Starting the DC when COLD

[Mike Fitz]

I have 3 DCs here all 12 V, anyone of them will turn and start anytime. If you are having trouble I suggest having the starter looked at and making sure you have a hot high amp battery and heavy tractor grade battery cables. My 39 has Popup pistons, block decked .060, engine is zero decked, no head gasket .100 off the head and it starts easily, I figure with no gasket, decking, and .100 off the head I have dropped the head nearly .250" and still turns nicely with the stock MAB 4105 starter. I do use a 1000 amp deka on that and have it mounted out front on my weight frame but it turns easily. I use solenoids instead of the push buttons as buttons are notorious for intermittent and weak cranking.

What kind of horsepower are you getting from this setup?

 

[mEl]

What kind of horsepower are you getting from this setup?

At calibrated checkpoints with no break in time 55@1000 engine rpm, 65 at 1400 rpm and 75 at 1800 rpm. My next move is to delete the fan and water pump and go electric to free up a few HP. Parts to do this are in my shop so the temps are gonna have to get up so I can move the tractor in.

 

[Mike Fitz]

At calibrated checkpoints with no break in time 55@1000 engine rpm, 65 at 1400 rpm and 75 at 1800 rpm. My next move is to delete the fan and water pump and go electric to free up a few HP. Parts to do this are in my shop so the temps are gonna have to get up so I can move the tractor in.

That has to bring a smile to your face when you run it! It would be fun to see it pull. My grandfather had 1/8 shaved off the head and 4" high compression pistons installed in the CC I have when it was almost new, and it is still one of the most satisfying sounds I know of when it picks up a load.

 

[jon f mn]

I have never used red silicone to coat a gasket, I just use it as a stand alone sealer (gasket) as the head is tight down to the block. Red Silicone does have excellent heat resisting properties and it may do well there, not so much for compression sealing but would aid the gasket as far as antifreeze seeps. When I work with head gaskets, generally I use Copper Kote and put it down pretty thick. I would highly recommend that you torque to spec, start and run at operating temperature for an hour or so then retorque each bolt individually after cool down, loosening them enough to break the friction and then retorque to spec, then reset valves. You will be surprised how many degrees tightening that you get. Those particular engines you are working on can use all the help they can get and the problems you had were common. I know some others POO HOO the retorque recommendation, but it is right out of Case's service manuals and a good Idea. I did this stuff 50+ years in a professional shop where my work was guaranteed so I learned early not to cut corners. Good luck with your project, keep us posted as you progress.

You wait til the engine cools to re-torque? I've always done it hot. I've had good luck with that, but doesn't mean I'm right. Was just told to do it that way.

 

[mEl]

You wait til the engine cools to re-torque? I've always done it hot. I've had good luck with that, but doesn't mean I'm right. Was just told to do it that way.

Jon, I'm not sure it's any big deal, cool, the metal has all shrunk back down but either way relaxing the torque allows the bolt to retorque back to spec breaking the original friction.

 

[jon f mn]

Jon, I'm not sure it's any big deal, cool, the metal has all shrunk back down but either way relaxing the torque allows the bolt to retorque back to spec breaking the original friction.

That's what I've found. Been surprised by how much further you get. Even tried just to torque without loosening, and there is a big difference when you back off first. Haven't had any head gasket issues since I started that.

 

[CasevsDeere]

As long as you have a good battery and working choke it should take right off. Dads '51 had been sitting since October and it fired right off with a less than ideal battery in this cold snap we just had

 

[ShakerPrairie]

I have a 1947 Case manual for D tractors that says to retorque the head after it's been ran up to operating temperature and allowed to cool down.
That's the only place I've ever seen that. All other info says to retorque when still hot.

 

[mEl]

SP, I think when the engine gets hot things expand significantly, In my opinion it would make more sense to retorque after a complete cool down, consider that the gasket has taken its initial crush and I am sure there is several thousands of an inch growth in the head thickness when hot so when these things are considered a cool retorque seems to make sense considering the cooldown shrinkage at warmup then will give even a higher clamp on the gasket.

Many years ago a neighbor brought a M to me that would not run hot it was fine till put under a continuous load. I put it on the dyno and sure enough when hot the engine HP went to nothing, I pulled the valve cover and all the rockers had little or no clearance. He had a little valve recession going on and that allowed the rocker clearance to get to a point where component expansion was allowing the rockers to be holding the valves off their seats when well warmed up. A simple reset of the rockers and all was well.

I have seen many DCs with the gaskets really blackened between the 1-2 and 3-4 where the bores are close together even on engines in running condition so I know the retorque is highly desirable.