TSC parts believe it or not their rebuild kit for the M/S carb is made in USA. I normally buy my parts online but I was in jam in March, carb had issues and snow in the forecast so I had to fix the 9N right now. I took my chances on the TSC kit which was overpriced but I was surprised to see the made in USA label. The tractor starts really easy now and runs good with that kit.

 

[nonfarmer]

I will be rebuilding the one that came on the tractor as it was previously working. I really don't know if it is the original one or a POS one. It looks like a better built one. Has no markings but it does have an aluminum tag uner one of the bowl screws.

 

[nonfarmer]

here is a pic

 

[GB in MT.]

(quoted from post at 21:26:19 04/20/18)

here is a pic

b:8fb96295fe][i:8fb96295fe]

That is an 'Aftermarket Carb'...and if you will look at the tag attached to it,....you will prob. find that it is this carb!!

As advertized on YT...in the parts dept.
Ford 8N Carburetor
[ Categories ] [ View All Parts ]
Ford 8N Carburetor 8N9510C-BLACK


Description: Black. Cast Iron. Exactly like original. For 8N, 9N, 2N.
Carburetor Part Number 8N9510C-BLACK


$158.76

BUT, as you say it was running good, on your 8N, you may luck out with a total overhaul, with a carb kit.
Make sure to soak the carb overnight with carb-cleaner, run a wire thru every passageway in the carb, and blow all the passages out with 70-90 psi.!!

Install the carb kit, and re-adjust to starting specks!! Then fine tune the carb, while running at operating temp.

Still need help??? Re-post for more!!!

Gary :wink: [/i:8fb96295fe][/b:8fb96295fe]