steering column top hex nut removal

stewartr

Member
I'm trying to pull apart the steering box to rebuild it, and the top nut is frozen on pretty bad. It's pretty beat up (previous owner), and looks like someone used a pipe wrench on it at some point. Anyone got any ideas?

I've been soaking it in penetrating oil, but I'm a little apprehensive to heat it up too much. The nut is so beat up, it's hard to tell what size it is (the wrench that fits is too loose, but the next size down is way too tight). Is there a good way to block the wheel to I can get some leverage? Anyone have any suggestions?
 
(quoted from post at 13:52:34 02/08/11) I'm trying to pull apart the steering box to rebuild it, and the top nut is frozen on pretty bad. It's pretty beat up (previous owner), and looks like someone used a pipe wrench on it at some point. Anyone got any ideas?

I've been soaking it in penetrating oil, but I'm a little apprehensive to heat it up too much. The nut is so beat up, it's hard to tell what size it is (the wrench that fits is too loose, but the next size down is way too tight). Is there a good way to block the wheel to I can get some leverage? Anyone have any suggestions?

Turn it all the way to the left till it stops, then loosen the nut, if you have to do as the previous owner, use a pipe wrench, the nuts can be bought.
 
You're wise to be concerned about ruining the steering column. It's not very strong & a BFH will ruin it.

Assuming it's the OEM acorn nut, it is 1-1/16".

Drill a hole dead center in the nut the steering column is hollow). Then, spray the penetrating oil in the hole so that it actually gets on the threads. A little heat will help things along. Use a pipe wrench if need be. Buy another nut.

If you are having problems getting the nut off, the wheel isn't going to be much fun either.

There are a number of ways to remove the steering wheel, most of which work & some of which will damage the threads, column or wheel. The best way is a special puller (not a gear puller) that hooks under the spokes; you also need a rod to go inside the hollow steering column to keep the end of it from mushrooming when you screw down on the puller. The acorn nut is not strong enough the let you get away w/ this. Because I don't have a puller, what I do is remove the acorn nut the night before the wheel needs to come off & soak the column where the wheel attaches w/ PB Blaster. The next day, I put the nut back on 3 or 4 turns, get up on the tractor & start pulling/tugging on the wheel. 1 out of 3 times, it comes off. If it doesn't, I get out 2 hammers, a 2 lb & a 4 or 5lb. I place the head of the heavier hammer on the hub of the wheel just where the spokes attach & then start hitting it from the opposite side w/ the smaller hammer. I go all the way around the wheel like that 2 or 3 times. It's called "swagging" the metal. Then, back on the seat for a pull & tug session. The longest it has ever taken me is another oil soak & tapping drill to get one off. The last time I pulled one, it popped off as soon as I started tapping w/ the hammers. Some folks speed the process along by using an air impact tool with a blunt tool in it; they get under one of the spokes and push up. The vibration helps break the rust bond.
steeringwheel.jpg

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Thanks for the advice. This forum is awesome! I'll give it a shot as soon as I can, it's about 16f here and my shop isn't really heated. I'll let you know if it works.
 
I replaced my steering wheel,bearings,etc.I tried all of the above,and was afraid of breaking the shaft,and cut it off with a grinder,until it broke off with the help of a small chisel.The steering wheel came loose,and came off easily.The wheel was trashed anyway,now everything is good.it steers like new.Oh by the way,'41 9n frontmount 6v +g[lol]---lha P.S.,I bought all parts here on YT site,and am very satisfied,price and quality,couldn't be happier.
 
ditto on the impact wrench and 6pt socket. if that fails.. split the nut and save the shaft.

soundguy
 
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