Sticking brakes question

[RedMF40]

I recently helped my brother trailer a Kubota home that he'd just bought. We used my '99 F250SD to tow his tractor, some implements, and 18 foot trailer home. About 150 mile round trip. Last ten miles or so I smelled burning brakes, pulled over and front right wheel was smoking and slinging bearing grease. This was regular, flat driving. No big hills or anything. Truck rolled easily when I put in neutral so I just reduced speed and made it home ok with nothing burning up.

Just looking at the truck now. Wheel moves freely by hand with it off the ground. Brake pads plenty of wear, rotor a little grooved but not bad.

My question is, where do I go from here? Aside from bringing it to a qualified mechanic, that is. If it's a sticking caliper, wouldn't it be sticking all the time? I know the brake hose can sometimes fail internally and make for a sticking caliper. Only wheel affected is front right.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Gerrit

 

[rustred]

Well if it was that hot then u better get it looked at. And
yes calipers do stick and then just let go. I have had the
same thing happen. Replace caliber and check the brgs
and replace the seal if applicable. Most time they stick
once the pads are worn quite a bit and they dont retract
back in at hyway speed and keep dragging.

 

[M-MAN]

When that happened to me I replaced
the hoses and calipers. Could be
either one and I prefer to get it
fixed the first time.

 

[Bob M]

Have experienced the same problem on my '99 F250. Seems the OEM calipers (with phenolic pistons) are prone to random sticking as they get older. Replacing with calipers fitted with metal pistons corrected the problem.

Also around here (western NY where roads are salted about 5 months a year...) caliper slider pins are subject to corrosion/sticking. Every time I have a wheel off I loosen the pin retaining bolts then rotate/stroke the slider pins to spread the internal lubricant and make sure they still move freely.

 

[RedMF40]

Thanks for the replies. I replaced the brake hose since they had one at the local auto parts and I had time to do it. I also loosened the caliper and banged on it a bit, just seemed like something to do.

I'll monitor the situation, see if it acts up again with local driving. Thanks again.

Gerrit

 

[brooktre]

If you have an infrared thermometer you might take some measurements after a drive. Comparing left and right sides could help pinpoint a problem.

 

[RedMF40]

(quoted from post at 17:57:51 07/23/23) If you have an infrared thermometer you might take some measurements after a drive. Comparing left and right sides could help pinpoint a problem.

Good suggestion. No infrared thermometer but I have a digital cooking thermometer that might yield good readings if I touch it to the same spots on both sides.

Gerrit

 

[willie in mn]

Coming at it from a different angle. Disc brakes NEVER retract completely, the pads are always in contact with the rotor. There is no spring anywhere to push the piston back into the caliper & the pads away from the rotor. That is why they always look clean & are dry, even after driving on wet roads.
You mentioned there were signs of slinging bearing grease. My first guess would be seal failure & grease getting on the warm pad & rotor.
Of course I might be wrong. It has happened before.
Willie

 

[caterpillar guy]

I'm going to go a different direction I'm going to say you have a wheel bearing going. They are a component bearing not a take it aprat and grease it just a change it and junk the old. Everything has to come off the wheel end to do it. wheel caliper, then there are 4 nuts that unscrew on the back side to get the hub/bearing off. It is a hub and bearing all in one unit. Lastone I bought for a 99 Ford 3/4 diesel 4x4 was in the 400.00 range and had to order it. Dealer item only at that time about 20 years ago now.

 

[RedMF40]

My first guess would be seal failure & grease getting on the warm pad & rotor.
Of course I might be wrong. It has happened before.
Willie[/quote]

I'd considered that. Not exactly your diagnosis but something related to the wheel bearings themselves. Keep coming back to the smell of burning brakes, though. However, it's not unheard of for more than one thing to fail simultaneously. Especially on a truck that's over 20 yrs old.

Gerrit

 

[RedMF40]

It is a hub and bearing all in one unit. Lastone I bought for a 99 Ford 3/4 diesel 4x4 was in the 400.00 range and had to order it. Dealer item only at that time about 20 years ago now.[/quote]

I know there's some time involved in that job but the parts shouldn't be too horrible bad. Pretty sure my truck has the regular cone-type bearings you repack or replace. It's only RWD while the one you worked on was 4X4 and the front hubs and bearings are replaced as you described. Rock Auto has both styles.

Gerrit

 

[Blackhole49]

On my 98 F150, when the front wheel bearings went bad, the anti-lock/brake light stayed on. No
sticking break issues. If it were mine, I would fully retract the piston in the caliper and see if
that helps. If the problem re-occurs, replace the caliper.

 

[DoubleO7]

(reply to post at 20:52:29 07/23/23)

So you only replaced the hose?
Was the inner pad and inner surface side of rotor the same wear as the outer side?

When caliper was loose, did you de-rust and put some never seize/grease on the sliding surface and the pins that allow the caliper to float on the rotor in and out?

I had a front where the pins were rusted in solid and only the inner pad was doing any braking.

 

[bud from bc]

That's how mine started i just took apart caliper lubed and thought it was fixed. Worked for a month seized up after heavy brake application. It's giving you a warning. Replace caliper and hose

 

[showcrop]

At least check for pulling to one side. take down the road and stand on the brakes to see if it stops straight. The bearing grease that it was slinging used to lube the wheel bearings. It isn't now.

 

[RedMF40]

Sorry, had to drop out of the discussion for a bit. Got a stomach virus and that put everything else on the back burner. Getting back to normal now. Will post any progress or findings, thanks for the comments.

Gerrit