steering wheel

[jupton]

51' 8N sidemount dis 12v cov.

what is best way on getting the steering wheel off ??

I have bought a used steering box off a 52 8N parts tractor (that I hope will fit my 51') This steering box has very very little slop,when turned left to right , no up & down movement.
I got steering box ,dash ,steering wheel, drag links ,and ends that go on spinels. Need to take this apart to get the steering box out..the point is my dash is in so much better shape then the parts one I would like to keep it ..
I have the drag links off already and other stuff lose.. don,t want to damage threads under the steering wheel nut.. I plan to change them out at a later date..

Thank Jeff

 

[souNdguy]

use an impact wrench to remove the acorn nut.

then use a 2 jaw pittman arm puller for the wheel hub.. they are usually wide lipped but shallow, and should grab the hub.

put something on the steering rod.. a bolt or the nut itself, to protect the threads.

penetrant oil helps.. so does taping 2 small hammers and placing 180; apart ont he top of the hub where the splines are, NOT THE BOTTOM where it is thin.. then use 1 hammer as a backup, and use the other as a tapper.. then move around the hub as best you can.

then grab the wheel while standing on the running boards and give a couple good jerks ( remember to keep the acorn nut thread on a bit for this or you might fly off the back of the tractor when it gives way.

once in a while you get one that is hoplessly stuck and you have to cut the spokes to get room to work, then cut / split the hub 95% the way thru in at least 1 if not 2 places, then use a wide chissle to split it. heat sometimes also has to be applied.. thus the top bushing would have to be renewed.

also, a steering box from a post 26xxxx model should fit another.

ps.. a lil late now.. biut those boxes, especially the late ones are rebuildable. the rise / fall are thrust bearings, and the play before turning is thrust play in combination with sector backlash.. there are adjuster studs to correct the backlash if the box is not totally wore out.

occassionally you find those too! i just rebuilt a box on my 2000 that had the ballnut and double sector wore slap out from lack of lube..

soundguy

 

[Scottymudguy]

I used a three jaw puller & some chain.
Took the arms off the puller & put a few links of chain in each one's spot.
Then ran chain under the "spokes" of the steering wheel & back up to the same bolts that secure the chain to the puller. Hope that makes sense....
I tried just using the puller, it was going to rip the bottom of steering wheel "socket" up & it didnt really fit to well, so I came up with the chain idea. It worked really well, I have chain laying around & I have a pretty good selection of bolts on hand too...
If you dont have what you need most automotive stores today will rent tools & there is a puller made specfic for steering wheels. Some of those stores (Auto Zone for one) will "rent" you a tool for their asking price in store...you bring it back, they refund full price....You dont bring it back, you bought it!

 

[jupton]

Soundguy Thanks forall that info..

My tractor is a 8N 383842 , my steering box 51' has lots of play left to right 3/4 turn or more & wheel hub moves up & down when turned but still working tractor anyway . I will try your plan out today when this heat backs off some .. LOL on jerking wheel & falling off tractor..

thanks for quick replie to post...

Jeff

 

[jupton]

Scotty : Thanks for the info

 

[Bruce (VA)]

There are a number of ways to remove the steering wheel, most of which work & some of which will damage the threads, column or wheel. The best way is a special puller (not a gear puller) that hooks under the spokes; you also need a rod to go inside the hollow steering column to keep the end of it from mushrooming when you screw down on the puller. The acorn nut is not strong enough the let you get away w/ this. Because I don't have a puller, what I do is remove the acorn nut the night before the wheel needs to come off & soak the column where the wheel attaches w/ PB Blaster. The next day, I put the nut back on 3 or 4 turns, get up on the tractor & start pulling/tugging on the wheel. 1 out of 3 times, it comes off. If it doesn't, I use the "Soundguy Method": I get out 2 hammers, a 2 lb & a 4 or 5lb. I place the head of the heavier hammer on the hub of the wheel just where the spokes attach & then start hitting it from the opposite side w/ the smaller hammer. I go all the way around the wheel like that 2 or 3 times. It's called "swagging" the metal. Then, back on the seat for a pull & tug session. The longest it has ever taken me is another oil soak & tapping drill to get one off. The last time I pulled one, it popped off as soon as I started tapping w/ the hammers. Some folks speed the process along by using an air impact tool with a blunt tool in it; they get under one of the spokes and push up. The vibration helps break the rust bond.

50 Tips

 

[souNdguy]

my bet is that 26$ of thrust bearings and some sticky grease and a sector backlash adjustment would fix your old box.

post back if you hit any snags. steering wheel hubs can distort and whatnot, and at some point you say the heck with it.. buy a new repop wheel and cut the old hub down. just stay out of the steering shaft.. etc.

may the force be with you!

soundguy

 

[jupton]

Thanks Bruce we,ll do..

Jeff